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LKB3rd

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Posts posted by LKB3rd

  1. Hey, glad to hear you are finding the info useful.

    The part of your question about getting stuff from one source:

    I originally planned to get all of my stuff from Dinzag, if possible, and he does have most of the stuff.. All of it for some styles of conversion. I emailed him about a wood stock set, and he sent me to Ironwood. I wanted to get his FCG, but the other parts I ordered needed custom fitting for the .308, and I wanted to start right away, so I got an RSA FCG. I got some parts from Midway as well.

    Point being, finding parts kits or all of them from one vendor/builder is pretty tough, unless you are doing a basic/standard conversion. If you are, then you could probably get all of your stuff from Dinzag. I ended up ordering from 3 or 4 places to get all of the stuff for an old school wood furniture conversion.

     

    Sounds like you are working on something good there! If you are done and don't mind showing a picture I would appreciate it. I have not ordered anything yet cause I am still overthinking the exact furniture I want. I think I am going to order the FCG this weekend. Thanks again

     

    I don't have any pics right now but when I do I will add them to the .308 picture thread. I am finishing up the finish on the stocks right now. I ended up doing yellow, under gunstock brown with a cherry tinted topcoat. Ended up a dark cherry-chocolate.

  2. Hey, glad to hear you are finding the info useful.

    The part of your question about getting stuff from one source:

    I originally planned to get all of my stuff from Dinzag, if possible, and he does have most of the stuff.. All of it for some styles of conversion. I emailed him about a wood stock set, and he sent me to Ironwood. I wanted to get his FCG, but the other parts I ordered needed custom fitting for the .308, and I wanted to start right away, so I got an RSA FCG. I got some parts from Midway as well.

    Point being, finding parts kits or all of them from one vendor/builder is pretty tough, unless you are doing a basic/standard conversion. If you are, then you could probably get all of your stuff from Dinzag. I ended up ordering from 3 or 4 places to get all of the stuff for an old school wood furniture conversion.

  3. I just finished mine, and I went back and forth between Dinzag's .308 and an RSA vepr .308 FCG when deciding. I think the only thing that made my decision was that I wanted it asap and Dinzag's would have shipped with the other two parts I ordered which I guess he fits to order. So I ordered the other two parts from him, and got an RSA that was in stock.

    The RSA works very well so far. Around 100 rounds through it, worked without any issues. I did have to mess up the adjustments, then learn how to adjust it back... but now I have the adjustment process pretty well down, so it worked out fine. I loctited all the set screws but the pull weight, and am headed to the range today with my allen wrench and loctite, so it should be good to go for a while after that.

    It also dropped in without any mods needed, which is the same as Dinzag's, and I guess probably Tromix' too.

  4. I got my front traditional ak style grips working using a bolt on retainer for the lower handguard, and a replacement gas tube with upper handguard brackets that I got from Dinzag . They work great. I got a 4 piece wood stock set from Matt at Ironwood designs . It is outstanding as well. The link from Dinzag says he may soon offer products for Saiga's, but I just emailed him and told him what I have (Saiga .308) and he made a set that works. He even hand cut a sling swivel cut for me on the right side of the buttstock, since I am left handed, at no extra charge, which was a nice bit of customer service that was well appreciated by me. It did require some minor fitting of the tenon on the lower handguard, but I think this is normal, to insure a secure fit, he leaves them slightly big. The upper handguard was a little bit tricky to install. You have to install it upside down, then I had to make sure that the grooves on the ends of the handguard were clear of any finish buildup, add some lube, and use a wrench to grab the gas tube as you twist it for all you are worth lol. It spins around into the proper alignment. Both pieces fit rock solid and really add a lot to the conversion in my opinion. Changing the front handguards is of course optional, and can be done at any time in the future after you complete the FCG, pistol grip, and buttstock.

    As for "how-to" resources, the most helpful one I found by far was a video series on youtube that can be found here :

    . The rest of the series can be found using the small link window to the right of the video screen.
  5. Does 922-r and all the '10-or-less' parts rules apply to 30-06 rifles, in particular the Saiga 30-06, or only to non-importable, "unsporting" rifles? Asked another way; can a Saiag 30-06 evenbe considered "non sproting" by definition?

     

    Reason I ask is because in order to be an assault rifle, the cartridge case length must be 2.25 inches or less

     

    ("...Rifles chambered to accept a centerfire cartridge case having a length of 2.25 inches or less (includes .223 and 7.62 X 39); and...")

     

    where a 30-06 has a case length of 2.494 inches (and an Cartridge AOL of 3.34 in, FWIW), which is of course longer than 2.25 inches.

     

    Please school me on the intricacies of this part of 922-r; as i can find no reference specifically on it.

     

    If the S-30-06 is "sporting" by definition, then can a conversion, a la Tromix- so far the only one known, be done with no regard to final parts count?

     

    Thx,

    C-

    $.02...not a lawyer.. etc

    Is the case length section in 922R? if it is, then it might mean it doesn't apply. If it is a law from somewhere else, then I think you'd have to follow the definition of "assault wepon" in 922r terms.

    On the other hand, it is very easy to convert, and if you use the commonly available us made parts for it, you'll hit 922r compliance very quickly.

  6. I've just about finished my conversion, except for cutting off the back "lip" of the receiver to allow the use of the ACE internal block and the ACE stock. My question is, since this is an irreversible modification, do most regular AK stocks need this lip to screw into? Or is the Saiga hunting stock the only one?

     

    I'm just asking because if I ever wanted to change the stock later, and take off the ACE stock and even put on some wood furniture, could I??

     

    BTW, i've use my Dremel for most of the things needed for the conversion, but if I do cut this off, is the dremel what most folks use?

     

    Sorry, another question....... Mine didn't have a retainer plate in it. What do most of ya'll use to hold the pins in? Or do you just order a retainer plate?

     

    Wooden military style butt stocks do use the receiver tang for a buttstock screw.

    Mine had a retainer spring in its sporter configuration that I re used. It looks different than a retainer plate, but functions for the same purpose.

  7. I ran 100 rounds through it today and it ran like clockwork. It loosened up a little bit from buffing of the contact surfaces from dry firing and live fire, and the pull is probably settled in the 4 pound range, short two stage pull. It's fantastic, and ready to be loc-tited in place.

    I don't have pictures but I do have 3 witnesses to me taking out the wooden leg of the target frame, after it fell halfway through the half hour live fire(it had to be taped up for me to use in the first place) in two shots offhand, from 100 yards. My expectations are far exceeded.

  8. Find somebody in your area with an AK trigger guard rivet jig. They'll probably have the rivets, too.

     

    Spending $100 on a jig you'll use once doesn't make sense to me.

     

    Both of the screws will be covered, by the pistol grip and the magazine catch. I actually just wedged mine in there without screws and it holds plenty secure.

  9. Yea, I did put it back in its "stock" setttings, but it doesn't seem to be responding to the settings. I am going to remove it after work tonight and see if maybe it is binding somehow on something.

     

     

    I got it working right.

    I had to start with the pretravel and overtravel set screws. Both of those I set relatively short. Then I adjusted the position and tension on the disconnector. Each setting is affected by the others so I went slow and in short amounts, one setting at a time.

    I have it working as a short two stage pull with a medium weight break. Works and feels great.

  10. So, I just installed my rsa trigger group. Before I tested it out, I was expirimenting with the set screws, and now if I hold the trigger down, the hammer does not engage the sear, until I let off of the trigger.

    Anyone know where I can start to get it working again properly?

  11. I just finished removing mine and they were tough. I had to use a ratchet with a flat head screw attachment, and utilize a helper to hold the receiver steady. A tiny bit of WD-40 helped, and it also worked well to get the buttstock out by spraying some around the joint.

    I will definitely pre-drill and grease the screws when I use them in the new stock.

  12. The receiver has a plate covering the "original" trigger hole. You remove that, by drilling out some rivets and spot welds and the new trigger group drops into the freshly uncovered hole.

    Take a look at this video.

    Parts 2 through the end can be watched using the window to the right of the video.

    For the .308 there are less steps because you don't have to remove the pins for the unconverted trigger group linkage.. It has the funny trigger that extends forward instead.

  13. Was there supossed to be a bulge problem with the FBMG mag? I'm looking at my 20 rounder in the S-308 fully loaded for months now and there's no bulge.

    I forget where I read it, but someone was recomending not keeping them loaded, due to bulging. I can't remember if it was in reference to a particular brand, or all of the poly mags.

  14. I just ordered a mojo peep rear sight. It has both windage and elevation. At the range today it was a headache making sure that the front post was perfectly centered in the notch, and decided to get a better sight. I did get the elevation dialed in and was shooting some decent groups. Turns out my adjustment last night was pretty nearly perfect. I lowered it a quarter turn from that.

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