Gunfixr
-
Content Count
1,168 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Blogs
Calendar
Store
Posts posted by Gunfixr
-
-
That's pretty much what I'm doing. I have a prototype, and it works. It's not quite right yet, I need to change the spring tension.
Basically, with he plug I have in the works, you'd install the plug, adjust the spring tension until it works with the lightest loads you intend to shoot, and call it a day. It can be disassembled for cleaning should it be necessary. It will have room for more of the wad trash that seems to build up in some guns. Actually, I have a couple of the current plugs in the hands of customers that have been modified to have more room for this trash, as the trash getting packed into the tight space between the plug and puck, and then getting forced around the puck and into the grooves, makes the whole thing hard to remove for cleaning. This testing is really only to be sure that function isn't affected, and that the extra work is an improvement. I don't want to add machining (meaning cost) if there will be no gain in it. If it proves out, then all plugs will have this change.
I've just been too busy to really work on finishing the new plug. I also have another idea, which is a really radical change, but I cannot mention it now, as I haven't even made a prototype to test. It may not even work, but I think it will.
-
Damn. Sorry Makc, I got 10,000 rs of the stuff, and not one of them is steel core, unless the Romanian was steel core.
-
I always use the stock trigger guard, unless the customer asks for something else. I also reuse the factory safety stop.
-
Yeah, I came up with one and knocked it out in about 3-4 hrs.
Does require modding the mags, pretty much like the Warfield Armory unit. It's a simpler design though, and uses the factory BHO. Got 3 (if I remember right) guns with 'em installed running for about ayear now.
Won't work with the drum, however.
-
With the 4 position plug I got from MD Arms which is a creation of yours correct gunfixr, mine will shoot cheapo 2 3/4 on 2 and hi brass birdshot on +1 setting I am guessing that -1 will handle 3 inch and slugs
I like it
Then in reality, your gun is slightly overgassed. Not a big deal, as you can just turn it down, which is what the plug is for. To be able to have more control over how much gas the gun is getting.
-
Having used both, I actually like the pushbutton one better, but that's just me. It's much easier to open and close, and is actually locked closed as well as open.
-
I am looking at a slight change in the plug that should help with the fouling problem.
I have a couple local competitive shooters who shoot a LOT, and I'm going to modify theirs accordingly. Once this is figured out, it will be implemented to all plugs made.
-
Depends on the gun a lot. Some guns will work with buckshot on setting 2. Depends on the gun and the load.
Ideally, the only 2 3/4" load that will reliably work on setting 1 are slugs. The rest would be setting 2, or for light loads, setting 3. That was the design parameters initially. The guns vary so much now that there are guns that will be different.
-
All the spring loaded cam-type ones I've seen are pretty tight.Maybe a tiny bit of wobble on the pivot pin side. I think it's the fit of the pivot pin.
The push button ones all wobble some, lately they wobble a lot. Totally unacceptable wobble.
I've been tightening them up as I use them.
-
That's pretty cool. I knew someone would do it, since Tony had proven it could be done once.
I had an idea myself to do one, and it was more or less along those lines, except I wasn't going to shorten the gas system. I just haven't had the time.
As Will already knows I'm sure, the problem with a detachable suppressor will be the wad opening inside it. This pretty much requires a center tube, which makes for a lot of machining. The integral model actually turns out easier to make.
Anyway, excellent job.
-
Personally, I just toss it in the mill vise, cut the bottom edge back the correct amount, and grind it the rest of the way in.
With minimal tools, cut the tang off with a Dremel using the cutoff wheel. Mark and cut across the bottom of the receiver approx. .065" to .075" (1/16" is .062"), so using a scale, it would be halfway between 1/16" and 3/32" (.093"). Using a belt sander, or a file, match the bottom to the top, cutting the tang base flush, and the sides flush between the bottom and top. Check it with a straightedge, and across side to side with a square.
Weld the plate on.
-
Once it's done, it's done, and that's that.
I wouldn't worry about it afterward, like you said, they'd just check it and be done.
-
Here ya go: http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=40695
There's a nice closeup of the BHO down near the bottom of the first post.
-
As Bobash said, minumum barrel length is 16" for rifles, and 18" for shotguns. Overall length is 26" for both. I talked with ATF Firearms Technology Branch concerning this measurement recently, and official policy for them is to measure overall length from the extreme ends of the barrel and stock, with any non-permanent muzzle items removed, and a folding/telescoping stock extended to its fullest length. The barrel length is measured by putting a rod that is close to bore diameter (so it can't get sideways and give a false length) down the bore until it hits the closed breech, with the firing pin and/or plunger ejector removed (also to not give a false reading), and measured to the muzzle, after any non-permanent muzzle items have been removed.
However, please be advised that some states have state laws that require a minimum 26" length if the gun can be fired at all. This means that if the gun can be fired with the stock folded/collapsed, then it must measure at least 26" OAL with the stock folded/collapsed.
Also, it's best to leave at least 1/8" of extra barrel length, just to be sure in case yours or others' measuring instruments are off. To leave 1/4" is even better.
It is illegal to cut off the barrel installed in a receiver to attach a permanent muzzle device, unless you are a licensed SOT Manufacturer. While it's true that proving what you did can be difficult, think about this: You cut off the barrel to weld on a muzzle brake. The power goes out before you weld it on. It sits there for hours, or days, and someone breaks in. You call the police. They run across the gun, with a really short barrel, during the investigation of the break-in, that you forgot about in all the excitement. Or perhaps there's a fire, doesn't really matter. ATF is called in to investigate.
You guessed it, you go to jail.
Or, you cut off the barrel, and while setting up your welder, you fall or something falls on you, and you end up in the hospital. Police often show up with an ambulance, and may be called by the paramedics when they find you in the garage working on a gun. ATF gets called.
Again, you go to jail.
It's your risk, you must decide. But it is illegal, and you can be pinched by a seemingly innocent chain of events.
-
When the tang is cut off, the receiver is cut to 3 degrees before welding the plate on.
-
If your gun is pretty close, yes, it should help. If it's way undergassed, then no, it won't.
It makes more efficient use of the gas the system gets, but it cannot make up for not enough.
-
Yep, I knew from your description what it was, a piece of tumbler media.
Now we know that they tumble the parts to deburr.....................and don't bother to check for stuck pieces of media.
-
... I'd like to see a way to disengage the BHO without racking the bolt carrier.
If you look at the lates Saiga I did, the one with the FAL charging handle, the BHO on it can be released without racking the bolt. It has an extension pin on it that protrudes out the side, and it is easily manipulated either up or down by the trigger finger.
To answer the OP, I'm pretty sure I could move it over, I'll look today and see for sure.
-
I was having trouble occaisionally clearing the steel at 3-gun with my last S12, no matter how tight I set the Polychoke using the Federal bulk pack stuff, and got some of the Fiocchi High Velocity birdshot loads. We're limited to no larger than #6 shot. Anyway, the Federal bulk pack stuff is 3 drams under 1 1/8 oz. of shot, and the Fiocchi is 3 3/4 drams under 1 1/4 oz. of shot, both #7 1/2.
I had sold the other S12, but in my current one, the Fiocchi shells work just fine. They do seem a little dirtier, but the feed and cycle just as well as anything else.
Turns out I won't need them, though, as the internal choke tube I put in hits the steel with authority even using the Federal bulk pack shells.
I was having trouble occaisionally clearing the steel at 3-gun with my last S12, no matter how tight I set the Polychoke using the Federal bulk pack stuff, and got some of the Fiocchi High Velocity birdshot loads. We're limited to no larger than #6 shot. Anyway, the Federal bulk pack stuff is 3 drams under 1 1/8 oz. of shot, and the Fiocchi is 3 3/4 drams under 1 1/4 oz. of shot, both #7 1/2.
I had sold the other S12, but in my current one, the Fiocchi shells work just fine. They do seem a little dirtier, but the feed and cycle just as well as anything else.
Turns out I won't need them, though, as the internal choke tube I put in hits the steel with authority even using the Federal bulk pack shells.
-
Mine so far is working great, except that I have the detent spring too light, and heavy shells will occaisionally put the safety on. That's just a matter of tweaking the spring for a little more pressure. I came up with an idea the other night laying in bed waiting for sleep (don't ask) that would be almost as simple, and not take up all the space that this spring takes up. Maybe in the next few months I'll get a chance to modify the safety to the new idea.
The scope rail can be left on for this safety, but the trigger guard is replaced with a wider one, and the receiver is modified. It's not a drop in proposition.
It does work with the SRT trigger.
-
It is possible that the threads are a bit large.
Check to see that the threads in the gas block are clean, as the factory plugs are on the small side of the thread pitch diameter, and carbon will build up in them. Also, there is a groove in the gas block bore where the threads end. This groove will fill up with carbon also. The diameter of the Gunfixr plug is larger than the factory plug, and it will not go through this carbon ring. It must be scraped out first.
-
That's a beautiful job, very impressive. Typical of Tonys work.
I did a similar job for a customer, but his wasn't an SBR, he wanted the flash hider to end at 16". It has HK sights and I closed up the original rear sight base. Unfortunately, he showed up the same day I finished it, early, and it was gone before I got pics taken.
I need to get a camera dedicated for the shop.
-
If it's ejecting, then the gas system is working, as the bolt and carrier must go back past the rear of the magazine in order to eject. Therefore, it has gone back far enough to catch the next round on its way back forward.
"Completely fails to chamber" is kind of vague.
Do you find the bolt closed on an empty chamber?
Does the bolt hit the next round and stop, not dislodging it from the magazine?
Does the bolt push the round partway, but fail to fully seat the round in the chamber?
If so, how far does the round get? Does the nose of the round hit below the chamber, or get partway into the chamber?
If the bolt is closed on an empty chamber, then your mags aren't working, not pushing the rounds up. It could also be that your gun is overgassed, and the mags cannot keep up, but you said you tried all the settings, so that would've found that problem.
The bolt hitting the round and stopping could either be the gun or the mag, or both.
The round hitting below the chamber is probably a feed angle problem, which is usually the mag. Throating the chamber helps with this, but it will only go so far.
-
To answer your question, Slash-5, yes, the same applies as it does with FALs.
ATF gives three acceptable ways of permanently attaching a muzzle device so that it will count as part of the barrel: blind pinning, welding, or solder having a melting temp above 1100 degrees (silver solder).
There used to be some who stated that an interference press-fit was also acceptable, but the letter I have from ATF does not say this.
AR15 MOE Handguards on Saiga12?
in Saiga-12
Posted
I modified a quad rail freefloat handguard for an AR to go on my S12, but not a two-piece set. I think that'd be a PITA.
I'd sure like to see pics also if you get it done.