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LKB3rd

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About LKB3rd

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  1. LKB3rd

    Hammer side to side movement

    I have my .308 converted with an RSA fire control group. There is some side to side play if I move the hammer with my hand. It doesn't seem to do it under normal operation, but I am concerned that it will make for a safety issue, possibly breaking off the disconnector in the trigger piece. What can I do to remedy this?
  2. LKB3rd

    Is this normal?

    I don't have a digi cam, but I'll try to be more clear. It is the hook that grabs the hammer, on the trigger part. As the hammer cocks, it is the piece just forward of where the hammer sits when cocked that hooks onto the forward part of the hammer. When I am trying to field strip it, after I remove the spring and attempt to push the bolt carrier all the way to the rear, I am pretty sure it is the bolt that is hitting the very top of the hook piece. If I depress the trigger, it moves it forward and down, and it clears it. Like I already mentioned, it doesn't seem to be hitting it when assembled, but that could be because the bolt carrier isn't allowed to travel far enough back. I think that I could probably adjust it so that it sits more forward and down. I just wanted to know if this is common/normal, or if I should remedy it before my next range session with it. It has started happening recently, I noticed it after my last range trip when field stripping to clean. I think I know what you're talking about. I believe I had the same problem with my conversion using the RSA FCG. First thing you want to do is brush some white-out on the top of any part of the FCG that you think might be hanging up on the bolt. Then slide the bolt back and do what you need to do to field strip it. Then look to see where the bolt is hitting the white-out on the FCG. I had to file down the top-most part of the FCG substantially. This top-most part of the FCG is the 45 degree elbow that sits above the sear. I confirmed with RSA that this was OK. I recommend you do so also. I filed down more than I needed to just clear the bolt for fieldstripping because I noticed from using the white-out test that the FCG elbow I'm talking about was being pushed aside by the bolt and was also causing a step of resistance when I pulled the bolt back all the way. I dremeled and hand filed 5000th of an inch at a time. Keep testing with the white-out. I hope this answers your question. Good luck. Yes it does. The white out idea is a good one, and I'll do that. Thanks!
  3. LKB3rd

    Is this normal?

    I don't have a digi cam, but I'll try to be more clear. It is the hook that grabs the hammer, on the trigger part. As the hammer cocks, it is the piece just forward of where the hammer sits when cocked that hooks onto the forward part of the hammer. When I am trying to field strip it, after I remove the spring and attempt to push the bolt carrier all the way to the rear, I am pretty sure it is the bolt that is hitting the very top of the hook piece. If I depress the trigger, it moves it forward and down, and it clears it. Like I already mentioned, it doesn't seem to be hitting it when assembled, but that could be because the bolt carrier isn't allowed to travel far enough back. I think that I could probably adjust it so that it sits more forward and down. I just wanted to know if this is common/normal, or if I should remedy it before my next range session with it. It has started happening recently, I noticed it after my last range trip when field stripping to clean.
  4. LKB3rd

    Is this normal?

    If I don't pull the trigger slightly, the bolt carrier hangs up on the piece on the trigger that holds back the hammer, during a field strip. I am concerned about it hitting it hard under fire and breaking off, and going into full auto slam fire mode. With the spring in, assembled, it doesn't appear to hang up when hand cycling. It is an RSA adjustable fcg. Is that what causes the trigger slap back I have read about? Should I adjust it so it sits slightly forward and clears the bolt, or is this normal?
  5. LKB3rd

    .308 receiver question

    I also cut mine slightly further back than the factory cut, not on purpose. Turns out it works just as well, no problems at all. So, there isn't an *exact* location it has to be to work. You can flex the trigger guard to fit a small range of locations, and as long as the trigger guard fits, and the PG doesn't hang off the back of the receiver, I think it will work fine. Mine does.
  6. LKB3rd

    FBMG mag availability?

    $45 each for 20 round .308
  7. LKB3rd

    FBMG mag availability?

    I just ordered 3 tonight using that number. Thanks Correia.
  8. LKB3rd

    FBMG mag availability?

    I called them last week and they told me they weren't taking orders but their website would be up this week, and taking orders. I haven't followed up on checking their site.
  9. LKB3rd

    I want to Convert!!!

    You could remove the old one and install it(pg) b4 you add the new fcg.
  10. LKB3rd

    Newbie Planning to convert a 308

    1. No personal experience/your personal preference 2. see above 3. Yes, very easy. Hardest part is working inside the receiver. A pair of needle nose pliers pretty much solves that. 4. The two pins that hold a trigger linkage, just above the original trigger on a Saiga x39 are not present on the .308. It has the weird swept back trigger. Forward/AK trigger opening is under the plate on bottom of the receiver. Pistol grip nut cutout may or may not need to be cut by you. 5. It's the lever that allows you to lock the action open. 6. right 7. not a question 8. I don't have any experience with that 9. Piston is a compliance part, probably would need to be fitted for the .308. Not necessary unless you need more compliance parts. Replace the gas tube with one with upper handguard brackets if you choose to use regular AK front handguards. Needs to be fitted, or bought from Dinzag fitted by him. 10. FBMG and Surefire are the most commonly used aftermarket .308 mags for Saiga's. I am still using the factory 8 rounder, but I am going to order some FBMG 20 rounders shortly. Good luck, I bet you'll enjoy the process *almost* as much as the finished product if you are anything like me, and apparently others here.
  11. LKB3rd

    Saiga .308 pistol grip nut cutout?

    Mine needed the hole to be cut. It needed to go right where the trigger cut was in the unconverted state, so I just widenened the trigger cut in the right place with a small triangle file that is meant for guitar fret filing. ETA: woops. Did threads get merged, or did i answer twice lol?
  12. LKB3rd

    New guy with a quetion

    The denting happens when the spent casings are ejected. So far as I can tell, they hit the rear corner of the dust cover , and occasionally the charging handle. I used "goo" in those two spots and it 90% solved the problem. Occasional small dings. Others use automotive slip on molding, or a valmet ejection buffer for the same purpose.
  13. But...I thought 'regular' AK mags were foreign made too? You'd have to convert enough other parts to get it 922r compliant.
  14. LKB3rd

    AK74 style brake for .308?

    http://www.blackjackbuffers.com/index.php?...104a0dbef84ddc8 .30 cal bore, 14:1 lh thread. Isn't the x51 slightly larger daimeter than a x39? Will this brake work on my Saiga .308?
  15. LKB3rd

    Saiga .308 pistol grip nut cutout?

    1. Yes, the hole is covered under the plate on the bottom of the receiver 2. Mine needed to have it cut (pg attachment hole). I did it with a triangle file made for guitar fret filing, but it is easier I am sure with a dremel attachment of some sort. Not sure if all .308's need this cut or not.
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