First conversion

[DanielB 0]

OK.I got the 7.62 down to the part where I am trying to drill out the spot weld on the front of the trigger guard.I have good drill bits but they can only make an indention about a 1/16".Any ideas?

Thanks,Daniel

[gunguy98 5]

OK.I got the 7.62 down to the part where I am trying to drill out the spot weld on the front of the trigger guard.I have good drill bits but they can only make an indention about a 1/16".Any ideas?

Thanks,Daniel

 

Use Cobalt drill bits, work like a charm.

[DanielB 0]

OK.I got the 7.62 down to the part where I am trying to drill out the spot weld on the front of the trigger guard.I have good drill bits but they can only make an indention about a 1/16".Any ideas?

Thanks,Daniel

 

Use Cobalt drill bits, work like a charm.

Thanks I'll try that.I thought Dewalt were good bits.I guess not.

[gunguy98 5]

OK.I got the 7.62 down to the part where I am trying to drill out the spot weld on the front of the trigger guard.I have good drill bits but they can only make an indention about a 1/16".Any ideas?

Thanks,Daniel

 

Use Cobalt drill bits, work like a charm.

Thanks I'll try that.I thought Dewalt were good bits.I guess not.

 

I'm not sure what other types they make but the ones that are gold in color.Those are the ones I use.

[protected static 19]

Yeah, 'cobalt' isn't a brand name, it's a type of drill bit; DeWalt makes cobalt bits, too. The receiver welds are hardened steel, and conventional metalworking bits are intended for softer metals, including mild steel or unhardened tool steel. Cobalt bits are capable of standing up to the harder steel.

[schadenfreude 2]

I used a glass and tile bit from home depot on my conversions. It takes about 30 seconds with cutting lube and a light pulsing action on my drill press. And I had the super duper welded titanium muthafukka spot weld that cobalt bits didn't touch.

 

In a perfect world I would have a milling machine and use a carbide endmill.

 

 

But a $4 tile bit works too.

[rssfndly 14]

I used some cobalt bit's and they didn't work, I can't remember what brand. I actually ground the spot welds down then pulled the plate off. Then I used a dremel and ground what was left of the welds flush with the receiver. Took about 10 or 15 minutes.

[DanielB 0]

I used some cobalt bit's and they didn't work, I can't remember what brand. I actually ground the spot welds down then pulled the plate off. Then I used a dremel and ground what was left of the welds flush with the receiver. Took about 10 or 15 minutes.

I finally got the weld and rivets out (Time-1HR)I ground them down with the dremel and then used bits from small to big.It would have been perfect looking except I put a small scratch on the bottom edge of the receiver.That really xxxxxx me off.I'll fix it when I paint the underside.I got the trigger group in the mail today.

Do I need a retention plate or can I use something else to keep the pins from backing out?

Thanks,Daniel

[rssfndly 14]

I used some cobalt bit's and they didn't work, I can't remember what brand. I actually ground the spot welds down then pulled the plate off. Then I used a dremel and ground what was left of the welds flush with the receiver. Took about 10 or 15 minutes.

I finally got the weld and rivets out (Time-1HR)I ground them down with the dremel and then used bits from small to big.It would have been perfect looking except I put a small scratch on the bottom edge of the receiver.That really xxxxxx me off.I'll fix it when I paint the underside.I got the trigger group in the mail today.

Do I need a retention plate or can I use something else to keep the pins from backing out?

Thanks,Daniel

 

I forgot to add info about the rivets. I grind them too and get them as flush as posible with the receiver after the plate is removed. Then use a center punch and they come right out.

I have heard you can use e clips on the pins. I have not tryed it but you should be able to get some at a local hardware store. Don't forget to take the pins.

[DanielB 0]

I used some cobalt bit's and they didn't work, I can't remember what brand. I actually ground the spot welds down then pulled the plate off. Then I used a dremel and ground what was left of the welds flush with the receiver. Took about 10 or 15 minutes.

I finally got the weld and rivets out (Time-1HR)I ground them down with the dremel and then used bits from small to big.It would have been perfect looking except I put a small scratch on the bottom edge of the receiver.That really xxxxxx me off.I'll fix it when I paint the underside.I got the trigger group in the mail today.

Do I need a retention plate or can I use something else to keep the pins from backing out?

Thanks,Daniel

 

I forgot to add info about the rivets. I grind them too and get them as flush as posible with the receiver after the plate is removed. Then use a center punch and they come right out.

I have heard you can use e clips on the pins. I have not tryed it but you should be able to get some at a local hardware store. Don't forget to take the pins.

I'll try and pick some up and see how they do.Thanks for the tips

[DanielB 0]

I used some cobalt bit's and they didn't work, I can't remember what brand. I actually ground the spot welds down then pulled the plate off. Then I used a dremel and ground what was left of the welds flush with the receiver. Took about 10 or 15 minutes.

I finally got the weld and rivets out (Time-1HR)I ground them down with the dremel and then used bits from small to big.It would have been perfect looking except I put a small scratch on the bottom edge of the receiver.That really xxxxxx me off.I'll fix it when I paint the underside.I got the trigger group in the mail today.

Do I need a retention plate or can I use something else to keep the pins from backing out?

Thanks,Daniel

 

I forgot to add info about the rivets. I grind them too and get them as flush as posible with the receiver after the plate is removed. Then use a center punch and they come right out.

I have heard you can use e clips on the pins. I have not tryed it but you should be able to get some at a local hardware store. Don't forget to take the pins.

I'll try and pick some up and see how they do.Thanks for the tips

I'm at the point where I'm waiting on the PGrip so I decided to work on the bullet guide.I decided to make one out of a black pipe nipple.Pretty easy to cut using a nicholson carbon steel blade.I have shaped it and made a recessed area on the backside to fit under barrel.Everything fits perfectly and the bolt shuts as if it was not there.I noticed that the vice roughed up the areas where I clamped the guide.I cleaned it up a bit and started wondering if I should temper the guide?Also,is there a paint or coating I can put on it to darken a bit?What about perma blue?Thanks,Daniel

[rssfndly 14]

I used some cobalt bit's and they didn't work, I can't remember what brand. I actually ground the spot welds down then pulled the plate off. Then I used a dremel and ground what was left of the welds flush with the receiver. Took about 10 or 15 minutes.

I finally got the weld and rivets out (Time-1HR)I ground them down with the dremel and then used bits from small to big.It would have been perfect looking except I put a small scratch on the bottom edge of the receiver.That really xxxxxx me off.I'll fix it when I paint the underside.I got the trigger group in the mail today.

Do I need a retention plate or can I use something else to keep the pins from backing out?

Thanks,Daniel

 

I forgot to add info about the rivets. I grind them too and get them as flush as posible with the receiver after the plate is removed. Then use a center punch and they come right out.

I have heard you can use e clips on the pins. I have not tryed it but you should be able to get some at a local hardware store. Don't forget to take the pins.

I'll try and pick some up and see how they do.Thanks for the tips

 

I just heard that the e-clips may not last very long so you should get a Tromix shepards crook. If you can't find one PM me I have bunch.

[DanielB 0]

I used some cobalt bit's and they didn't work, I can't remember what brand. I actually ground the spot welds down then pulled the plate off. Then I used a dremel and ground what was left of the welds flush with the receiver. Took about 10 or 15 minutes.

I finally got the weld and rivets out (Time-1HR)I ground them down with the dremel and then used bits from small to big.It would have been perfect looking except I put a small scratch on the bottom edge of the receiver.That really xxxxxx me off.I'll fix it when I paint the underside.I got the trigger group in the mail today.

Do I need a retention plate or can I use something else to keep the pins from backing out?

Thanks,

Daniel Oh,Will I have to do anything to use stock BHO?

 

I forgot to add info about the rivets. I grind them too and get them as flush as posible with the receiver after the plate is removed. Then use a center punch and they come right out.

I have heard you can use e clips on the pins. I have not tryed it but you should be able to get some at a local hardware store. Don't forget to take the pins.

I'll try and pick some up and see how they do.Thanks for the tips

 

I just heard that the e-clips may not last very long so you should get a Tromix shepards crook. If you can't find one PM me I have bunch.

Thanks I may do that.Funny that guns got short then clips then furniture...now conversion parts.I'm still trying to figure out what to do about color and strength of guide.

Edited December 20, 2008 by HunterDan

[rssfndly 14]

I used some cobalt bit's and they didn't work, I can't remember what brand. I actually ground the spot welds down then pulled the plate off. Then I used a dremel and ground what was left of the welds flush with the receiver. Took about 10 or 15 minutes.

I finally got the weld and rivets out (Time-1HR)I ground them down with the dremel and then used bits from small to big.It would have been perfect looking except I put a small scratch on the bottom edge of the receiver.That really xxxxxx me off.I'll fix it when I paint the underside.I got the trigger group in the mail today.

Do I need a retention plate or can I use something else to keep the pins from backing out?

Thanks,

Daniel Oh,Will I have to do anything to use stock BHO?

 

I forgot to add info about the rivets. I grind them too and get them as flush as posible with the receiver after the plate is removed. Then use a center punch and they come right out.

I have heard you can use e clips on the pins. I have not tryed it but you should be able to get some at a local hardware store. Don't forget to take the pins.

I'll try and pick some up and see how they do.Thanks for the tips

 

I just heard that the e-clips may not last very long so you should get a Tromix shepards crook. If you can't find one PM me I have bunch.

Thanks I may do that.Funny that guns got short then clips then furniture...now conversion parts.I'm still trying to figure out what to do about color and strength of guide.

 

 

Not sure about tempering the guide. If you think you should then go ahead and do it. You could just paint it with high temp engine enamel if you are concerned about rust. I know some people bead blast the bolt carrier so it's shiny and leave it unfinished, you just need to keep it oiled.

[DanielB 0]

I used some cobalt bit's and they didn't work, I can't remember what brand. I actually ground the spot welds down then pulled the plate off. Then I used a dremel and ground what was left of the welds flush with the receiver. Took about 10 or 15 minutes.

I finally got the weld and rivets out (Time-1HR)I ground them down with the dremel and then used bits from small to big.It would have been perfect looking except I put a small scratch on the bottom edge of the receiver.That really xxxxxx me off.I'll fix it when I paint the underside.I got the trigger group in the mail today.

Do I need a retention plate or can I use something else to keep the pins from backing out?

Thanks,

Daniel Oh,Will I have to do anything to use stock BHO?

 

I forgot to add info about the rivets. I grind them too and get them as flush as posible with the receiver after the plate is removed. Then use a center punch and they come right out.

I have heard you can use e clips on the pins. I have not tryed it but you should be able to get some at a local hardware store. Don't forget to take the pins.

I'll try and pick some up and see how they do.Thanks for the tips

 

I just heard that the e-clips may not last very long so you should get a Tromix shepards crook. If you can't find one PM me I have bunch.

Thanks I may do that.Funny that guns got short then clips then furniture...now conversion parts.I'm still trying to figure out what to do about color and strength of guide.

 

 

Not sure about tempering the guide. If you think you should then go ahead and do it. You could just paint it with high temp engine enamel if you are concerned about rust. I know some people bead blast the bolt carrier so it's shiny and leave it unfinished, you just need to keep it oiled.

Thanks again for the help.The cobalt bits you suggested really helped.I'm going to temper the guide just like the knives I make.

[DanielB 0]

I used some cobalt bit's and they didn't work, I can't remember what brand. I actually ground the spot welds down then pulled the plate off. Then I used a dremel and ground what was left of the welds flush with the receiver. Took about 10 or 15 minutes.

I finally got the weld and rivets out (Time-1HR)I ground them down with the dremel and then used bits from small to big.It would have been perfect looking except I put a small scratch on the bottom edge of the receiver.That really xxxxxx me off.I'll fix it when I paint the underside.I got the trigger group in the mail today.

Do I need a retention plate or can I use something else to keep the pins from backing out?

Thanks,

Daniel Oh,Will I have to do anything to use stock BHO?

 

I forgot to add info about the rivets. I grind them too and get them as flush as posible with the receiver after the plate is removed. Then use a center punch and they come right out.

I have heard you can use e clips on the pins. I have not tryed it but you should be able to get some at a local hardware store. Don't forget to take the pins.

I'll try and pick some up and see how they do.Thanks for the tips

 

I just heard that the e-clips may not last very long so you should get a Tromix shepards crook. If you can't find one PM me I have bunch.

Thanks I may do that.Funny that guns got short then clips then furniture...now conversion parts.I'm still trying to figure out what to do about color and strength of guide.

 

 

Not sure about tempering the guide. If you think you should then go ahead and do it. You could just paint it with high temp engine enamel if you are concerned about rust. I know some people bead blast the bolt carrier so it's shiny and leave it unfinished, you just need to keep it oiled.

Thanks again for the help.The cobalt bits you suggested really helped.I'm going to temper the guide just like the knives I make.

Thanks for all the suggestions and help on this site.I finished my conv.I wanted to post pics and list it at the same time so I am giving a link to the pics.I canceled the GB add because I don't want to sell my first conv. unless I have to.I may have to soon to pay for more saigas I have coming.Anyway here it is...and yes I give thanks to the copied style I used on the forend.Thanks again and Merry Christmas.Dan

http://gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=119213218