mob
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Posts posted by mob
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well its 4 days later and i have yet to recieve an email from him (emailed twice) and left a message on his phone number listed thru gunbroker . dont know if the guy sent the money or not. first email was right after the auction outlining what was owed and everything, and then sent an email about a day or two ago asking if he got the first email. and no response to either, even checked my spam folder of aol just in case it might of went there. so i have no idea of this guy has sent payment or not. and i checked his gunbroker rep, and shows he bought a shotgun barrel the 13th of this month so i know hes active buyer.
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four minutes left as of this message
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only two days left, sucks its only at 900 , eh oh well
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well guys, its on gunbroker
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that would be a big negative good buddy, NOT a street sweeper, heres a hint, that silver thing you see laying next to it, thats the round for it
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so back on subject, can a few give me a high/ low / what it would sell at pricing, ive got one unnamed possible buyer on here but dont have a price to give him , or that if he does not buy it i would put it on gunbroker and here
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and see, ya have it wrong, i have
this
this
and this
to raise some hell
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i have the stock foreend that comes with it, i was originally going to put the, i think omega front end on it, but they wanted like $200 for the rail and then i guess they stopped making it or it was as available as the infamous Shrike for AR15s
STOCK FOREEND IS INSTALLED ON IT (sorry to yell, just so anyone scanning can see the note) , just dont have any pics of it since i put it back on, these pics were right after the conversion
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here are pics
and no your not dreaming, deep in my heart i feel its time to thin out one or two to get another toy(dont worry its not a fire sale, ive got 5 other 12ga shotguns), i mean for godsakes i own 18 rifles and at least 10 pistols that are in the safe. and im going to buy more guns in my future, but its like i just bought an older jetski to go out with friends since they have a Tige wakeboat, and having this little chopper will allow me to work with metal again and have a conversation piece, i mean im only 24, i only got 5-10 years left before i gotta settle down and have kids. might as well raise hell for a few more years before the hairline starts to head south
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just became gold
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let me find the link to contribute and i will
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sorry, didnt know, dont use the site much, my appologies, not trying to fish for buyers at all
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well gents, im selling some of my toys to buy other toys, specifically a mini-chopper http://www.kikker5150.com/indexb.html , something small and fun. below is right now what i have into it is:
the shotgun itself (19" threaded barrel, non sight rib)
ACE Skeleton Stock
ACE Folder Mechanism
ACE "cut the tang" Flushmount block
TAPCO SAW grip
TAPCO Single Hook G2 Trigger, Hammer and Disconnect
Bolt Catch still installed and functional
Stock Mag only
plus what it took me to get converted and refinished. it is not a tromix conversion
what should i advertise this at, if ya can give me a High/Low/Will sell at id appreciate it.
this is a pic from when i got finished converting it but did not have the stock front end back on it
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yeah the sad part is that it took me longer to work all of the trigger guard stuff than it did to convert the rest of the rifle
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well yall, i thought i would post my conversion and get some input on it. with the info that i found here and all, i dove in and converted it from the rifle to the PG setup. at first i was going to send it off to get converted but then once i got into it, it didnt seem so hard, at least till i got to the end.
pretty much the tapco SAW grip and G2 FCG and ACE folder, stock and internal cut tang block.
i welded and ground down the old holes in of where the old pins were
now where it gets interesting is that i got dremel happy with my stock trigger guard cause i was trying to get to the center rivet, so at one point i said F it and just cut the TG into pieces, and so began the saga of fabricating a trigger guard. i remember to save the selector plate from the original pieces so i was good on that. the first one that i made was from extra 16 ga steel that i had laying around (the same thickness as the other trigger guard FYI . well got that all folded out and all and it didnt work out so well due to the grain pattern of the metal. so i had to goto plan b and used a trigger guard from a Romy G kit, i cut out the lever and spring and ears and the such and filed and set the trigger guard to sit as you see (without any bending, sat real well, almost stock like) , mig welded it up and filed it smooth as much as i could. and on the bright side it uses only a front and rear trigger guard rivet like the original. i even went as far as to oil temper the TG like they might of in the factory(or maybe i was overthinking stuff)
next it went to the paint area, and since i had autobody experience i knew it was going to come out good. at first i went with the BBQ paint that some people recomended on here. well i sprayed it in thin coats, and it ended coming off of the TG and so i got pissed and used industrial laquer thinner and too the reciever and barrel back down to bare paint, im talking even the factory paint came off and the barrel had some purple-ish reside come off, i then proceeded to red/brown scotchbrite pad scuff the hell out of all the reciever and barrel areas. i then proceeded to black primer acid etch the reciever and barrel in light coats, i then let it flash for an hour( autobody term for letting the VOCs/ fumes release themselves for an hour to eliminate any possible paint interactions). i then used a paint that was meant for the trim of a car, so that i got that eggshell finish that a lot of people are looking for(ie not flat and but not shiney)
you know its a good teardown when you slice the side of your thumb with a drill bit and you snap a HF metal punch in half
also, a word of caution to the new guys converting, careful using a press. apparently on the 25 ton press that my buddy had, i somehow managed to egg the hole out and have the bottom of the rivet in one location and the head of the rivet in another location on the rear rivet. and somehow managed to tear part of the trigger guard. i had to cut the rivet out and reweld and redrill the hole and everything, it came out stock looking, but if i had taken the time on the second one and not gorilla handled it (i figured hey, one or two more pulls of the jack handle ought to secure the rivet more, nope, it was distorting it)
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well i used a rough cut and a finish cut flat file on the block, took off a 1/16 and it fit in there with no freeplay, got my stock installed and everything and my conversion done, looks nice as hell. funny thing is that my refinish on this whole gun cost me maybe $6 but came out looking like i duracoated it black, but i took the reciever down to bare metal (including the finish that came from it factory) using laquer thinner and scotchbrite pad.
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well hell i have had to hand fit and file most everything else on this gun, aint no harm in the adapter block.
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hi
been lurking here and bought a saiga a few weeks ago and with the help of hte knowledge here, i am converting my saiga to side folder and 922r compliant and even did a trigger guard that i have not even seen on here before, well in another thread i will go over what i did and all for my conversion and the such
well today my SAW grip came from JMacken (great guy to deal with) and my "cut the tang" block from ACE ltd/riflestocks/J&T also came today, so i was happy as all hell to get this gun back together. well i go to install the block and it stops, i look, and its hitting the round ears of the rear trunion and will not move forward at all, i would say its hitting by like a 1/16" or an 1/8" and could probably be fixed by using a finishing file to the adapter block to trim that section down, but is this something that is normal or what should i do?
thanks
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i still say 2 and 5 are the pins that need to be knocked out, 3 looks like its the crosspin retainer for the valve selection pin
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some pics of my conversion (having to do quick reply to get posts, cause when i try new thread it shuts down IE, will have seperate thread later
got the trigger guard made up and welded up today and ground down and ready for paint, so far i have not seen it done on the saiga forums yet but its an innovated different way. hopefully tomorrow i can get the trigger guard rivets in. and then sometime next week my ACE folder block should be in.
yall would be proud of me, even went and oil tempered the steel after i was done welding it. ive learned a few things from a 75 year old autobody guy who still works 12 hours every day and has been in the business since the 50s
some pics from my phone, should have better ones tomorrow
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sorry to bring up an old thread but its interesting info and i was lucky enough to find a barely fired safe queen of a mak90 for $300 from a friend of mine
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oh i know that feeling, snapped one of the smaller HF punches driving out the rivets out of the reciever, sucked really bad
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now ya have, looks like to me pins 2 and 5, looks like 1 is not there and 3 is the crosspin that holds in the gas selector plunger
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possible go thru and sand and polish the surfaces(or as i look at it, its like water and a fluid path as far as smoothness) . as far as the extractor, maybe bring down the thickness of the backface of the extractor so that when it slides past the lip, since there is less material there to have to move past the lip to engage the lip, the better chance of hooking it.
whats my converted saiga 12 worth
in Saiga-12
Posted
it sold for 900, i wanted 1100 for it, and i never said i wanted 1400 for it