Rabu 0 Posted January 3, 2013 Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 Okay, so I bought this FSB on gunbroker, for 40 bucks, and the guy said he tried to drill the rear hole out without the sight on the barrel, so I thought "Meh, can't be too bad" and bought it, I got the thing in and upon looking at it it I found a very ugly drill job, but in my excitement of wanting a finished Saiga, I went ahead and hammered it on anyway, It's lined up and sighted in and working fantastically, and now is the point where I pin it. Or would like to. I'm at a crossroads here on this hole and I'm absolutely driving myself mad trying to decide what to do, so I ask you gents. I've formulated 2 options. One, Fill the rear hole with high temp-JB Weld and just leave it as such after a painting and just drill and pin the front. or; Drill the barrel out and wing it, filling the gap with the aforementioned High-temp JB Weld and do the front as well. So...as you can see the rear hole is not only reamed out BIG TIME, it's also crooked. My OCD is tingling and at this point I'd sooner buy another unmollested one just to get the look I want, I'm big on things being "proper" so... even though I know there's no way this thing would move with just the front hole pinned, it drives me a little nuts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dad2142Dad 6,559 Posted January 3, 2013 Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 If you are OCD, just get a new one and chock this up as a mistake. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rabu 0 Posted January 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 Yeah...I was hoping to avoid that, but I will if I need to, I suppose I'm looking for more a reason to do this other than "IT LOOKS UGLY!" unfortunately... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akastormi 617 Posted January 3, 2013 Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 Personally.... I would drill the barrel and find a finishing nail to use as the pin. Hammer/Mushroom the ends to fill the odd shaped holes. It's not like a part your gonna take off numerous times. Do with what you got.... or... Get another.... or... Weld it on through the holes. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BigChongus 765 Posted January 3, 2013 Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 If you're okay with just the front pin being in, I'd pop it off and just weld irregular holes, regrind flush and paint. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rabu 0 Posted January 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 If you're okay with just the front pin being in, I'd pop it off and just weld irregular holes, regrind flush and paint. I was considering this... Is there an easy way to get these off without damaging them...I don't have a press, as mentioned. Getting it on was cake, it took me 5 minutes total, but getting it off....seems like it'd be a different story. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BigChongus 765 Posted January 3, 2013 Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 (edited) Use a press to push the FSB off. EDIT: I'm retarded. Didn't see that you did not have a press. You could try heating it and tapping it off with a non-marring hammer. Only other option I can think of is to try to very carefully use a bearing puller, which aren't too expensive. Edited January 3, 2013 by W8lifter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rabu 0 Posted January 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 Yeah, I'll figure it out, thanks guys, it'll come off one way or another. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BigChongus 765 Posted January 3, 2013 Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 Just tried a quick rig with my own. Don't see why it wouldn't work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
opto_isolator 3 Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 I asked a question similar to this earlier that got ignored. Looking at the block, it appears the drill bit walked, which is why the hole is sloppy. I saw a thread on AR15 where a guy used a mill bit from a dremel to flatten out the barrel to prevent the bit from walking. Kudos for the bearing puller idea - that is good. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,368 Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 (edited) It's pretty amazing what people can do when they lack patience. I agree that the best route is to remove the block and weld. But, the forward pin would be enough to anchor the block. If you wanted to, you could do the forward pin, finish up drilling the rear pin channel, and then fill the rear pin channel's wallowed holes with JB Weld. Just run a toothpick through the rear pin channel before dropping in the JB Weld to provide an indication of where the pin channel is. After the JB Weld has cured, snap off both ends of the toothpick and simply drill through it to clear the channel back out, then use a file or sand paper to dress up the JB Weld however you need it to make the area appear flush. It should not be noticeable after a small dusting coat of matching spray paint, and with a pin installed, you should end up with an FSB that looks like it was correctly drilled end to end.. Best option? No, but just giving you an alternate idea if you want to avoid pulling the FSB off again. It appears that the previous guy didn't drill the rear channel all the way through. This means that there will still be tension on the pin in the center of the FSB pin channel, even if it's over a smaller area. Edited January 4, 2013 by mancat Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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