Gunfixr
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Posts posted by Gunfixr
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It's supposed to be like that. Sometimes though, the safety goes up behind the cover instead of meeting it, and is really too high. Then, the cover can be bent in just a bit there to catch the safety in the right spot.
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No, it works just like on the FAL. It just sits there when the gun is firing. It's actually an FAL handle.
In fact, I have one in the shop now to get this done, but with the folding handle.
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I don't know about those, the cover is kinda flimsy for that I think.
How about this:
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I haven't noticed a loss. However, I "fit" the cover better than factory when I install HK sights, or any sights on the cover.
The main thing is that the rear sight on the cover has much less weight and mass than a scope with mounts do. This will have a lot to do with flexing the cover around during recoil, and it keeping zero.
I actually have the rear sight on the dust cover of my AK rifle, and it also works fine.
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Like BobAsh has said, no plug will give the gun more gas than the factory plug. Only so much will come through the ports, and last so long depending on barrel length and where the ports are in relation to the muzzle.
All the various plugs do is close off part of the gas, let it all through, or bleed off some. The shape of the puck end will have some effect on how it flows to the puck, even though it cannot bring more to the puck than the ports will allow through. This channeling can improve function, but only to the limit of the gas amount. If the gun does not have enough gas flow (undegassed), then no plug will make up for that. I said all that years ago, nothing has changed.
Also, as BobAsh said, the bleed port at the back of the gas block has nothing to do with function. During normal cycling, the puck moves rearward, pushing the bolt carrier, until it is bottomed out at the far end of the gas block. The bleed port simply allows any gas escaping past the puck to flow out, as well as ensuring that there is no back pressure building behind the puck as it travels rearward, since the carrier piston head blocks most of the hole it travels through.
As for the ETAC plug, while the "spinning" action is possible, I doubt it happens much, if at all. The reason is simple. The puck travels less than 1/2" longitudinally during function. That's just not enough for any appreciable spinning motion to happen. However, it does give more crud room, which doesn't hurt. The bad part, however, is that it makes for a slightly larger gas chamber. The gas chamber is the area between the plug and the puck. This space must be filled with the expanding gases before puck movement starts. Since there will only be so much expanding gases available, too much chamber will effectively undergas the gun. Since the rotational cuts in the sides of the ETAC puck go to the front, all of that area must be filled as it becomes part of the gas chamber. A flat faced puck reduces the gas chamber. A smaller gas chamber can make a barely undergassed gun run, as less gas is then required to move the puck. I made an experimental gas puck with a chamber in its face to collect crud, and it shut down an otherwise working gun, even though it was tighter in the gas block, having a better seal.
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None of the gas plugs count as a 922r part. It's the puck that counts.
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Anybody remember when Mike Davidson unloaded all those Izzy 1919A4 kits? Well, I got one, and finally got it finished.
I built the gun, changed the rear grip to spade grips I also built, built a tripod, and a linker to make belts with.
Anyway, on to the pics.
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You need these:
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We're no longer a paid business member anymore. I was paying out of pocket, and my pocket has just been too shallow lately, so I had to stop.
I'm still working, and doing all the same things as before, although right now, I'm out, probably for the next couple weeks at least.
Had an endoscopy last week, and a biopsy nicked a vein down near my stomach, and caused internal bleeding. I almost bled out, puking up between 2-3 liters of blood in just a few hours. I'm home, but just taking a leak leaves me exhausted and heart pounding, so I don't know exactly how long it'll be before I'm back at work.
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Usually, when I get done, it'll close up on its own, w/o the hammer pushing on it, if the muzzle is pointed mostly downward.
If it doesn't, but will close on it's own with the bolt released from about 1 inch back, I'm still happy.
I do not weaken any springs.
To me, all firearms are potentially battle implements, and may be needed for personal defense. Therefore, the most reliability with the widest range of ammunition, specifically the more powerful loads, is of first importance. So, with that in mind, I don't build "competition only" guns unless specifically requested.
I can usually get "competition only" guns to run equally as well with the hot stuff as with the weak stuff.
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I just did that for a customer, welded the Tromix skull handle on horizontally on the left.
Don't know yet how it will hold up, but I'm not expecting any issues, or I wouldn't have done it to begin with.
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Part of my conversions is reworking the cutout for the extractor in the barrel. Of course, you can't get too crazy in there, or you'll lose case head support, and some shells will bulge out into the notch.
Thebig fixer, though, is the barrel/bolt cam, where it bumps the bolt to start it rotating. Adjusting that will really smooth up closing.
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Least you got to wait until 45 or 50. They started that on me at 40.
And, since I have constant acid reflux, they do the endoscopy also, every 2 yrs, since it turns out I have Barretts disease.
The first time, at 40, I did the colonoscopy and endoscopy, one on a Friday, the other the next Friday.
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Well, hasn't this become a nice clusterfuck.
To Tac 47, I haven't said anything about your autoplug, as I haven't even held one. But I do have one now, and will test it soon. It will either work, or it won't.
I did talk about your regular plug, and I stand behind what I said. However, it can be noted that even most of the cheapest ammo, the types I wasn't too worried about cycling, do work with my plug provided the gun is set up properly.
This is nothing new, as no plug will make up for an undergassed gun. What you did was overgas all of the lower settings, so as long as no high powered ammo is used, your manual plug will be fine.
As for the tool notches versus holes, that was Mikes idea, and it is a good one. We discussed holes versus slots when he wanted to add it to my plug, and slots were agreed on simply because they were more versatile. In fact, I unscrewed the plug from the FA S12 about a month ago with the dust cover, of all things.
As for Mikes plug, I have yet to hold one, I only have the pics and description to go on. If I am wrong in my assessment, Mike will clear it for me, I'm sure. As it may be remembered, my original design had 3 settings. It became 4 with the addition of a "+" and "-" added to "1", which was also Mikes idea, as it accentuated his drum. It appears to me that he has added a "+" and "-" to "2" as well. I don't see it's necessity, but it does allow more precise tweaking. I see he did add an extra set of settings at 180 degrees. That was actually a terrific idea. With one set, you can actually be as much as 1 whole turn off, because of the variances in the gas block threads. This cuts that down to no more than 1/2 turn off.
Also, he added a deeper counterbore. I had done this sometime ago, and he is aware of this. I also have several like this in the field now, my personal gun has one like this. Its purpose is to allow more room for crud and fouling. It does have one drawback, which has kept me from making it standard. On an undergassed gun, specifically one that is right on the verge of not working, the counterbore will keep it from working with weak loads, as it increases the size of the gas expansion chamber a bit.
Oh, and I cancelled my Business Membership a few days ago, so I can say what I want about it.
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I not positive, but I think the CGW ones are either .410 or 20ga. The reason is probably due to these 2 calibers having a basic AK receiver, as opposed to the 12ga's larger receiver.
Why this is, is that AOWs can only be made from a virgin receiver, or a "firearm" that did not come from the factory with a buttstock.
An example: Mossberg Persuader shotguns, which come from the factory with a pistol grip, can be made into AOWs, while the regular 500s cannot, because they come from the factory with a buttstock. This is because the 500, with a buttstock, is classified as a "shotgun", while the Persuader is classified as a "firearm". Handguns, since they don't have a buttstock, can be converted to an AOW and have a forward VFG.
Basically, you cannot convert a rifle or shotgun into an AOW, whereas a "firearm" or handgun can.
Weird, but the way it is.
If an S12 was stripped of its receiver, and rebuilt on a new, as yet unused one, without the provision for a buttstock, it could be an AOW.
But the receiver would have to be made from scratch.
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Well, I've personally run somewhere close to 400-500 rds through it, not counting what the drooling friends have run through it, and it never ceases to be fun.
I'll kinda be glad when I send it out, it's hell on my ammo budget.
We've already decided we're doing one for the shop.
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Wow, just seeing this thread, so I think I missed something. I kind of get the gist of it, though.
The whole idea with gas regulation is to make the gun work with the same amount of force, despite the differences of force being supplied by the ammunition used. Whether or not the plug self-regulates or is regulated by hand, this is the end goal. The factory plug, and various aftermarket plugs achieve this in varying amounts of success.
If all you want is for the gun to work with everything, then just use the max setting on a regular plug, and never change it. It will work with just about all ammo types, until the gun cycles so fast that the mag cannot keep up. Of course, the higher pressure ammo will beat the shit out of the guns' internals, but it will work.
While I haven't watched the video linked here, but what I've been hearing, and what is suggested here, is that the auto plug allows shooting everything. However, without the equipment to actually measure the bolt carrier speed, the ejection distance is the best way we have to tell how hard the gun is cycling. It should be clear to everyone that the further the empty shell goes, the faster and harder the bolt carrier went rearward. It has also been clearly established that by changing the setting on the various plugs, that the ejection distance of a given ammo type can be reduced, even to the point of failure to eject on low-powered ammo.
Anybody who develops a self-regulating plug can say what they want, but ideally, the plug is supposed to save extra wear and tear on the gun itself, ie., release extra pressure to the gun, allowing just enough to reliably operate the gun without beating it up. It basically works like a wastegate on a turbo.
If the auto plug causes higher powered ammo to eject noticeably further, then it's not working, period. You can install the factory plug, my plug, Tony's plug, or Tac 47s plug, set them for low brass and shoot that and high brass ammo through it and get exactly the same results.
FWIW, I have one test auto-plug in the field right now. It's in the hands of the person I know who shoots his S12 the most. I gave it to him for free, and told him to "use and abuse" it. I wante to know how well it worked with whatever he wanted to put through it, and how long it would take to clog up. So far, he tells me that low brass birdshot is working fine, and that high brass, 1oz. 1800fps slugs work fine, with the slug empties landing right next to the low brass empties. He's still adjusting it, turning it down, and it's working even better, as he tells me.
Will I make more? Maybe, but I'm waiting to see what happens with E-Tacs auto plug. I can't make them and sell them for $25, so, if his works, at that price, I won't bother.
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It does look like a small chunk has broken out next to the hole. That is the pin that retains the bolt head to the bolt body. It does have a step at that end of the hole so that the pin will not come through and fall out.
As long as the pin cannot be pushed through from the other end, it's fine.
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Just like Tony said, and you won't need a pistol grip nut, or have to cut a hole for a pistol grip nut.
However, the SAW grip that goes onto the T6 non=conversion stock is different internally than the regular AK SAW grip, so you will need to get a regular AK SAW grip to use.
Of course, this means that if you are planning to sell your T6 stock set to recoup some of your money, it'll be complete.
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For 922r compliance, you need 4 parts, and the drum will only count as 3, so you'll need one more. For a stock, unconverted S12, the easiest thing to do would be install a US made gas puck.
As to the drums, I have both, but don't have a ProMag 20rd drum, only the 12rd. Both work just fine. The MD Arms drum seems built better, and only time will tell how much of a difference it makes. The ProMag drum is a bit looser on the inside dimensions, and is less finicky on ammo. The MD Arms drum, being tighter, doesn't always feed well with some of the foreign-made ammo, as it's made to Metric dimensions, and may be just a bit longer on the OAL.
For general use, I like the compactness of the 12rd drum, but for capacity, the MD Arms drum is hard to beat.
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Nothing will kill the AR anytime in the near future except maybe totally going away from solid projectile weapon systems for something more advanced, which we don't have available at this time.
The military may go away from the AR platform, but not in the immediate future, and le would eventually follow.
The rifle still won't "go away". Remember, the AK design is even older, and out of service, but still in widespread use. So also is the FN FAL, which is also older than the AR.
The HKs run quite dirty, as mentioned, but you don't hear complaints about those, and they work. The AR works also, if set up correctly. Mine ran 1600rds w/o cleaning, mostly Wolf (read dirty as hell), about a third of that lacquer. I oiled it at the beginning of the shooting day, and that's all. Never missed a beat.
The AR isn't "dying" anytime soon.
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I have several of the 12rd drums, and they work in a FA S12 just fine, with either low or high brass ammo.
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I'll have to give Vicki a call. I'm looking for a simple rear to go with an AK front sight, and that's perfect.
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Well, the guns are already gone, and I'm not going to post pics or details until I decide whether I'm going to market it or not.
First, I want to be sure that there won't be any problems with the original developer, as it's not originally my design. He did it about 10yrs ago.
It does require permanent modification to the receiver in front of the magwell, and there's no going back w/o welding once it's done.
However, it works. Just shove the mag straight in, and it locks, and no mods to the mag. I couldn't try it with a drum, as it has sides, which act as a magwell, and prevent a drum from entering. It will work without the sides, you'd just have to "hit the hole" on your own.
Got it off, Need to figure out to get it back on
in Tech Section
Posted
Well, I'm just now seeing this thread, but I'll bite. Also, I did not look at the above linked thread, since I know how the AK system barrels come out and go in.
Really, you should have some specific tooling for removing and reinstalling the barrel. The buggered up muzzle you mention confirms why. Both the barrel pin and the barrel itself are supposed to be a rather tight press fit, so that they do not come out and the barrel does not wobble around under the pressures of firing and cycling. Specific tooling is made to use with a hydraulic press to push out the pin and the barrel without the gun jumping around or damaging the gun or barrel from the pressure on the various unevenly shaped parts. This tooling also is useful because since you're not so concerned with damaging the parts, you can concentrate on them being properly lined up as they are installed.
While I haven't asked around, I imagine that some here do indeed remove the barrel when working on these guns. I do not. I don't have the tooling for that, but my other tooling means I don't have to remove the barrel to get the work done that I need to do.
Honing the barrel/trunnion to where you can push it in by hand or by lightly tapping it in with a hammer will leave it too loose, and the gun will not last long. It may even kill you.