Newbie Seeking Confidence Boost (.308 Conversion)

[xjedix 6]

I just picked up a Saiga .308 a couple days ago and am interested in doing a conversion. First off, i wanted to know if you still have the bolt hold back feature with the conversion?? I am a pretty hands on guy but only have the most basic of tools/ dremel. I am looking to do a budget conversion so I will go with the basics with a k-var stock ect.

 

For those that have done the conversion themselves, how difficult was it?? Did you refinish (gunkote, duracoat ect) the receiver after the conversion or does it even need it?? If you could guide me to a someone that has a good price on a .308 conversion kit it would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks,

 

 

-Derek

[cellsworth 21]

First, I recommend that you go to dinzagarms.com. His products (especially the .308 PG conversion FCG; yes it IS worth the money) are great, and make the conversion very easy. He also has lots of useful information about the conversion process. I converted my .308 with a Dremel, a drill, a small cold chisel (helps to finish off the bottom plate and trigger guard spot welds), and a hammer. Checking out the YouTube Saiga conversion video (even though he is not working on a .308) can inspire confidence. Believe me, you CAN do it. The hardest part is removing the bottom plate, and that isn't bad. Do your homework before starting, and take your time. An inexpensive gun vise (I used a Lohman Sight Vise) really helps to free up your hands when working on the gun.

 

With the FCG from Dinzag, you will be able to use the factory bolt hold-open with no modifications (some people do like to shorten the tab you push on to actuate the bolt hold-open to reduce interference with your trigger finger). As for refinishing the gun, all I did was to properly prepare the area under the bottom plate that is removed during the conversion (there is no paint from the factory there), and paint it with Duplicolor LOW GLOSS 500-degree engine enamel. It matches the factory finish well, and is pretty durable. I recommend that you plug the chamber and gas tube opening at the receiver end, and mask off openings in the receiver, to minimize having to clean metal shavings out of the gun after the conversion. Keep in mind that, due to the different trigger system used in the .308, you only have to disengage the retaining wire and push out two pins to remove the original FCG. No drilling is required for that part. Someone recently posted that they thought it was, and they just about ruined their gun as a result. The drilling comes in when you remove the bottom plate and trigger guard. Use new Cobalt bits. Good luck.

[scor5150pio 0]

YOU CANNOT DO THIS! YOU ARE NEITHER SMART NOR SKILLED ENOUGH TO NOT FUBAR YOUR RIFLE!! AND REALLY YOUR PARENTS CLEARLY DIDNT LOVE YOU ENOUGH OR YOU WOULDNT EVEN WANT TO CONVERT YOUR RIFLE!

 

ALL OF US WHO ARENT GUNSMITHS THOUGHT ALL THAT STUFF BEFOER WE DID THE CONVERSION. WELL EXCEPT FOR THE STUFF ABOUT YOUR PARENTS THAT WAS PROBABLY JUST ME.

 

GO HERE:

http://www.cross-conn.com/Saiga_Conversion/index.htm

 

READ EVERY PAGE UNTIL YOU KNOW IT BY HEART BEFORE YOU EVEN TAKE OUT YOUR DREMEL.

 

DONT DO LIKE GRANDDAD SAID "MEASURE TWICE AND CUT ONCE." MEASURE 5 TIMES, DRAW A SCALE TEMPLATE MEASURE THAT AND THEN CUT!

 

USE THE BEST DRILL BITS YOU CAN AFFORD. YOU WILL HAVE THEM FOR A LONG TIME TO USE OVER AND OVER IF YOU DONT WRECK EM ON THE SPOTWELD.

 

GOOD LUCK

Edited May 17, 2008 by scor5150pio

[acercanto 6]

Okay, I don't know what scorpio is smoking, but that cross-conn site is very informative. The conversion isn't very bad at all, just take your time and double check before you cut/file/drill/mangle. It took me an afternoon, and that was with breaks and taking my dear sweet time. No dremel either, just drill and files. I'm sure a dremel will make things go faster for you. I haven't refinished my 308 yet, I managed not to scratch it anywhere except on the bottom where the plate was, and that's pretty inconspicuous, so I'm just sitting on it for now.

Like hogdog said, Dinzag has many useful parts that make the conversion easier. And yes, you can have the bolt hold-open post-conversion. Remember the orientation of the BHO spring, and you'll be good to go.

 

Hope that sheds some light on the topic,

Acer

[xjedix 6]

Hey thanks for the comments guys. I have been studying up on the tutorial and video and have just a couple questions.

 

1. You mention that the .308's do not have any pins on the side of the receiver that need to be ground down, is this correct?? What would be the first step then, puching the 2 pins out that hold the trigger components in???

 

2. What other small parts do I need beside the .308 conversion kit?? Will I need the pistol grip screw and nut as well?? Please give me the heads up on anything that is not included in the conversion kit.

 

Is this all I need?

 

Conversion kit - http://www.dinzagarms.com/misc_parts/fcgpgc.html

Pistol grip screw - http://www.dinzagarms.com/misc_parts/akpgns.html

K-var stock and grip

 

 

Thanks,

 

-Derek

Edited May 17, 2008 by xjedix

[wally 2]

the dewalt drill bits at lowes or homedepot cut through the rivets like a hot knife through butter,you can buy a single bit or just get the set,Ive used them on 3 guns and still going strong

Edited May 17, 2008 by pvt joker

[acercanto 6]

That should be all the small parts you need. Yes, you do need the grip screw and nut.

No, you don't need to grind anything on the sides. The first step is field stripping the gun, and taking out/moving the "shepherds crook" that holds the trigger and hammer pins in. A cool trick that makes taking the hammer out a lot easier is to take the ends of the hammer spring and pull them up and over the ears of the hammer and cross them so they hold each other up. That takes the tension off the pins and makes thing that much simpler.

 

Hope that made some sense,

Acer

[xjedix 6]

"shepherds crook" - I have not heard that term, could you educate me as to what that is??

 

I notice in the 7.62 conversion video there is some type of pin retaining plate that holds the trigger pins in. My rifle does not seem to have it, is the .308 different??

[acercanto 6]

It's the wire that holds the trigger and hammer pins in. Should be on the left side of the gun on the inside. In the 7.62 conversion, the retaining plate can replace the shepherds crook. It also costs much more than the wire. It's personal preference, some people have a really hard time with the shepherd's crook, others it's no big deal.

 

Hope that helps,

Acer

[xjedix 6]

Thank you very much for taking the time to explain that. It is greatly appreciated.

 

-Derek

[Havoc308 3]

One of the tools I found most helpful is a Unibit self starting bits. It's a stepped drill bit that is especially made for drilling sheet metal. I just file a flat on each of the rivets, center punch them so the bit doesn't walk, and drill the rivets out. The unibit is also good for drilling out the spot welds that hold on the trigger guard. The ones that hold the cover plate on I just peel the plate back enough to get a cold chisel under it chisel off the plate. Krylon grill paint is a perfect match for stock saiga paint.

 

Unibits

Edited May 17, 2008 by Havoc308

[cellsworth 21]

Hey thanks for the comments guys. I have been studying up on the tutorial and video and have just a couple questions.

 

1. You mention that the .308's do not have any pins on the side of the receiver that need to be ground down, is this correct?? What would be the first step then, puching the 2 pins out that hold the trigger components in???

 

2. What other small parts do I need beside the .308 conversion kit?? Will I need the pistol grip screw and nut as well?? Please give me the heads up on anything that is not included in the conversion kit.

 

Is this all I need?

 

Conversion kit - http://www.dinzagarms.com/misc_parts/fcgpgc.html

Pistol grip screw - http://www.dinzagarms.com/misc_parts/akpgns.html

K-var stock and grip

 

 

Thanks,

 

-Derek

 

As Acer said, you will need both the grip nut and screw. You will also need a small machine screw and nut to reattach the trigger guard. I simply tucked one end of the trigger guard under the the mag catch tower, and screwed the other end down. I works great. With the .308, I think it is usually necessary to drill the new rear hole to reattach the trigger guard. I think it was around 2.2" from the back edge of the receiver, but you will want to check further on that. If I remember right, someone posted that dimension at some point. You will need to bend the trigger guard slightly to get the right shape. I use blue Locktite on the screws.

[charger SE 0]

If you don't want to mess with the shepard's crook (heard it can be troublesome), get a couple of 5/16" "E" type retaining rings, they snap in the pin grooves, real slick. Works like a charm