FTE and Failure to load on MD DRUM

[jared3390 7]

well after i had my gas ports opened up, i went from 98 out of 100 FTE to about only 5 out of 100 FTE from my 10 round mags

 

Now i have a MD booster puck and the gunsmith who opened my has ports said i have 4 even though i only see 3 when i look in gas tube from gas plug threads, but he opened them to .093 as the fourms had suggested

 

I seem to get the same amount of FTE from 7 1/2 birdshot of Federal,Remington, and winchester

 

But to my main question, why do i have so many FTE on the MD 20 round drum and sometimes the following shell will not load into the tube correctly and cause the next round to slightly leave the mag and then i have to open the bolt and pull it out by hand because they both get stuck. I generally get 5-6 FTE or failure to loads on the DRUM. for 5-6 out of 20

 

since i am still getting some FTE on my 10 round mags even with gas ports opened and booster puck, and constantly having trouble with the DRUM what should i do since i already have gas ports open and opened gas ports to .093, i have put over 250 rounds of birdshot 3 dram down the tube and about 30 buckshot

 

Is getting the bolt polished by pauly my last option? and if i do, will it help me out much in this situtation?

 

 

 

 

[bobabuee 29]

I had same problem I have 4 port gun .093 drilled ports ,fte's then added css puck it got better then added css

PERFORMANCE Recoil Spring for all Saiga Shotguns
SKU: SPRING-#1

smoothing the carrier and bolt hammer helps too now I get couple fte's its livable.

 

you can polish carrier, bolt ,rails etc.. just look at wear marks on each item and where paint is wore off that tells you where it dragging, keeping

cycling bolt by hand I haven't polished anything yet but have grinded with 3m rloc discs on air die grinder which take metal off the metal lightly and polish at same time. do little at time and you save yourself 3 to 6 months waiting for your stuff to get done. I grind polish my stuff then hit it with cheap flat black spray paint very thin coat, then hand cycle bolt carrier ect.. see where it drag's grind polish some more. you feel it getting better and better. before shoot it remove flat black paint with acetone or brake clean grease up carrier rails receiver rails and you will see big difference I use extreme pressure moly grease from wally world works great.

good luck

[travistp 63]

Ok jared .. a few things .. one

 

#1

3 ports = .093

4 ports = .073 (that usually gets them running just right.. but abunch of well known and smart people on these forums suggest 5/64th drill which would put you around .078.)

 

#2

Drill out the gas block which is obviously obstructing the "4 ports". If you only have 3 on a 4 port gun. Your gunsmith didnt correctly solve the entire problem. Open that gas block hole to 11/32??? Might look into that ill get back and edit when I find out but its relatively close to thr hole you have to drill from. Make sure not to hit the thread undercut in the gas tube.. now you SHOULD have more gas ports showing if not then you need to take pictures. BEING that he opened 4 ports to .093 you will probably be over gassed and need to look into a manual 6 setting gas plug, or a autoplug. I WOULD not use the standard gas adjustment knob as it is will not help distribute your over gas system. That being said if its 4 ports at .093. I would can the booster puck as its not longer needed and stock puck will work Fine now that you are heavily gassed.

 

#3. If you havent polished or profiled. Take your bcg out and look for wear spots on the rails in the receiver. . If there is rubbing marks I would take sand paper and smooth those spots out to wear ot scrapes paint where it hasnt touched. Then I would go ahead and wirebrush the rails clean of paint and attack it with fine grit sandpaper slowly and put a nice smooth finish on it. Then the bottom of the bolt carrier.. round those angles off into radius' and dont take too much off. I used a hand dremel and round then worked with 400-600 grit paper slooowwwwlly with your hand and smooth ot out. You can remove material on the hammer where the bcg slides over but try not to hit the striking service. I did my lighty anyways and still hits the firing pin flush enough. That will help out a lot.

 

Any questions ask and all your answers have been answered before on this forumn.

 

I had same problem I have 4 port gun .093 drilled ports ,fte's then added css puck it got better then added css

PERFORMANCE Recoil Spring for all Saiga ShotgunsSKU: SPRING-#1

smoothing the carrier and bolt hammer helps too now I get couple fte's its livable.

 

you can polish carrier, bolt ,rails etc.. just look at wear marks on each item and where paint is wore off that tells you where it dragging, keeping

cycling bolt by hand I haven't polished anything yet but have grinded with 3m rloc discs on air die grinder which take metal off the metal lightly and polish at same time. do little at time and you save yourself 3 to 6 months waiting for your stuff to get done. I grind polish my stuff then hit it with cheap flat black spray paint very thin coat, then hand cycle bolt carrier ect.. see where it drag's grind polish some more. you feel it getting better and better. before shoot it remove flat black paint with acetone or brake clean grease up carrier rails receiver rails and you will see big difference I use extreme pressure moly grease from wally world works great.

good luck

The recoil spring is NOT recommended for heavy 2-3/4 loads or hot highbrass birdies and NEVER use that spring with 3" magnums. I use the stock spring. Css puck and dph gas adjustment knob. Shoots everything. Lowbrass on 4 and 5. Occasional rounds of winchester bulk or federal 1 oz loads might have a problem ejecting I would say 5 out of 250. I could crank the knob to 6 but im happy where its at.

 

You shouldnt need a spring to get it running goos honestly. Thats jerryriggin the problem.

Edited May 24, 2013 by travistp

[bobabuee 29]

Ok jared .. a few things .. one

 

#1

3 ports = .093

4 ports = .073 (that usually gets them running just right.. but abunch of well known and smart people on these forums suggest 5/64th drill which would put you around .078.)

 

#2

Drill out the gas block which is obviously obstructing the "4 ports". If you only have 3 on a 4 port gun. Your gunsmith didnt correctly solve the entire problem. Open that gas block hole to 11/32??? Might look into that ill get back and edit when I find out but its relatively close to thr hole you have to drill from. Make sure not to hit the thread undercut in the gas tube.. now you SHOULD have more gas ports showing if not then you need to take pictures. BEING that he opened 4 ports to .093 you will probably be over gassed and need to look into a manual 6 setting gas plug, or a autoplug. I WOULD not use the standard gas adjustment knob as it is will not help distribute your over gas system. That being said if its 4 ports at .093. I would can the booster puck as its not longer needed and stock puck will work Fine now that you are heavily gassed.

 

#3. If you havent polished or profiled. Take your bcg out and look for wear spots on the rails in the receiver. . If there is rubbing marks I would take sand paper and smooth those spots out to wear ot scrapes paint where it hasnt touched. Then I would go ahead and wirebrush the rails clean of paint and attack it with fine grit sandpaper slowly and put a nice smooth finish on it. Then the bottom of the bolt carrier.. round those angles off into radius' and dont take too much off. I used a hand dremel and round then worked with 400-600 grit paper slooowwwwlly with your hand and smooth ot out. You can remove material on the hammer where the bcg slides over but try not to hit the striking service. I did my lighty anyways and still hits the firing pin flush enough. That will help out a lot.

 

Any questions ask and all your answers have been answered before on this forumn.

 

I had same problem I have 4 port gun .093 drilled ports ,fte's then added css puck it got better then added css

PERFORMANCE Recoil Spring for all Saiga ShotgunsSKU: SPRING-#1

smoothing the carrier and bolt hammer helps too now I get couple fte's its livable.

 

you can polish carrier, bolt ,rails etc.. just look at wear marks on each item and where paint is wore off that tells you where it dragging, keeping

cycling bolt by hand I haven't polished anything yet but have grinded with 3m rloc discs on air die grinder which take metal off the metal lightly and polish at same time. do little at time and you save yourself 3 to 6 months waiting for your stuff to get done. I grind polish my stuff then hit it with cheap flat black spray paint very thin coat, then hand cycle bolt carrier ect.. see where it drag's grind polish some more. you feel it getting better and better. before shoot it remove flat black paint with acetone or brake clean grease up carrier rails receiver rails and you will see big difference I use extreme pressure moly grease from wally world works great.

good luck

The recoil spring is NOT recommended for heavy 2-3/4 loads or hot highbrass birdies and NEVER use that spring with 3" magnums. I use the stock spring. Css puck and dph gas adjustment knob. Shoots everything. Lowbrass on 4 and 5. Occasional rounds of winchester bulk or federal 1 oz loads might have a problem ejecting I would say 5 out of 250. I could crank the knob to 6 but im happy where its at.

 

You shouldnt need a spring to get it running goos honestly. Thats jerryriggin the problem.

 

ya ,he & I were talking low brass walmart ammo and such not good stuff that stuff use stock spring and stock puck. cheap ammo = fte's

[travistp 63]

i shoot cheap ammo all day long with dph knob,css puck.. ports drilled right throw it on 5 and im rocking, even out of my md arms drum.