evi1joe

Yeah, I sanded down where the hammer was hanging on the disconnect/sear (?) and polished that, then I went and polished the disconnect (sear?) where it catches the hammer. Problem solved. Can't get it to catch no matter how slow I release it....did 100 cycles and as slow as possible. STILL--why would it start doing this on the 3rd outing?! That's what baffles me...and worries me. Someone said Arsenal 2-stage triggers were notorious for reset issues and recommended a single stage. Anyone ever heard that? It is a bit gritty on taking up the slack.

It just started doing this (third outing) and can be duplicated by hand. If you let off the trigger fast IT DOES RESET, BUT if you ride it at all, it doesn't reset. ALSO, if you push on the trigger pin, it resets--if the trigger pin is pushed to the right a bit when it's set, you just push it to the left, if you push it to the left a bit, you just push it to the right (it DEFAULTS to having to push from right to left (from back of rifle looking forward)). BUT if it IS the INTERFACE of hammer/trigger, then WHY did it just BEGIN to do this on his 3rd range trip? (Maybe he was not easing o

New, the cheapest I can find is $49 shipped (MD Arms) or $54 shipped (CSS). Looking to pay less for a take-off. Thanks, Joe F. CONTACT -- JFLOW25@GMAIL.COM Can pay USPS MO or discreet PP

$47 SHIPPED LNIB Leupold Quick Release Weaver Style (QRW) HIGH Rings in 30MM (model 49865). * SEE TWO PICS BELOW * These were mounted once on my TAC30 and AK but decided to just get a one piece even though these look great on the AK with a 1X-4X (I'll need something higher for the AR and don't want to have to switch mounts). They cost me $66.99 shipped, but OpticsPlanet has a policy where they won't take returns if you've mounted them; even though I doubt they could tell they've been mounted, I'd rather just take a hit than take advantage of a good company. Selling for $47 shipp

I removed everything except some stuff not touching anything folded, and it's definitely locking up better, but still not fully seating like it had been...I wonder if I messed it up by trying to close it with the foam (wouldn't think the steel would have bent or the tolerances would have been shifted--but who knows).

It's tight on the receiver--both screws are blue-loctited in. It locks open pretty solid (though it seems to have a bit of play that I'd never noticed before); however, closing it causes the button to only come back out 2/3rds to 3/4ths of the way, and though it definitely is catching, the slightest bit of pressure will pull it open (it stays closed for the most part--I'd have to try hard to get it to fly open on its own).

Unfortunately, I don't want to remove it if I don't have to until I have some screws that will fit it (the ones in it are half stripped AND loctited in there). I was just wondering if the tiny hole on the bottom was for lubrication purposes OR if this was a common thing that was an easy fix (without filing down any metal). It worked fine for months...but just started this issue when I was putting a foam pad on it as a cheek rest...it seemed to fold all the way (the rubber recoil pad was touching the side of the receiver), but it wouldn't lock up.

My push-button wire folder locks open with just a slight wobble, but won't lock closed all the way (it seems locked, but if I pull on it the slightest bit, it opens). The button starts to pop out, but won't pop fully out when I close it (it does when in the open position). Any ideas?

I don't think so. I never tried or mounted anything on it. It's *SPF*

I just got 2 of these to try out. My initial impression is that they seem super tough and I like the design and weight. However, neither one of them will lock into my Arsenal SGL20 unless I really slam them hard and pull on the mag-catch...there's no discernible click like with the circle 10s. Is anyone else finding them to be a bit hard to lock up?

Yeah, I've seen the bolton gas-block or similar ones sold online. Fuller cut it down and did the perm-attached muzzle-brake as well. It really lightened up the front end (and as soon as I move the Eotech XPS back a bit, it'll be even lighter and faster). My only complaint is the lack of a cheek-weld, BUT I've heard tubing or paracord wrapping helps...and I do have a wire-cheek-piece that would help. It was evidently a bit gassy, so he put the holes in the ultimak...either way, it now shoots as soft or softer than my AR (which definitely had more muzzle-blast from what I could tell from sit

It's just a bulgarian (romanian?) push-button...with the US Made grenade-launcher-copy recoil pad on it--though it isn't necessary; the FSC47 and the wire stock absorb all the recoil. I'm going to put tubing OR 550 paracord on the wire-folder soon....though I have the cheek-piece wire mount as well--not sure if I'm going to use it or sell it. I tried to site her in at 100yds yesterday, but using various ammo and other issues kept me at a 6-8" group. I'd like to get that down to a 3-4" group. Anyone know how low or high I'd be at 10, 25, and 50yrds with a 100yd zero? NOTE: I recog

The v-tac light mount is too high (even though I can see the top 1/5th of the sight post), so it looks like I'll have to spend the $$ for a vltor offset. pics-->

STNLS1911 FOR THE WIN!!! My ergo grip was catching on the top-side-edge of the trigger and not letting it reset forward. This makes perfect sense because I put the ergo grip on AFTER I got the gun back--the only change I made; that explains why it shot fine during the two test fires the smith did (before and after the parkerizing). THANKS so much!! I was just looking up taking the fire control group out and reinstalling it--now I just have to cut/file away some rubber. Stansplace--the trigger sure doesn't have a lot of wiggle room between it and the receiver...I suppose that's g

He installed the bolton-gas-block-front sight, shortened the barrel and pinned an FSC47 on it, and drilled some holes in the ultimak-gas-tube because "it was a little gassy." UPDATE: Okay, here's what's happening. When I fire the gun and hold the trigger to the rear after it cycles, THEN I release the trigger to let it reset, but it's NOT resetting...IF I give it a little push, then it resets, but by itself, it seems not to want to reset. There is a slight bend in the krebs retainer plate, but I don't think that's causing it. Any idea what it could be--I'll look at the springs late

I'll check the hooks. Thanks.

After every shot, I had to eject the next one (OR sometimes I could just pull the bolt back a bit and let it slam forward) to get it to fire. Otherwise it would do nothing (the trigger didn't even reset). It JUST CAME BACK from a top AK gunsmith...it DID have a bunch of grease or gunk in it (whitish to very light blue stuff). Should I have cleaned it first? I assumed it'd clean itself after a few rounds. I did take out the carrier and the bolt came out. Could I have reinstalled the bolt incorrectly and caused this problem? I had a hard time getting it to go back in (will look onlin

PRICE DROP -- $ 69 shipped (paid via pp) $73 USPS MO. KVAR KV-04 side mount (installed once or twice with no scope on it––never shot...basically NIB) $69 shipped. Email and PP account is: JFLOW25@GMAIL.COM great reviews at arfcom as "EVILJOE" and ebay as "EVI1JOE" (the L is a number 1). ** NOTE: this item is cross-posted, however, I'll go by time-stamp and sell to first taker.

Though I've never heard anything but great stuff about the G2, and mixed reviews on the kvar/arsenal ("trigger slap", etc), I've recently had a very famous AK gunsmith tell me he'd seen/had problems with G2s and would stick with the kvar/arsenal trigger groups. So far I've had one texas double hook and a G2, but have a kvar/arsenal on the way. I didn't notice too much difference, except I think I liked the feel of the G2 a little better but it may have been the gun. That said, I was more accurate with the gun with the texas DH trigger, so who knows.

That SGM tri-rail will need to be dremeled down a bit--and it's a messy job b/c the dremel melts it a bit (and hard to go in a straight line--for me anyway, but I was using a grinding stone NOT a cutting tool). I'm leaning towards bolting a side rail to the KVAR or getting the CAA47--which I hear DOESN'T NEED MODIFICATION (can someone confirm/deny this?) and adding a makeshift heat-shield (tin-foil? aluminum? kevlar?) OR spending $99 and buying the new one at Kalinka that looks like the CAA47 but comes with a heat-shield (see link). http://www.kalinkaoptics.com/firearm-accessories/ak-vepr-

Yeah, the offset mount was my plan--I just thought a side mount would get the flashlight lower and more out of my line of sight (not that I've EVER used a flashlight on a long-gun...I just keep hearing and reading that it really is a good thing, and it makes sense to light up your target before you 'light it up'). My plan is to put it on the right side, but all the offset mounts seem to put it at 2 o'clock (a it above and to the right of the ultimak--I'd rather it be a little lower than the ultimak). Anyone know of an offset mount that reaches out and down a bit?

I've been away for awhile, and was wondering if there were any new railed lower hand-guards on the market making waves? I saw these at Kalinka (the AK-VS & Saiga Forend), but don't know if it would fit under my ultimak; I love the idea of a CAA 47 with a steel heat-shield. http://www.kalinkaoptics.com/firearm-accessories/ak-vepr-saiga-slr/ak-vs-and-saiga-forend.html Any ideas? It's for my new Arsenal SGL20.

Three reasons I currently have a Romanian Push-button wire folder on one of my Arsenal SGL20s: 1) It fits in a tennis bag, an old musical instrument (trumpet?) case, and also in the small storage space under the carpet in the back of my truck (might fit under the seat, never tried). 2) It might be easier to maneuver in a dark house with it folded--I know my glock 19 would be even easier, but I just like the 7.62x39 with Corbon 150gr or 108gr going over 2000ft/s more than a 9mm pushing 147gr at 950ft/s. 3) Lastly, and this may be my imagination, but the wire-folder SEEMED to absorb some of

ah, so arsenal doesn't FILE the catch down...hrmmm...yeah, must just be NEW tight mags that fit tight. thanks.