Gunfixr
-
Content Count
1,168 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Blogs
Calendar
Store
Posts posted by Gunfixr
-
-
Leo, no problem, we can swap FFLs. I'll talk to the owner, who's name is on the FFL, I work for him. He buys and sells, I fix and customize.
Pics of my personal S12 are in the pics thread, and pics of some of my other work is in the tech section in the Duracoat kit thread.
I custom built both of the FALs, and the short one I custom shortened the gas system and made the stock from scratch, just a few of the things I did to that rifle. I can go into detail if anybody wants.
I'll have to take some closeups of some of the details of my S12 and add them to my pic post.
-
I am not looking to step on any toes here, so I defer to the business members first, but if you cannot find someone here to do it in the time frame you are looking for or for whatever reason cannot strike an agreement, I wil do it for you. I have done both rifles and shotguns. I do work out of an FFL shop.
I am in Virginia.
Viking Kitty Armory has first shot, I only want to hear from you if you guys can't work something out.
-
I wish someone would make a better mag release (something similar) and sell it as the hole catch/tower/trigger guard assembly so we could swap the hole deal during conversion.
You could do that with the rifles, but with the shotguns, the catch housing is part of a casting that is riveted up inside the receiver.
I didn't drill mine and rivet/bolt it, I simply TIG welded mine together.
-
Celebration after annilialation!
The secret of enjoying life is to spend the same amount on for you'r libations as you get older, but drink less of better hooch!
As someone fairly new here myself, I'm not inclined to get into this one, but I certainly have GOBs point here down pat.
I agree that Tombstone is perhaps the best western film IMHO, I watch it regularly.
There's nothing like coming home from a hot day at the range shooting Blackpowder from a bunch of cowboy guns at a CAS match, and AFTER PUTTING THE AMMO AWAY, cranking up Tombstone on the surround system, cracking open a cold one, and putting the guns to the hot water test.
-
I would, and did mine a week ago.
-
I guess it kinda depends on what you want, but Glock 19s are a lot easier to come by right now than S12s.
-
I added an AK front sight, took the rib off, and used the original rear as a housing for a ghost ring rear sight.
It works, but slugs at 100 yds are grouping kinda large, so I made a new rear sight completely from scratch. It has a ghost ring type hole with a U-notched blade directly in front of it. When you look through the hole, it looks like a half moon with the flat side down, and the flat side having a U-notch in the middle of it. This way the notch can be used for slug shooting at distance, and the half moon hole can be used like a ghost ring for shot. This was dreamed up as a direct result of needing to shoot slugs at 80 or so yds. and then shot shells at 15 yds. in 3-gun matches.
I just got it on the rifle 3 days ago, so I haven't actually shot with it yet, but I like the way it looks so far.
PS: The dovetail is just under 3/8", I'm sure something metric, but I just used inch measurements as I was merely duplicating it when I made my sight.
About .370 wide at the bottom with the dovetail being about .08 tall.
Actually, most inch 3/8" dovetails are about .100 tall, so that would make this one wider if it were .100" tall, probably 10mm.
-
I added side loop type hook points at the front of the stock and the rear of the handguard so I can use single point, double point, or three point slings equipped with HK style claw hooks.
-
I did something similar to mine, but I made it myself. It only comes back into the trigger guard on one side, for the trigger finger when fired right handed, the other side simply sticks out a little farther towards the side of the gun to facilitate easier mag loading the old fashoined way. There's a pic in the S12 pic thread, as well as the Duracoat thread here in Tech. I can snap a closeup if you want.
-
I have Duracoated multiple guns, but I use an airbrush that I already owned. I also don't use canned air. You can get a fairly cheap small air compressor for about $50 from Harbor Freight that will more than suffice. My airbrush isn't gravity feed, it vacuum draws from a bottle underneath, and I don't have to thin it at all. I haven't used any of the high heat stuff, but on an AR I did, I cooked the barrel part by running 5 30rd mags through it one after the other at about 1 shot per second intervals. The barrel turned brown. The handguards were too hot to touch, so it was quite hot. You do need to wait at least 5 days for assembly, I have assembled in 3 but with no lube and no shooting for at least another 6-8 days after that. Sandblasting works well, but is not required, a good cleaning is required. You can get it to run, but it's a lot harder to do than with regular paint.
Some pics: My first Duracoat job, a Beretta CX4 Storm
An FAL in gray (custom color) and black
My previously mentioned AR
My other FAL
And my Saiga in Stealth Gray
-
Mine was the same way, it could be pushed out, and would walk out partway from firing. I fixed it. I made a new pin with a small rounded rivet type head at one end and a divot drilled into the other end, long enough to rivet the drilled end when installed. It's basically like a rifle mag release pin now. Works great.
-
There wouldn't be any red tape, provided that the Polychoke was permanently attached, and that the overall length of the barrel with the Polychoke attached BUT THE ADJUSTING SLEEVE REMOVED was at least 18". Since the adjusting sleeve is not permanent, it won't count as barrel length. The barrel measurement would be from the breech to the end of the fingers of the choke. It could be argued that the breech end of the barrel for measurement purposes would be at the end of the fingers, or the extension back past the breech, but you would probably have to go to court, and ATF would have to remove the barrel and measure to prove it. It's just easier to measure from the breech.
-
Well, there you go, 'nuff said.
I wasn't saying what I did to mine was required for the gun to function, I'm just one of those guys who can't leave anything alone. It may work just fine, but I WILL find a way to improve on it, even if only a small amount. It's the OCD.
-
First off, what you are noticing is the extractor. Because it is a 12 gauge, I suppose, and the case rim is so large, the bolt doesn't have a recessed breech face like the rifles do. Therefore the extractor sticks out from the breech face so it can grab the rim and hold it. If you ease the bolt carrier to the point where it stops and watch the extractor while you push it shut, you'll see it cam up onto the bevel on the side of the chamber some as the bolt carrier pushes the bolt into final position and it rotates to lock. This is normal, as the extractor will close to a position lower than the shell rim, to be sure to get a positive grip on the shell and extract it.
The only ways to ease this pressure and make the bolt close easier would be to grind back the bevel lead of the extractor, which I wouldn't do, weaken the extractor spring, again something I wouldn't do, or polish the bevel lead of the extractor and perhaps the edge of the chamber where it rubs, if you can get to it. This will probably not do a whole lot, though.
On my personal gun, I polished all edges of the bolt where it cams into lock, and the lug and matching recess in the carrier. Not the whole thing mind you, just where it rides as it cams the bolt to lock and unlock. Be very careful on the rear faces of the locking lugs, as this directly affects headspace. I also polished the grooves in the bolt carrier where it rides on the rails in the receiver. Just removed the high spots, not eliminating all cut marks. The rails themselves can be polished also. I also slightly beveled the end of the extractor point, as it was hitting the edges of the barrel extension some as it closed. You probably won't eliminate the "problem", but it will close with just a bit less pressure. Mine will close itself if let go from about where the bolt carrier contacts the cocked hammer. It feeds and operates fine. High brass shells will eject about 25 to 30 ft. forward and to the right. Low brass shells go about 8 ft.
-
That may be, as they (Centerfire) told me that they get them from Saiga. The one I got from Gilbert's is a real Poly Choke, so marked, and made in the USA. I think it was one nickel more in price.
-
It is the same type of spring, but it is different. The coil wound section has less coils than an AK mag catch spring, so it is not as wide.
-
As far as the Keepshooting mags go, all I see are 5 round mags. I want higher capacity. As far as modding the mags goes, the 5 newer ones were working without mods, I'm just anal about reliability. The 2 first ones had hung up once, but only once. Using them, I believe, would have broken them in without mods. Again, I'm just anal about reliability so I didn't wait for break in. As far as rounding the top edge goes, I did it to ease insertion to make it faster and easier so under the time clock, it wouldn't be an issue.
As I have 7 now, I'm not planning at this time to get any more, as any vest I set up would probably hold 6 with one for the gun. I will probably soon order some of the feed lips and maybe a spring or two just to keep on hand.
-
I ordered one from Centerfire Systems for mine. After getting the runaround from them for two weeks and still no shipped part, I cancelled and ordered it from Gilberts Guns. They shipped it the same day. Same price, too.
-
As mentioned, check the law compliance section for the parts count stuff.
As for why we do the conversions, I imagine there are a few reasons. One is cool factor. It looks more like an AK than a hunting shotgun afterwards and that's just cool looking. Two, is practicality. I find it much more user friendly after conversion. It's much less long and ungainly. For tactical purposes, such as HD or competition, its user-friendliness improvements make it quicker and more efficient.
Third, the antigunners just hate the AK and anything like it. Screw 'em, that's a good reason right there.
Fourth, many of us just can't use anything we buy without finding some way to improve on it.
Fifth, well, some of us will go to just about any length to make what is ours "unique". There's something about meeting your friends at the range, and when he pulls out his Saiga and says "Look, I got one too," you can say " Yeah, but it's not like mine, mine's custom." Kinda like a penis size comparison without having to go to jail for indecent exposure.
-
I only purchased my Saiga 12 a month ago, due to being unsatisfied with my 870 in 3 Gun competition and watching the Saigas dominate the shotgun sections. I wanted one anyway, but this cemented it. When I purchased it, I also bought 2 of the AGP 10 rd mags from the same dealer. I later ordered 5 more of the AGP mags from another dealer off the 'net.
I waited to test fire and sight in the gun until I had finished my modifications to save on ammo consumption, ammo prices being what they are. Details of the mods are in the picture thread. When I test fired it and the mags (I have yet to use the 5 rd that came with it), I noticed that high brass shells were a little tight right at the top as they came up to the feeding position, but the only ones I put high brass shells in at the time were the original 2 that I purchased with the gun. I know which 2 they are because I Duracoated them along with the gun, and I hadn't received the others yet. I didn't Duracoat the insides or the follower. Anyway, there were one or two FTF due to the last round failing to come up through this tight spot. I decided that a little judicious sanding was in order, disassembled these 2 mags one at a time, and using a piece of 220 grit wrapped over the floorplate for a flat sanding block, hit the area in question. To test my progress I would install the follower and just pushing in one or two coils of the spring and holding it flush with my hand, thus leaving approx. half of the spring still outside of the mag, place one to two rounds of the high brass shells that were hanging up and see if the follower would return them to the top past the tight spot to the feeding position. If it would, I stopped sanding as I knew it would work with the additional tension of the rest of the spring installed. When I got to the other 5 mags, I noticed that they really didn't need this sanding, they were easy enough already. I did just hit them lightly as there was some flash from molding just inside about 1/2" down were a molding plug was in the mold.
The dealer I had purchased these 5 from had told me that they had just gotten in a new batch and that AGP was slowing down production. The point here is that clearly, from lot to lot, differences occur in the mags. This could be the molding process itself, or the forming of the feed lips, as the tight spot is under these and could be squeezing pressure of the spring steel. It is also possible that AGP is making small adjustments to the mags from lot to lot to improve them. I have a bunch of entirely polymer (except the spring) mags for my AR as well, and they have come from a couple different lots. These, too, have small differences, although they don't affect function. As part of my mods to the gun, I squared the rear corners of the magwell as the mags were hitting there, and broke the sharp edges of the magwell where the mags go in, both to make it easier to insert them and to keep the steel receiver from wearing on the mags too quickly. I also beveled the top edges of the mag itself at the front corner and the sides where it would hit to make insertion easier.
Obvoiusly, I haven't had my AGP mags long enough or used them enough to have any major problems, but so far I am happy with them.
This is my observation, take from it what you will.
-
Well, hopefully I'll see you there. I do, actually, have it sighted at 100 yds with 1 oz. slugs.
But they don't do the 80 yd thing every month, so they might or might not have it this month. If so, I'm about as ready as I can be.
-
You know, Topmaul, the stage will be different next time. Are you coming again for Feb 23?
I'll be there, trying out my new Saiga 12.
-
I did cut some clearance on my BHO to clear the sleeve on the trigger pin, as ti didn't go all the way down, and filed down the safety tab to get it to clear both the BHO and the back of the disconnector. Now it just has a skinny tab that reaches down to the back of the trigger and blocks it. FYI, it had to be welded up longer anyway, as the trigger had so much slop in safe that it would almost fire. The Saiga rifle I converted was the same way.
Would like to convert but cant find anyone
in Saiga-12
Posted · Edited by Gunfixr
Never mind.