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Adjusting the sights


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I've fired 200 or so rounds thru the new Saiga already and now I'm wondering about the adjustment of the sights.

 

I've been able to get my groups close to horizontal accuracy by sliding the ramp sight a click or two.

 

Stupid question no. 1 : What do the numbers on the ramp represent, and where should the clamp end up? Also, I have seen replacement sights with a windage adjustment, but short of buying one of those, is there any lateral (right to left) adjustment available for the rear sights?

 

Stupid question no. 2: And what about the front sight? I have seen the little socketwrench type tool offered for sale at $30, is that the ONLY way to adjust this?

And it is just a threaded post, right? So is this just raising/lowering the point of aim?

 

The upshot is this, I am punching golfball size holes in my targets, nice tight groups. But, the golfball is located about 10:00....

How do I move it down and right about 2 inches to hit bullseye?

 

thanks for helping the new guy....

Pharmer

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Howdy and welcome to the board. I haven't bothered to find out what the numbered scale on the rear sight corresponds to yet but someone else will probably tell us. I fiqured I'd find out as I work my back farther than I can actually see at the range..lol.

 

You'll need one of those C clamp looking front sight tools to adjust the front sight left or right to get the windage adjusted. If you look at the front of the front sight you'll see the "zero" mark so you can see how far you are pressing the sight left or right. The tool also comes with a socket type end for adjusting the front sight up and down for your elevation adjustment(fine tuning). Link below shows the tool. Beware of quality..the one I bought pressed the sight to the left but self destructed while turning the front sight down. Cheap metal.

 

Move your front sight opposite the way you need the impact..front sight up and left.

 

http://www.tapco.com/product_information.a...dept=40&last=40

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The numbers stand for 100,200,300 meters. So if you only have a range in yards it won't hurt anything to set the sights for 100,200,300 yards instead of meters. As 100 meters is 109.4 yards and you are not shooting a rifle capable of sub 1 inch groups anyway. The difference in the amount the bullet drops in the extra 9.4 yards is so small you won't be able to measure it.

Set a target up at 25 yards set the rear sight on the 1 setting and leave it there. Then get your cleaning kit out. There is a tool that has a screwdriver blade on on end and a notch on the other. The notch slips on the front sight post to screw it in or out. Screwing it out raises the front sight post but lowers the impact of the bullet. Screwing it in lowers the front sight post but raises the impact of the bullet.

The drum the front sight post screws into can be knocked either way to adjust the windage(left or right). Which ever way you move it the bullet impact will be the oppsite. The cost effective(cheap) way to do this is to use a hammer and punch. Slip a fired 22lr case over the end of a 3/16" punch to protect finish of the rifle. Then just tap it with a hammer. The first time you move it will require a pretty good hit to get it moving. But once it moves only light taps will be needed to move it.

Once you have the sights adjusted and your groups are hitting the center of the bullseye screw the front sight in so the bullets hit 1" high above the bullseye. Then move your target to 100 yards and you will hit the bullseye at that distance. A tweek or two may be needed screwing the front sight post in or out to get the bullets hitting the exact center of the bullseye.

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Hey J A--Glad to see there is someone else who has used a hammer and punch to adjust the front sight for windage. I've had some wierd looks at the range when I used a framing hammer on the front end. Only trouble is sometimes it moves the sight a bit more than you want so your back going the opposite side.

PHARMER--Best bet is the C-Clamp device made for adjusting the front sights of the AK and SK's descriped above in other replies. After years of doing the cave man stuff I broke down and spent 9 or 10 bucks for the tool and part of my life has gotten a whole lot better.

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