cpileri 0 Posted March 6, 2005 Report Share Posted March 6, 2005 Still trying to buy half an inch or so of muzzle end to thread or attach whatever. Is it easier, harder, or just the same (as pressing it off) to push the front sight base BACK half an inch? Just wondering. C- Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zarathustra 0 Posted March 6, 2005 Report Share Posted March 6, 2005 (edited) No, the barrel is turned down at the front sight base.There is also a lip at the muzzle. I removed the fsb, ground off the lip, cut a slot in the bottom side so it could expand and slid the fsb back far enough to solder it and a muzzle brake on. Edited March 6, 2005 by Zarathustra Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cpileri 0 Posted March 6, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2005 And this spake Zara... nevermind. Well, that's a way to do it. Do you havea thread about removing the fsb in the first place? Can it be done ay home with common tools? What type of solder did you use to affix the fsb after moving it? What is what muzzle brake did you use? Did it require reaming out or was it open enough to slide over the muzzle as is? Thanks, C- No, the barrel is turned down at the front sight base.There is also a lip at the muzzle.I removed the fsb, ground off the lip, cut a slot in the bottom side so it could expand and slid the fsb back far enough to solder it and a muzzle brake on. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zarathustra 0 Posted March 7, 2005 Report Share Posted March 7, 2005 remove the fsb by knocking out the pins and sliding it off.Easier said than done,try applying heat to the base and hitting with soft faced hammer. I used low temp silver bearing solder which melts at about 450. So far its holding. The brake was 14mm threaded which drilled out to 11/16 on a drill press.I had to shim the brake to get a snug fit , 43/64 drill would be better if you can find one. The steel on a typical brake is pretty hard but I managed with a HSS drill and a small drill press. This was on a 16" barrel, 22" are a different diameter I hear.After soldering I smoothed the gaps with metal filler and a file.. Not exactly professional gunsmithing to be sure, but with a limited budget and tools I think it turned out OK.The solder should hold as long as the barrel does not get too hot .Brazing is an option but would heating barrel to 1200*.TIG welding is probably best. The problem with the saiga is the barrel is not a standard ak diameter.A RPK fsb might fit if you can find or afford one..If you want to to thread on a brake the end of the barrel will have to be turned down on a lathe. You might find a brake that uses set screws for an AR15 that will slide on the end of the barrel, its .673" approx. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cpileri 0 Posted March 7, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2005 its .673" approx. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Thanks. Is that .673" under the fsb? at the 'lip' at the front of the muzzle? or the rest of the barrel behind the fsb to the receiver? C- Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zarathustra 0 Posted March 8, 2005 Report Share Posted March 8, 2005 .673 is under the fsb not includiing a short taper right at the muzzle, about .25 inch long i recall . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted March 8, 2005 Report Share Posted March 8, 2005 Remember to fit the bore with a close fitting wood dowel to take up the oxyget while the barrel is heated, otherwise the bore may be damaged, if you going to silver solder it. if you call LLC, they cam make an AK74 brake that will slide over the barrel of the saiga, if you going to do what Zarathustra did with his rifle and install the brake with silver solder or weld it. Just give them the size of the OD of the barrel and they will, machine inside of the brake to slide over the barrel to be silver solder. Last time I did, it was with a saiga on 7.62X39, cost of the muzzle brake 25.00 bucks and fit right over the saiga FSG, on your 308 I guess you going to have to push your front sight back to fit muzzle brake on barrel. http://www.dynasystems-ltd.com/muzzlebrakes.htm By the way I use silvaloy to braze my muzzle brake. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cpileri 0 Posted March 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2005 Z- Thanks for the exacto measurements! Also, do you know: 1. the diameter of the barrel ahead of the FSB? (that tiny little length after it ends) 2. the dimensions of the front sight itself, particularly the lenght? 3. the length of the sleeve? 3. the diameter of the barrel just behind the sleeve? My micrometer isnt very good at getting around the sight longways. Reason I ask touches on the next post by vjor and by other helpful folks, and is that I am trying to prepare all possible dimensions to relay to dynasystems or perhaps another custom maker on the slim chance that they agree to make a slip-on type attachment for the s-308. I plan to call dynasystems today. I sorta wish i knew someone locally who could just weld something on the end and I'd be done with it. But I am still going the 'no permanent modifications' route until I am either successful or have exhausted the possibility. Thanks EVERYONE for the replies. C- Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cpileri 0 Posted March 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2005 No go on the dynasystems. I called them and they are not interested in doing a slip-on with a front sight notch. Still not giving up! C- Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted March 10, 2005 Report Share Posted March 10, 2005 Hey Bro, I do not think you are going to find any decent muzzle brake with a notch cut off for the front sight, what I was saying is that, they can machine work the brake to slide over the barrel of the gun, after you push the front sight back to leave space for the muzzle brake. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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