Seeking advice on tactical conversion for Saiga 410

[CruisinTx2 49]

Since things are a bit slow in the 410 section I'm cross-posting this here. I am curious about the conversion kits/parts available.  First off, I am very new to the Saiga shotgun world.  I only got my 410 in Feb. 2014.  That said, I'd like to hear opinions on the various conversions seen here (in the 410 section) as far as ease of installation and functionality.  I'm simply hoping to get some education in order to make a more informed choice when buying and installing a kit.  I really only have two requirements (wants): 1. adjustable stock (my wife and I both have pretty short arms), 2. comfortable pistol grip.  I don't need anything fancy or elaborate.  I have never done any kind of gun conversion like this, so I am pretty much a blank slate in the learning curve here.  I don't want to spend a lot of money and only need the conversion to make the 410 more manageable with the shorter stock and pistol grip as a home defense weapon.  I already have two 15-round magazines for it and have been through a good deal of break-in anxiety as some of you may have seen in the thread I started called, Is there a consensus on failure to eject problems?. ( http://forum.saiga-1...eject-problems/).  I found this  kit ( http://www.carolinas...le-2-t6-5pc.htm ) on Carolina Shooters Supply web site and am comfortable with the pricing but likely need some guidance on the installation.  Share your wisdom with this newbie.

[forsaken352 235]

Alright, let's start from the top. I'm going to be posting a video for you to watch on a .410 conversion, and I'm gonna include a few things to take note of. I highly suggest finding other videos as well of Saiga conversions to get different angles and you'll learn quickly just how easy it is!

 

The first thing you want to be sure of is your confident you can perform the conversion, which is very simple to do, so long as you have a few basic hand tools. You're going to need at least a drill with a 3/16" bit, a punch a little smaller than the drill bit, a flat head screwdriver, needle nose pliers come in handy, but for some things I use a dental pick with a hook on the end (not required), and a dremel tool with a triangular grinding bit can sometimes come in handy, but you can use the drill. A bench vice with some sort of padding to secure the gun is very useful. You'll probably need something to grind/file the side of the new Tapco G2 hammer to use with the bolt hold open. You can use a file, but it'll take a little while and you want to be sure to keep the surface as even as possible and don't go too far.  Also, you'll need something to coat the bottom of the receiver with after you remove the sporter plate as it will be unfinished. I use high temp black spray paint from autozone (Duplicolor Hi Temp Ceramic Engine Enamel in low gloss).

 

Now, during the video, he didn't do it, but obviously begin by checking the firearm and make sure it's not loaded. At 4:20 in the video, you'll hear him say to knock out the remaining 2 pins, but before you do, there is a spring holding the bolt hold open lever on the right side (while looking down the barrel) of the receiver. Pinch the bolt hold open lever against the receiver using your fingers, then remove the remaining axis pins. Then, slowly pull the bolt hold open lever away from the receiver and out making sure not to lose the spring. Next, he didn't show it, but to remove the safety lever, just rotate it up (it will be at roughly a 90 degree angle to the receiver) and pull it out (it can only go one direction).

 

Next, you'll see (after all the fire control components are removed and it's a blank receiver) he's talking about drilling 3 rivets. What he didn't mention is that you don't drill all the way through your receiver using the bit. You're simply trying to pop the heads off of the rivets. Drill as centered on each rivet as possible until you can see a bit of a difference in the metal, and you should be able to use a punch and break it loose. Some can be a bit stubborn, and I've found a chisel can sometimes work, but just do what you think necessary for your situation without destroying your firearm. You'll also notice the 3rd rivet (at the rear of the receiver) is blocked by the rear trunnion. You will be drilling down through the hole that your stock screw goes into and it's aligned with the rivet. You'll see it.

 

During reassembly, he uses loctite on the trigger guard. If you ever want to get it back off for any reason, I suggest blue loctite. Also, he uses spray paint to coat the unfinished receiver. As mentioned above I use Duplicolor Hi Temp Ceramic Engine Enamel in low gloss, but you may want to have your shotgun finished using something else. It's up to you, but I find the Engine Enamel is almost a perfect match to the original finish. If you choose to spray, be sure to remove all oils from the area and do not touch it bare handed afterwards. Next, the stock in the kit from CSS will have to have the stock screw holes drilled. There will be a drill bit included. Very simple, just be sure to get it nice and snug against the receiver, then drill being careful to not drill crooked. First, however, I would assemble the fire control group components. In the video he does not cover reinstallation, so I'll include a second video of reinstallation for you.

 

First video covering conversion. Watch in whole before attempting the conversion, then use it as a guide as needed.

 

 

Second video covering reinstallation of the Tapco G2 fire control group. At 4:53 of this video, he uses a retaining spring for the axis pins. The kit from CSS uses a plate (much easier to install). You simply put the front of the plate onto the hammer axis pin, sit the middle notch of the plate on the trigger axis pin, then install the safety into the hole of the plate.

 

Good luck! Have fun with it! Post pictures when it's done!

Edited December 30, 2014 by forsaken352

[CruisinTx2 49]

thank you!

[forsaken352 235]

Anything I can do to help! Any more questions, don't hesitate to ask.