Gunfixr
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Posts posted by Gunfixr
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That mount does clear the cover. It removes and goes back just like before the mod. It's just tighter now. The bottom of the mount has a radius bottom taper to clear.
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I just got my Draco Friday. I will be modding it rather soon. I plan to bullpup it.
I'll definately be posting pics.
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I've done it.
Welded a rail where the rear sight was, and installed an M1Carbine rear sight on the cover. Refitted the cover to eliminate slop. Works well.
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For the record, the Saiga 12 in the "Flawless" 100 round dump video has 4 ports @ .093". It has had a very in-depth friction reduction that is far beyond what I have seen commercially available. It is an incredibly smooth machine. Still, it will only run light loads 100% on the wide open setting. The weapon is not overgassed. If I were running Winchester Universal 100 rounds out of 100 with no failures on setting one, I might be concerned that the weapon is getting more gas than necessary when firing high base loads. The "Flawless" S12 has seen slugs and buck with no ill effects. Now, of course, the regulator is always on setting one for all loads unless it just won't run on that setting, so I have no fear of damaging my AK100 rear block, firing pin, or bolt. I do not take video of it running heavy loads because it is no big inspiring deal to fire expensive buckshot or slugs as seen in other's videos. I would love to see some other guys here show 100% reliability with some 100 round low base drum dump videos, but these weapons weren't designed to function with light loads or drums, so why bother making them run well with either, right? Why bother doing anything to attempt to increase the reliability of the weapon if all you are going to do is fire slugs and buck with stick mags, right? Yeah, why bother? Geez....
Well, for the record, I have not seen the "flawless" video, nor do I really care to. A 100rd drum dump is not impressive to me, as I have no doubt the guns I built will do it easily. Hell, the select fire gun I did last year did much more than that, with bulk pack ammo, no cleaning. I am sure that if the fellow I built it for was having reliability problems, I would've heard from him by now. Several customers shoot much more than I, and do not clean until it stops, and they're not sure when the last time they cleaned was.
Depending on the barrel length past the gas block, and its overall length, 4 ports at .093" may just be too much.
Actually, I do believe the Russians have a drum, so I'm sure it was made to run them. They built the gun to run the ammo they make, which probably does not include light loads. We modify the guns to run our ammo, which does include light loads.
Will overgassing the gun beat it up? I am certain that it will, given time.
Will overgassing the gun break it? I do not know, only time will tell. I am sure it will cause excessive wear on many of the parts, which, considering the parts availability here in the US, doesn't seem like the thing to do. Fortunately, enough people do overgas the guns that we will know soon enough without me having to do one just to see.
Does overgassing make it run better? Depends on your definition of "better". They sure run rougher. They sure kick a lot more. For folks who want to shoot a lot, that's not what they want to hear.
One of the biggest selling points of the high end tube feds is not only their reliability, but how smooth and fast they shoot. An overgassed S12 will run good, but it beats itself and you up, slowing down your hit speed.
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Well, that one took 3 days to fit. The second one I did took 1 day. That's not counting the time to do the cover mods and other receiver mods to clear it and make it all work, just the part of getting the track on and the handle moving in it smoothly.
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Pauly's right, you can definately overgas any gas operated gun.
If the OPs gun will run birdshot on the #1 setting, it is overgassed. The crap getting into the gas block is one of two things, or a combination of those two things.
The ports are way too large, which is indicated by it running birdshot on setting #1, but doesn't always cause this clogging.
The ports are drilled at the wrong angle, and/or have burrs on the exit hole into the bore. Either one of these conditions causes plastic to be shaved off as the wad goes by, and the pressure pushes it into the gas chamber. Some will come off anyway, but burrs or incorrect angles of the holes will increase it dramatically.
If they are truly 5/64th in diameter, that is about .077" which would be correct, and it should not be over gassed. Be sure of this measurement. If whomever drilled these holes did it incorrectly, there was very likely a burr on the top as well, which was pushed over the hole as the gas block was pressed on, this will not allow a true hole-sized pin to enter the hole, and make it seem smaller than it is. Also, "fused" in plastic could be making the hole seem smaller.
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It'll run without any serious mods, but you may want a 4th port, depending on the size of the 3 it has now. My personal gun has the barrel ending at 18" with a flash hider that's about 3" past the bore's muzzle. It does have a modified choke tube permanently installed. It has 4 .076" or so ports, and will run anything.
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I don't think any of the AK front sights are going to be tall enough, as most are designed to work with a sight in the original rear dovetail.
The HK sight plane sits probably 1/2" to 5/8" off the dust cover, while the original sight plane is about 1/4" to 3/8" off the dust cover.
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Man Pauly, those sure are some pretty bolt carriers.
Personally, I've done more vertical charging handles than left side ones. The left side ones do need the rail removed, or you'll rape your hand on it racking the bolt. Also, I put the vertical ones up tight to the carrier, and only sticking up about 3/4" above the dust cover. The higher it goes, and the further out it is, the thicker and heavier it must be to be durable. I do knurl mine, unless the customer wants it smooth. I haven't seen any difference in reliability from the weight, although I make them pretty light.
As for the closed side left handle, that is an FAL handle mounted to the receiver. The scope rail must be removed to make room for its track. As I'm not going to destroy a receiver to get the track, they are custom made. They take a whole day of fitting to get right, because of the welding, and how imperfect the receivers are to begin with.
Anyway, here's a couple of pics:
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Nate "gunfixr" Apon picking up the s12 from your shop I fired apx 100rds of low power rounds and 00buck. I did not have a single problem with any function and the LRBO worked great. I'll keep you posted after I get time to shoot it again. Thanks for the great work you did for me. Chris
Anytime, I'm glad to hear it's running well. Keep me posted on how that LRBHO is working.
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I put the BHO in the full auto gun, and it gave no problems, even with heavy buckshot and 3" shells.
I do put a small notch in the spring hook to keep the spring seated.
Another thing that may be overlooked is that the cutout on the bottom, where it sits just over the trigger pin isn't deep enough. The BHO sits on the trigger pin, not the bottom of the receiver. When a G2 fcg is installed, the sleeve on the trigger pin makes it sit even higher, which is closer to engaging the bolt carrier.
I always cut this section deeper, so that the BHO bottoms out in the receiver without touching the trigger pin.
As a side note, I also notch out the back, so that the safety can be sneaked in around it. What may be another plus is that these 2 operations will make the rear end of the part slightly lighter, so it would "bounce" less under recoil.
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Delivered both last week, we'll see soon enough.
Got another to do this week or next.
On another note, I think I've figured out a way to make CGWs one work much easier. I just need to try it on one. It requires a serious modification of the BHO, but if I'm right, it would make fitting it much easier, and allow the shells to come up all the way to the mags feedlips, as originally designed. This would improve the reliability greatly.
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I did one. Took the whole A2 rear sight, cut the threaded vertical adjustment post off the bottom, cut dovetail edges front and rear, and then dovetailed it into a custom base that was welded onto the dust cover.
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Pauly covered it very well.
Always do your research. It's kind of like the old saying "measure twice and cut once", except gun parts are more expensive than boards, usually.
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Well, I got 2 installed this week, in amongst the other things to be done.
The only problem is that it's tough not to have the bolt drop and load the first round when inserting a 20rd drum. The 12rd drums are a bit easier, but not much.
I could beef up its spring, but I don't want it to start locking the bolt with a round left in the mag.
Of course, since the factory manual BHO is still in the gun, and just a tad further back, the bolt could be pulled back to it, and then it wouldn't matter.
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Well, I ran out of room to store it all at the house.
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You'd probably cry if your knew how much I got it for.
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I have a Winchester 1887 lever action 10ga.
Since it was made in the mid 1890s, it's blackpowder only. I load my own for it.
It is quite a bit of fun to shoot, though.
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Last year at NC Recon, a 2 day 3-gun match, I took a FA S12 with a 13" barrel, which had one of Cobras choke adapters on it, with a modified choke tube. One of the stages was 6 shots with slugs at a 5 gal bucket set out at 80 or 90 yds.
3 shots standing, freehand, I got 1 hit.
2 shots kneeling, supported, I got 1 hit.
1 shot prone, I got 1 hit.
Sights were AK front, bent metal tab rear on the cover.
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I give a customer his gun back next week with one of mine in it.
Time will tell how it fares.
Just out of curiosity, does yours require mag mods and what mags will it work with? Will it work with a mag well?
Mag mods? Mostly no. It does make contact with the AGP mag, and slightly with the Surefire mag. Just deepening the cutout on the back in between the feedlips a small amount would fix that. It clears everything else.
So far, I've tried it with the factory 5rd, the Surefire mags (8rd and 10rd), the AGP 10rd, the Promag 12rd drum, and Md Arms 20rd drum.
I don't see why it wouldn't work with a magwell.
Best Paint for Conversion?
in Saiga-12
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If there is, I haven't seen it yet. That stuff is hard. It's also a real PITA to work with. I quit messing with it, and went back to Moly Resin. That holds up real well, actually.
I don't even do Duracoat anymore, unless someone wants a color Norrells doesn't have.