Gunfixr
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Posts posted by Gunfixr
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Were you thinking of eating it? There are better ways to get your fiber intake.
I wouldn't wrap my steak with it, but I doubt it'll make your nads turn into oatmeal.
The Governments of the world have been using it for decades, I haven't heard of anyone dying from it yet.
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I take a much different approach when I work on something. I don't worry about messing up the more expensive part. I do the job at hand and do it with confidence, because I have done all my research and also learned by hands on experience. I would never perform any kind of mods on someone else's parts or gun, without having done the exact same mods to my own and thoroughly tested it.
Going in and half assing something because you are afraid you might screw something up and not be able to replace it, is the work of a total amateur. These kind of folks should not be working on their own guns, much less anyone else's.
I get asked all the time just how much is too much, to remove from the bolt, after I posted those pictures, and posted about learning the hard way with one of my own. It cost me a bolt to learn that lesson. I took off too much and now it has a hole through the bottom, going into the cavity for the bolt head. I'm not going to tell someone they can do this and do that, and guarantee they will have the same kind of success as if they had just sent me their bolt and carrier and paid for my experience. You can't always just look at pictures of what someone else has done, and duplicate it yourself. With something as critical as this, it's best to send it to someone who has actually done it before. That said, you can always do like I did and learn by experience. It may end up costing you a bolt though, or maybe worse...
+1000
You can't work under a bunch of fear, and get things done, and come up with something new.
Blazing a trail is always scary.
I don't know who said it, but "All great action carries risk".
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XS sells a Big Dot AK front post. You cut the post short, drill and tap a hole in the top of the gas block to match, and just screw the thing in. You could also use one for a standard shotgun barrel, and drill and tap for that, it'll just be a lot smaller diameter post holding it on.
For the rear, almost any pistol sight will do if you weld up the dovetail and cut it to fit. That also allows you to adjust the height.
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You can get an 8" gun to run low-brass ammo, you just gotta be careful about resetting the plug for anything hotter.
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I do some polishing on the hammer, mostly on the lobes where the trigger and disconnector ride. Polishing the face doesn't remove the resistance on the carrier like modding the carrier does.
Also, like Cobra mentioned, it's real easy to either stop the gun from firing, or make it not catch the disconnector anymore by reshaping the hammer face.
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I do machine the carrier some, but it has nothing to do with the shells.
I do it so that the bolt carrier rides back over the hammer with almost no resistance, making chambering much more positive.
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I looked a just cutting it to fit, but the base would be pretty thin afterwards.
As Bob said, they're pretty malleable. Tony might have a die, I don't know. When I formed it, it didn't match exactly, so I then finished cut it to fit. Still pretty thick that way.
You just gotta be careful forming it, not to crush the top loop.
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I don't generally cut to 18 1/16", it's too close. I usually cut to 18 1/2", but will go down to 18 1/8" upon specific request.
There are a couple reasons for this.
One, the BATFE accepted and standardized method of measurement is to stick a rod down the bore until it hits the breech face (the closed bolt), and measure from the end at the breech to where it shows at the muzzle. For all I know, they have a marked rod. If the markings are off, or there ends up being any error in the measurement process, a little extra room on the barrel saves a ton of headache.
If your barrel is cut at 18 1/16", and it gets measured, and the rod is dropped down the barrel and marked with a pen or marker, and he gets the mark a little off, and then measures it with his cheap, China-made pulltape measure, you could be at 17 15/16" and going to jail. It'll be up to you to prove that the LEO measurement was wrong and you're over the limit. They might even decide to go after whoever did that cutting (meaning someone like me).
No thanks, I'll pass.
Second, barrel cutting isn't always a precise science. Once the barrel is removed, you can't just measure to the shell rim groove, as that's not where the breechface is. All your figuring has to be done first, then you have to match it, and it has to be checked after all the work is done, when it's pretty much too late. So, sometimes you're a tad off where you wanted to be. Also, if the last crowning cut (especially important on rifles) screws up and digs or chatters, it's going to get recut, unless you just don't care and leave it. I'm pretty sure none of the vendors here are going to just "leave it". If that last cut was at 18 1/16", the 'smith is in a real bind. Also, if I get a real good, perfect looking job with just a tad extra still on it, if it's real close, I'm not going to cut it again and risk messing up a great job. So, an 18 1/2" barrel might be 18 9/16", or 18 17/32", or even 18 7/16". All of those are good, and won't give any LEO reason to second guess.
I won't even cut a personal gun that close.
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Every one I've seen is wobbly, although some more than others.
When doing a conversion using a push button folder, I weld a small button at the top and bottom where the stock side of the folder unit hits it when closed. I then carefully file it down to where it will just allow the folder to close and lock easily. There is a small amount of wobble left, but much less than before.
On an aluminum block, a screw could be tapped in and bottomed out, then filed in the same manner.
It'll be interesting to see DPHs folder.
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I haven't seen the "Barrel relief turned", so I'm not sure on that one.
The "Feed ramp riveted in" is for the rifles.
"Gas block aligned as required" is for the shotguns, as often the ports or the gas block itself are misaligned and blocking off some or most of the ports. This will keep the gun from cycling reliably.
"Extractor and extractor relief tuned" is also for the shotguns. With a new S12, you can notice that as the bolt carrier moves forward, just before the bolt stops and the carrier rotates it into breech lock, there is a lot of resistance. If you ease the bolt forward, you will have to push it closed. This is the barrel extractor cutout and extractor. he way it is cut, the extractor is being pushed out quite a bit. It's pretty much not even closed onto the rim of a chambered cartridge. When the gun is fired, as the bolt opens, it relies on the speed of the spring to close the extractor onto the rim to extract the cartridge. Also, the resistance required to close the bolt significantly slows down the forward momentum right when it is needed, to lock the bolt fully on the chambered round. Tuning these eliminates most or all of this resistance, and leaves the ectractor hook engaged with the cartridge rim when the bolt is locked, ready to withdraw the fired case from the chamber, and leaving more of the return energy of the bolt to get the action closed.
Basically, they are reliability enhancements.
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There are no absolutely jam-proof semiautomatic or fully automatic firearms, none.
Even the AK will jam, under the right conditions.
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Thanks, I'll check that out.
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I have one of the Warfield Armory units also, but haven't yet decided what to do with it.
I was waiting to see Cobras, as his is supposed to not require magazine mods.
Too busy now to mess with it, it's just sitting in its envelope.
I had one of my own design, simpler than Warfields, it automatically activated the factory BHO, with the same mag mods as Warfields. It's been working in 2 guns for about 9 months now. Was going to add it to my new gun, make it 3 guns, but it didn't fit with the spring for the Garand safety. I'd have to do one like Warfields, replace the factory BHO. Did put in the bolt release mod to the BHO, you can drop the bolt with your finger now instead of racking it loose.
Too much other, more pressing things right now to worry about the LRBHO.
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There's a couple guys running these on Arfcom. Teppo Jutsu is shipping mag blocks now to run PPS43 mags in the AR platform. The uppers are gas operated units. I got one w/ a SS barrel and chromed barrel & bolt.
With ammo prices, this is the way to go if you want to blow off ammo like the old days.
Where'd you get it, if you don't mind my asking? Also, about how much was it?
I think I'd rather use CZ 26 mags, though, as I already have a bunch of them. Probably not difficult to change. The bolt and barrel are the important parts, mainly the barrel.
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Yes, the plug is steel, just not blued. It's one of the soft ones I was making when I was starting a run. I had to shorten the knurled section, or cut more out of the rail, so that it would slide down in between the rail and gas block. I'm going to cut down a regular harder one soon. I've also got a self-regulating plug started for prototyping.
The quad rail is a UTG AR freelfloat HG. I modified it to fit. Didn't want to start with a $300 quad rail and ruin it. That one runs about $80. It's only touching at the bottom of the gas block. It's ground down some, and there's a hole drilled through the bottom, and the factory screw holds it on. I milled a flat at the receiver end, and made a tab that is bolted to the HG, and fits snugly into the receiver recess where the factory HG fits.
Yes, FAL factory charging handle. I custom made the rail that it rides in and welded it on.
There's more pics and detailed descriptions down in the business section, in our spot.
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Accuracy isn't match grade, but it's a battle rifle. From what I've seen, they're about on par with the average G3 at least.
Mags are everywhere, metric ones at least. Most kit built guns are using metric magwell receivers, even on Inch guns, simply because the mags are more available. They can be had for under $10 if you shop a little.
I think about the cheapest ammo right now is the Radway Green British ammo. It's plenty good ammo.
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Finally got my new S12 done. It took about 5 months, sneaking in time here and there in between everything else.
It has lots of new unusual features.
A couple pics:
More pics, and detailed descriptions are down in Firearms Sales section in this thread:http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=40695
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I had 2, but I still got one !!
My custom shorty. The barrel is 16 1/4" at the end of the permanent mounted Vortex. It's probably the only mid-length gas system FAL in existence. It's halfway between the gas system of the original and DSAs short system. It's an Inch pattern rifle. I made the stock from scratch, it doesn't fold, but I'm thinking of changing that, and made the pistol grip. Replaced the wood on the custom shortened Israeli handguards with a solid plastic piece so the VFG could be added.
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I wish we had more stuff to run Tokarev 7.62X25 in.
I love that round but would like to have it in some other guns. And it is still cheapI been thinking about an AR upper in that. With a block, or a spacer mounted onto the mags (CZ26 mags), they'd work in the magwell.
Since I built the Cobray M11 in that, I got a ton of the ammo.
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..................... ultra-dead ............
Hhmmmm, is that kinda like "ultra-pregnant" ????
Shotguns really shine as a battle weapon at 20yds and less. The ability to hit with large numbers of decent-sized projectiles with few pulls of the trigger, coupled with just about the least over-penetration you can get, makes for a good combination. Also, for the home protection scenario, the ammo capacity isn't even a factor. If you need 30 rds of rifle ammo, the rifle didn't do you any good anyway, because all you've done is kill the whole neighborhood with all those misses.
For SHTF, or TEOTWAWKI, I wouldn't take a shotgun as my main or only long arm. It's limitations would exceed its capabilities in that sort of scenario. But for home protection, or CQB ..........
Personally, however, I live in a tight house with lots of corners, so I prefer a handgun for inside. If going outside into the yard, I prefer the shotgun.
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Stans machinist fix works, and I've done it myself many times over the years. However, while hitting it from the side works, in this instance you need to be sure to support the other side of the gas block when doing this. The reason is that even though it has 2 pins holding it to the barrel, a good whack on one side will rotate it on the barrel slightly. Yes, even with the pins in.
What probably screwed up the threads to begin with was tapping out the puck. They are a very close fit, and if they get the least bit crooked, they bind. In the threads, if it gets crooked, it's sitting against a thread, and tapping on it will bend over the top of the inverted "V", making whatever screws into the threads not fit anymore. When removing or installing the puck, care needs to be taken when applying force, as this can happen. It shouldn't be tight anyway. It should be snug, but slide back and forth freely. If it's tight, gas energy that could be operating the gun is being used just to move the puck.
The factory is varying these bores too much to try to make the puck too tight, unless they're being made for individual guns. If the aftermarket pucks are oversize to factory, there will be some occaisional problems.
If a gas piston requires lube to work, it won't. It's too close. The heat and carbon will dry up and foul up the part.
The threads on the Gunfixr plug are cut the same, but different. They are cut to a slightly tighter machining tolerance, more towards the top for a better fit. Also, the end past the threads is larger in diameter, the same as the puck, in fact. This means the threads are actually cut from the slight groove in front of the threads to the groove behind the threads, so that there aren't thread grooves across the end. You can often see thread grooves all the way to the end of the factory plug. The reason for the larger end is to keep fouling out of the threads, and force more of the gas to the puck, instead of leaking forward away from the puck.
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I don't know what Tony told the OP, and it's none of my business.
That said, I have a customer who likes to put together 1911s as a hobby to fill his time.
He brings me guns to fit parts when they don't go together right, which seems to happen often enough, as he's buying gunshow unnamed parts. Such parts turn out to be out of spec all too often.
Anyway, I get it all fitted and working as it should. Later, he brings it back, he's added something else, but it also needs refitting, it doesn't work again. Seems he's removed some of those carefully fitted parts when he had it apart, and put in some others. Now it needs refitting. I ask him why he didn't put the parts that came out of it back in, as they were fitted to work together, and he tells me he put them in another gun he's building.
It can be frustrating.
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As 20yrs of being a machinist, I can tell you 2 ways to get it out.
1) With a TIG welder, build up the tap until you have metal sticking up out of the hole, drop a nut over it, weld the nut on, and back the tap out.
2) With a milling machine (most drill presses aren't ridgid enough, nor go slow enough) and a carbide drill, drill out the center of the tap, just larger than the bottom of the flutes. What is even better is to make a drill from a carbide endmill, as it will be more ridgid and less likely to break. You grind a spade point on it.
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Personally, I've always preferred the weld on back plate. It allows you to angle the back of the receiver to get the stock right so that the sights line up as they should when you shoulder the weapon. However, either CSS or MSA has recently come out with a bolt on internal block that has an angled rear face, which the Ace doesn't have. Also, the weld on ones do not come loose from recoil, unless whoever welded it doen't know what they're doing.
I think that the welded on back plate boxes the rear of the receiver solid, which probably adds to it's structural integrity some, but that's just an opinion based on years in machining/fabrication.
You're committed with either one, as the tang has to be cut off either way.
Firing pin replacement
in Saiga-12
Posted
First, before someone gets themselves in trouble, Saigas do have headspace, all guns have headspace. The only difference is where the measurements are taken. The headspace on a rimmed cartridge is taken from the rim seat to the breech face. Shotguns are fairly low pressure, and the headspace is not so critical as in some other guns, but it is important.
As for the firing pins, I make them when they are ordered, I don't have time to make a bunch and keep them. I am looking into getting them made, but haven't really had time to do that either. I do make them slightly different than stock. I delete the flats, although there are flats on the rim at the rear end. This is simply to allow the passage of debris or water that may get inside the bolt head, so that the pin can move freely back and forth. I also found that there is plenty of room around the tip of the pin, and I make them larger, which will mean a stronger tip. This may be the problem. I'm not sure, as I haven't compared the older guns with the newer ones. The slop of the pin in the hole will allow the pin to move around side to side, and may be causing the breaks. This condition will also allow the pin to "bow" when it gets pinched between the rear pin and hammer and the primer.