Gunfixr
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Posts posted by Gunfixr
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Wow.
Just goes to show that with enough vodka, anything is possible.
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All of the plug facing nubs are to keep a small standoff from the factory plug. It's why the factory plug has a small nub in its center, and these aftermarket plugs maintain it.
The rear facing nubs increase the puck stroke to the bolt carrier.
There is no comparison between the two, as they serve totally different purposes.
Vortexing the gases outward would be detrimental, as that would direct the gases to the outer edge, encouraging it to bypass around the puck. That is why those mentioned pucks have the lip around the outer edge, to keep the gases centered.
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Funny thing is you probably don't even know why King Armory and ETac and Chaos even had their flush center nubs.
The reason is different than the rear facing extended nub, so that comparison is like apples to oranges.
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The ETac one doesn't have a section protruding out the back, it's nub is flush with the front. Greg's protruded, and, interestingly enough, sod oes yours. You just made it moveable, so you could call it different.
I've seen this before.
You and I both know it.
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Hmmm, I guess maybe I shouldn't feel so bad now.
At least you guys are equal opportunity idea thieves.
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I guess you or someone removed the picture.
I can only speak for myself. I try not to have much, if any gap between the stock and receiver, but with some stocks a gap is unavoidable. Usually, in the beginning, the specifics of what stock will be used is determined, so the customer knows what stock will be on the weapon when he gets it back.
As for the other post, I won't pass "shitty' work. If I can't get it to satisfaction, I'll say so. All conversions are test fired before they leave.
If I wouldn't be happy with the work on my personal guns, then I won't be happy with it on someone elses gun.
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You guys are missing something here that is rather important.
What the OP wanted was clarification that ATF wouldn't consider this mod an SBR. If he had planned to install some sort of buttplate or pad to the rear end, that's exactly what it would be, a bullpup SBR.
He got essentially the same thing, but without the SBR fees/hassles. You can shoot it from the shoulder, sort of. It won't be real comfortable, but doable for close range. Or, the center of the chest thing can be done with it. Plus, as he mentioned, it's balance is vastly improved for one-handed shooting.
It's kinda like the AR pistols. It's perfectly legal to have them with an M4 length buffer tube, so long as it doesn't have the lug along the bottom to work with a stock. It's even legal to have a foam pad tube on the buffer. Folks have these and tuck them in the armpit area and get good shots out to about 100yds or so with practice. Again, it's like an SBR, but without the fees/hassles.
There's an important section in the definition of both a rifle and an SBR. That is that they are designed to be fired from the shoulder. This means a buttstock, or a piece on the rear end that is designed to fit to the shoulder to steady the firing of the weapon.
His build doesn't have that, only a plain receiver end.
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Interesting.
I just tweak the spring leg out some, so that it is actually trying to pull out against the side of the trigger, and it stays put.
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I hope you really did not use glass beads to blast it. If so, the Duracoat probably won't stay on anyway.
Need to use a blasting media, like aluminum oxide or someting similar.
Hell, play sand will probably work if nothing else.
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What Jack has said is spot on, as I go over the same thing, and have also welded up the bump on the barrel hood.
While I polish the extractor, I don't reprofile it or change the spring. I do recut the groove in the barrel some. Some guns are so far off that the bolt has to be forced by the bump on the barrel to get behind the trunnion lugs, it's amazing they work at all. Usually, 1/2" off lockup it will go into battery on mine as well, most times less distance than that. Often, you can ease the bolt up until it touches the cam, and when you take your hand off, the recoil spring will close it, or will when you turn the muzzle down.
I do not, however, install lighter recoil springs unless it's specifically what the customer wants.
As for reprofiling the bottom of the bolt carrier, there are several ways to do it, and I suppose we each have decided what we think is best. Factory shape is more than likely just ease of manufacture. It's cut high enough to ensure that the hammer is pushed down far enough to get positively caught under the disconnector. The instant it goes past, the disconnector snaps over the hammer and holds it. How long it's held there is irrelevant, because if the disconnector doesn't grab it immediately, it won't at all. Then, each end is radiused, and it's done.
Some probably lengthen the rear radius, to make the hammer push easier, so that the recoil stroke can more easily achieve full travel. Some probably lengthen the front, so that the carrier rides more easily forward, over the hammer. Some undoubtedly do both, meeting in the middle, to try to ease both directions of travel.
For myself, I cut a long shallow taper from the front of the bottom of the carrier back until approximately 1/8" or so of flat is left. This eases the forward travel of the bolt under the recoil spring. The reason for this is that with an adjustable gas system, you can tailor the recoil push pretty much however you want, using the plug to turn it down after setting it to run on low brass ammo. The recoil spring only has so much power available, so it must always work to feed the rounds, whether it is a 5rd mag or a 20rd drum. Less resistance on the forward stroke means a harder, faster "running start" before the bolt contacts the rear of the cartridge and must push it out of the magazine.
Besides, the bolt carrier gets a small "running start" going rearward, as the first 1/4" to 3/8" of rearward travel is rotating the bolt out of lock, and the bolt shank then reaches flush with the back of the bolt carrier, and only then does the hammer meet the bolt carrier.
I do recontour the bottom of the bolt as well, for smoother feeding, and easier insertion of a loaded mag under the closed bolt. Also, taking some off the bottom of the bolt lessens the bolt/hammer override at the rearward end of the recoil stroke.
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I think we have a regular hunting type Turkish shotgun or two in the shop. I'll look next week, and get some pics if so. The innards of the 1919, ie., the gas system and barrel and bolt, look like one for sure.
I'm not suggesting this is a bad thing, as it would mean thay are using a system that they have been marketing for a number of years already, and know it works. Customers already like the regular shotguns.
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We've had several emails from Interstate Arms over the past week or so, starting with one from them stating that S12s were approved for import, and that the first shipment should be available for sale in about 30 days, give or take of course.
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.......You ban fanatics, read that a few times until it sinks in.
That's pretty funny right there.
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Sweet.
Is it just me or does the whole gun look kinda curved? It's just obvious to me since the AR rifle is straight.
I need one of these to play with.
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Actually, the barrel, op-rod system and bolt look like your basic sporting Turkish shotgun, with a different outer shell and fcg.
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Well, barring a real ATF letter, personally I'd just assume 15 parts.
CNC a hammer, trigger, and disconnect, add a US made hicap mag, and you'd be 1 part to the good.
If you put the factory mag in you're 2 parts short, but not hicap, so it doesn't matter.
Seems easiest to me.
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Well, test fired it, using low brass Winchester game loads in a full 5rd, 8rd Surefire, 10rd AGP, 12rd Promag drum, and 20rd MDArms drum. I started by loading the 5rd mag under the closed bolt, slingshotting the bolt back and firing it empty, then going to the next larger mag.
No problems, as I kind of expected. It's not even hardened yet.
I did recut the engagement end, hoping to eliminate the autoloading, and it did keep it from dropping w/the 10rd AGP mag. I think I may put a stronger spring under it, but cannot go too heavy or it'll lock open before the last round is gone. I can recut it again, and put an interlocking contour on the bolt, so that it cannot autoload.
However, the top round of a fully loaded MDArms drum cannot be pushed down far enough to not drop the bolt. The 12rd Promag drum allows further movement, but I still think the bolt will drop a lot of the time.
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Well, the auto closing was an accident, not something I was actually looking for. I sent an email last night to the owner of the gun that it's fitted to, and he's already said I could eliminate the auto closing and he'd be quite happy.
Yes, slingshotting the bolt releases it. Really, the bolt is close enough to the mag to possibly cause occaisonal first round feed problems anyway, whether it auto closes or is manually dropped via a lever or button.
Because of the design, there really isn't a good way to put a manual release on it. Other things are in the way.
As for not grooving the bolt, that just isn't doable without redesigning how it works. The one thing it has in common with the Cadiz version is that it goes out over the magazine and the rounds deactivate it as they come up. Because of the height of the round in relation to the bottom of the bolt, if the bolt isn't grooved, it will push down the "hawks beak" and the round with it, keeping the gun from feeding. The groove isn't really critical, and can easily be cut with a Dremel. It's location and the fact that it is straight through makes it easier than the Cadiz one. The cut to the ejector block is almost the same.
It clears all the mags listed, but just touches the AGP mag. It could be notched just a bit, but works as is.
Drums may always auto close, simply because they are pretty much bottomed out when full, and the amount of pressure that is required to push the top round down when they get close to full.
The design is quite simple, and will require a bare minimum of fitting once the required cuts are made. I think that if you can do your own conversion, you can do this. No welding is required, just some Dremel work, drilling, tapping.
Unfortunately, it is right in the way of the FA sear, just as Toms is. The only way to get one in an FA gun will be to do something other than going through the ejector block to get activated by the rounds coming up.
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Well, after fighting with the LRBHO for several days, I came to the conclusion that while it can be made to work, the amount of fitting required is prohibitive (for me at least), and the gun will likely be at least somewhat finicky. To that end, I came up with my own LRBHO design.
Since Tom has said that he patented his design, and my own designs hve been copied, I have gone to some length to try to be sure to not infringe on his patent. I searched the online database of the US Patent office for a couple hours, but could not find it. I went by his posts on what he included in his patent. Perhaps he will chime in here. Also, based on what I thought should be different changed it rather significantly from his design anyway.
My required features were to be simple. First, it was not to change how the gun functioned more than minimally, to keep the basic reliability it already has. Two, it was not to require a lot of fitting, or significant modifications to the magazines. Third, it was to only have one major feature: lock the bolt in the open position when the last round had been ejected. Trying to add all kinds of features, such as the ability to externally operate it, or it's automatically disengaging was trying to please everybody, and complicating the design. Really, it's all about an easier, faster reload. Not having to push the top round in with the bottom of the bolt already makes the reload much faster. Since the drums will not go in at all under a closed bolt, they no longer need to be downloaded.
Therefore, there is no provision to externally operate this BHO, nor will there be. As for automatic disengaging, that did happen anyway, to an extent. While seating a fully loaded factory 5rd mag will not drop the bolt, nor will seating a fully loaded 8rd Surefire mag, seating a full 10rd AGP mag will, as will seating a full 12rd Promag drum or a full 20rd MDArms drum. The bolt closes and chambers the first round. However, during one test the bolt didn't quite fully close, with a 20rd drum inserted. I believe this was due to the full drum exerting quite a bit of drag on the bolt and carrier, and the limited amount of "running start" that the bolt had before engaging the round. I may see if I can eliminate the auto-closing entirely, but since the drums don't allow the round to go down any, they may always drop the bolt.
As for feeding, the rounds go all the way up to the magazine feed lips, and so the gun feeds just as it was originally designed to do.
The bolt modifications are about the same, although the slot is in a different place, and slightly shallower, as well as the same depth all the way through. The slot is similar in the ejector block. The factory manual BHO can either be left in place, or removed. It will serve no real purpose. My BHO has nothing to do with the factory BHO, nor does it go back down either side of the receiver.
In hand cycling it works fine. Live fire testing is tomorrow.
At this time there will be no pics, until I determine whether I will even mass market it, patent it, or what.
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Well, I have 3 of them that I modified in 3 different ways, and 2 cut into guns. I can and will weld up the bolt notches.
I already have a design, with one prototype unit. However, I was figuring it out as I made it, and already see improvements to be made. I will make another and test it. It works similarly, always locking the bolt, except when rounds come up from the magazine and deactivate it. However, the relief of the bolt face will be significantly less. I believe it will require much less fitting as well. It does allow the rounds to come up all the way to the magazine feed lips.
However, there will be no way to externally operate the release. The only way to release the bolt will be to grab the handle and move it a bit, just like releasing the factory manual BHO. It may be settable to auto-release, but I won't know that until I'm testing one, and really, I'm not too concerend about having that feature. The reason for this is that with the different sizes and styles of magazines, and the amount of pressure exerted against the feed lips varying as much as it does, as well as some 3-gun matches requiring starting a stage downloaded in an effort to slow down the Saiga guys, getting auto-release set right would be rather difficult. Also, magwells allow the magazine to go straight in, as opposed to rocking in. Thus means that it would be possible for the bolt to be tripped with the rounds nose end still a bit too low to feed, which would cause a jam.
I personally think that for the utmost in reliability, the BHO should be manually released, as that way it cannot release at an inappropiate moment.
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Of course you should stock up on ammo. You should also stock up on food, at least some water with a way to acquire and purify more, and other necessities. You should also be prepared to be self-sufficient should it appear that the problem will be long term, as you cannot store enough for a lifetime.
As for using your gun to take what you need, that won't last long.
"Battlefield pickups" are ok, but don't rely on that being your main supply line. You have to get into a gunfight to even reach that point, and you have to decisively win. They will be burning up their ammo trying to keep from getting killed, while you burn up yours trying to kill them. Also, the noise will bring others, who may be better prepared than you to "decisevely win", and pick up your stuff.
How much ??
I would start with at least 1000rds for each weapon, with 2000rds or more being better for primary defense longarms and primary hunting weapons. In an urban area, higher round counts may be better for primary carry handguns, as a "semi-shtf" could leave everybody moving around somewhat normally, but in a semi-lawless kind of state. For this, something concealable but relatively powerful is good.
Really, there's only 2 times I can think of that you can have too much ammo: when you're swimming, and when you're on fire.
No, I won't show pics of my "stash".
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I gave up on it. While it can work, there are quite a few variables, and way too much fitting required to get it to work. Also, even the pics Tom put up of the one he installed shows the beak portion of the bho sitting so low that the rounds must feed from the beak, not the magazine feed lips.
Personally, I have not found a way to get the bho to allow the rounds to come all the way up to the magazine feed lips, go down far enough to clear the bolt as it passes by, and not bind the rear end of the bolt carrier at the same time. At least one of these things must be sacrificed. Usually, it is the round feed height. The biggest problem here is that the pivot point is the hammer pin. This leaves the section forward of the pivot point somewhat shorter than the section rearward of the pivot point, which means that the rear end point will always move more than the front end point. The front end actually needs to move more than the rear end does considering what the rear end does versus what the front end does.
While the gun will feed from this lower feed height, it will always be at least a bit more finicky, due to many variations in the guns and magazines, and even the rounds themselves.
Also, to really work the beak portion must be thinner than I personally find acceptable for long term durability.
I have figured out what must be done, and almost have a working prototype.
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I've put a couple on customer guns. Haven't put one on mine. I tend to reuse the original guard, unless someone wants something specific.
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Well, I worked at one of these for several hours this evening, as I have several guns to put these in. So, to that end I started the install on another gun, milling the slot in the ejector block to fit the BHO.
I now have 3 of the BHOs modified, all in different ways. I think I have arrived at one of the reasons for so much difficulty at least.
I have one fitted to where the gun will feed absolutely flawlessly. However, it will never eject the fired rounds. Once you get the beak end up to where the round is allowed to come up to the feed lips of the magazine, as the gun is designed to work, it will not go down far enough to clear the rim of the round that is being pulled from the chamber for ejection.
When the beak end is down far enough so that it will go down and miss the rim of the round being pulled from the chamber, it will not go up far enough to allow the next round to sit against the magazine feed lips. Therefore, the gun is trying to feed rounds from a position that is lower than the original designed feed position. While the gun can be made to feed from this lower cartridge position, it will be more finicky, and will require tweaking to get it to work.
I haven't been able so far to find a setup that allows the best of both.
LRBHO
in Saiga-12
Posted
I give a customer his gun back next week with one of mine in it.
Time will tell how it fares.