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fritzthemoose

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Posts posted by fritzthemoose

  1. Best way to check this is insert a rd into the mag, preferably a dummy rd. Insert mag into gun. Pull the bolt to the rear and slowly let it down until it contacts the rear of the shell. There is a small tang that hangs down from the bolt. You want the rim of the shell to contact the bolt halfway up or higher. Continue to tweak the rear of the feed lips outward until the shell sits at the desired height. Be sure and look at the relationship between the distance of the front of the feed lips to the distance of the rear of the feed lips before starting. If the fronts do not travel out with the rear you will have problems with the bolt closing and going into battery due to the stiffness of stripping off a rd. This is especially true for those running a low power recoil spring. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any further issues. Contact me if you have any questions while tuning. Thanks

     

     

    Joshua Loganbill

    573-378-9070

     

    Joshua, what do you mean with the fronts traveling out with the rear. I have this issue with not going into battery

  2. Dirty op rod piston dragging not returning fully into gas block

     

    Funny thing is I did test it for 150 rounds in our shooting cellar. No issues.

    First 4 Stages in the morning. No issues

    From the 5th to the 8th stage it got worse and worse although I cleaned it twice in between

    Dismanteled it completely in the hotel, cleaned it lubed it and first stage next day as mentioned above 30 to 40% not closing.

     

    Stopped the match.

     

    On the way home stopped at our shooting cellar. Got the gun out of the car shot 50 rounds without issue.

    Shot another 50 with 3 not closing.

     

    No idea why but the temperature difference between the cellar and outdoor which is between 15 and 20 Celsius seems to make a big difference. No idea why tho. Maybe more gas in the cellar because colder and the bolt moving further back and in doing so giving more forward momentum???

     

    My main problem is that with the standard spring I can maybe shoot 50 rounds before the gun is so dirty that it starts shortstroking. But no closing problems.

    With the weaker spring no shortstroking whatsover but not closing after around 50 rounds at least outside.

     

    So I would need a spring somewhere in between but that would only eliminate the symphtom but not the cause and I am completely lost on what the cause is exactly

  3. Dirty op rod piston dragging not returning fully into gas block

     

    Thats what I thought too. So I am cleaning every 3 stages or so. Did clean it next stage it happened again. Did completely dismantel it in the hotel cleaned it and lubed it. First stage the next morning 30 to 40% not closing. Gun was completerly clean.

  4. Anyone has them too?

     

    I used to have shortstrokes a lot. Changed to a weaker spring problem solved. But not I have closing problems.

     

    Bolt will fall short of closing just a little bid. Pulling trigger, trigger falls and of course nothing happens.

     

    Funny thing is that it happens after 4 stages or so. No problems in the first 4 stages but then something like 1 in 3 or 4 rounds.

     

    Its not a cleaning problem tested that. Gun is oiled. Not a problem of parts brushing each other either.

     

    Only explanation I have is outside temperature as in the cellar it works in the morning it works too. However, no idea why a change in outside temperature of 10 to 15 degrees will cause that. So maybe something different all together.

     

    Anyone having same issues?

     

  5. no did not do it but good idea. However, I did shoot more or less hole on hole whereever the impact was so dont think its me. But can try yes.

     

    Moving the dot is also worth a try.

  6. If its just heat I am a little bid surprised that it already comes after lets say 30 rounds. But then again normally I start cold at a stage and it would therefore only affect the last rounds and then only if they are long distant slugs on a small target.

     

    If its the locking nut I just thigten it every 3 stages or so and before a slug stage.

     

    Was just wondering if anyone else has experienced the same.

     

    I do have a XN model with a full metal lower too but its not yet running meaning the first matches this year will have to be with the old one. Next week is Venice Shotgun Match and there will be 6 stationary clays with slugs from 15 to 25m,. Would hate to have 6 miss before I even start lol. Its the same range where the world shoot will be this September so I do expect there to be clays with slugs again. Not sure if I have the new one running until Sep.

     

    Was just wondering if anyone has experienced the same.  If yes, it would support my theory

  7. Hi,

     

    for quite some time I infrequently have a shift of zero.

     

    I did some testing and checking and the reddot is fixed.

     

    As I am using a reddot I dont think its a paralax error which I could not explain on the short shotgun distances anyway.

     

    It is not removing the barrel as I did it serval times put it back in and no appearant shift of zero.

     

    However, after shooting like 25 to 30 rounds in quick successin simulating a long course the shots are shifting low and right. More right than low. On 20m like 3cm low and around 5 right.

     

    Not so much a problem when shooting bird buck or slugs on the normal target. But enough to miss a clay with a slug or a popper on longer distances.

     

    If I let the gun cool down its shifting again to the original zero.

     

    So its defenitely a heat issue.

     

    Anyone experienced the same????

     

    I am also not sure if the thightness of the locking nut has any impact too.

     

    I am using a pre-XN model and the locking nut and the counter nut come loose sooner or later. Not really loose after 25 to 30 rounds but maybe just a little bid less thight changing the swinging habit of the barrel?

     

    Not sure about that just some thinking.

     

    Anyway, anyone experiencing something like it?

     

     

  8. Okay, my damned locking block just broke.  I need another'n like the rest of y'all.  FRITZTHEMOOSE, what contact info do you have for Turkey do you have?

     

    if its pre-xn gp rifle in sweden is doing locking blocks. had one of mine break too and got it from them. gustav is a nice guy just google gustaf person rifle.  or xn-arms directly got all my parts within a week two tops but I am in Austria so might take longer in the US. Not sure if you require import permit tho. I dont at least not for parts like that.

  9. Just get them from Turkey. I had the locking block break at a match this year. Took around a week to get replacement from Turkey in this case for free. OK I am in Europe so things are easier but just try it why not also in the US unless some US regulation prevents you from importing a bolt.

  10. Hi,

     

    I do have some cycling issues for quite some time.

     

    Originally I was using the factory main spring and the gun was running perfect for around 4 ot 5 stages meaning 50 to 70 rounds. Then it was starting to shortstroke around 3 to 4 rounds out of 10. More or less unshootable from that moment on. The same thing happend over and over again and always around at the same round count. With harder loads it was the same just a few rounds later.

     

    I have to say that I am using a middbarrel and I did open the gasports so that its running with 28g.

     

    Then I changed to the weaker spring. From that point on for around 500 to 600 rounds it was running without any issues cycling even high power 24g

     

    Then I got closing issues. The bolt would not close completely. falling 1mm or a fraction of a mm short. Hammer will still fall but not strike the primer. This too happening after around 30 to 40 rounds.

     

    We did check the gun and she is not dragging somwhere eg we removed everything where she was dragging and polished it.

     

    In my opinion its a dirt issue. I was starting with a clean gun but when I dismantel it after ist starts to jam there is considerable dirt in there and the piston is very hard to remove. There is also a ring of dirt on the guide rod on the muzzle side of the piston. There is also some dirt in the cylinder that houses the piston but nothing out of the ordinary in my opintion.

     

    I am a little bid lost as this dirt seems to build up fast even when starting with a cleaned gun.

     

    Also whey I could shoot 500 to 600 without issues while having the same cleaning regime.

     

    Also my piston seems to be quite thight even when clean and when dirty it takes some power to remove.

     

    Do you need, with a clean gun, to push the piston in the cylinder or ist it falling in more or less?

     

    My requirement is that the gun runs without cleaning for lets say around 120 round. That will give me a complete small match or brings me into lunch break of a bigger one when I have time to clean it.

     

    Anyone, else has this issue?

     

    I am sure that if I go back to the factory spring I will not have the closing issues but the short stroke issues again.

     

    i was thinking of cutting on coil fo the factory spring hoping to have more closing power than the weak one but also less resistance then the factory one but have not done it yet.

     

    Any other suggestions?

  11. I have read some posts where the poster indicates the gun fires OK from the shoulder but not the hip.

    I have never heard of that with other firearms. What causes this?

     

    Neverhome

     

    holding it loose kills the impuls

  12. Thats pretty much how they come here out of the box. A kind of muzzle break and a choke but the choke is like close to 5 inch long so far too long. they dont even say which choke it is but from what I meassured its a modified

    post-35871-0-11461600-1366399809_thumb.jpg

  13. Is there no cameras where you live also ? Still no pics

     

    what do you want to see? its the same gun like in the states just with an outside thread at the end of the muzzle and not an internal one

     

    u are right i contacted a friend in sweden and he has an internal one too. here in austria and around austria all have external ones. no idea why. i guess i will have to go somewhere where they can measure the thread and then try to find a choke that works and if not buy a saiga one and have it rethraeded

     

    So far I don't think we can get replacement barrels for the MKA1919 here in the states. Is the situation the same in Austria and Sweden?

     

    Bill

     

    not sure have never asked for one yet but I guess it should not be a problem as they are coming out of Turkey. Might take ages tho I guess.

  14. All of these problems you guys are having resulting from modifications to the 1919 really make me glad I decided to

    keep mine 100% stock. As to date I have had zero problems and zero issues with mine.

    I am still waiting for some sound evidence to prove that an upgraded gun shoots any better than a stock one.rolleyes.gif

    Seeing how all the upgrades are purely cosmetic I don't see it happening.

    Well, I got to get back to counting all the money I have saved from staying stock ..012.gifbiggrin.png

     

    like jim wrote depends on what u want to do with it. i for my part am going for ipsc with it and there u are in open with a box magazine gun. so without modding it its a lost cause in a competition

  15. I don't know if you are a member on here, but they have lots of people from Europe http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=159702

    that shows standard chokes on a Swedish gun and I've seen plenty with them, so asking if they replaced barrels or how many have external and where to get chokes might be a good idea. (sorry to link offsight mods, just more international on brianenos)

     

    This is why I was confused when you first posted it, I haven't been on lately on enos, but remember seeing Euro MKAs and have the internal chokes. Could be a country specific thing? Or maybe XN model for Euro?

     

    tried searching about a zillion ways to see if I could find them for you man, not many results at all

    https://www.google.com/search?biw=1622&bih=652&q=european+mka-1919+external+choke&oq=european+mka-1919+external+choke&gs_l=serp.3..33i21.37999.38548.0.38690.5.5.0.0.0.0.123.410.3j2.5.0...0.0...1c.1.9.serp.3WvNjCQXibs

     

    u are right i contacted a friend in sweden and he has an internal one too. here in austria and around austria all have external ones. no idea why. i guess i will have to go somewhere where they can measure the thread and then try to find a choke that works and if not buy a saiga one and have it rethraeded

  16. I would send the barrel to someone, have the external part hacked and then rethread for internal chokes if it was me.

     

    Fritz is "on the other side of the pond". Cutting and re-threading the barrel might be a good idea as long as it does not make the barrel too short for his local laws & regulations. Depending on his location, he might have a good chance at purchasing a stock barrel with internal choke threads.

     

    Bill

     

    it would get too short yes barrel has to be 45cm at least but I guess it would be easier to take a Saiga choke and rethread it. on the ohter hand i am sure there are correct chokes out there just need to know which thread

  17. External chokes like saigas have? Maybe see if they are threaded alike

     

    External chokes like saigas have? Maybe see if they are threaded alike

     

    yes like saigas but the saiga one is a different thread so does not work

     

    Sounds like the European version of the shotgun (per rumors, I've never seen a picture of one).

     

    Have you contacted RAAC or checked the internet for any European parts suppliers? If chokes are not available, maybe (just maybe) RAAC will exchange barrels.

     

    Also, where did you get this? Just curious.

     

    Bill

     

     

    I am on the other side of the pond :) and we have only this model here at least i have never seen one with internal thread here in europe. bad thing is that no one seems to know what thread it is not even the importer. it comes with a muzzle break and a choke but the choke is like close to 5 inch and i dont want it to get that long

  18. External chokes like saigas have? Maybe see if they are threaded alike

     

    External chokes like saigas have? Maybe see if they are threaded alike

     

    yes like saigas but the saiga one is a different thread so does not work

  19. post a pic of yours, I'm not seeing anything, tried wording it several ways. There are such a thing as externally threaded muzzle breaks

     

    these are how I see chokes in the states. I get what you are saying, but ya not heard of such a thing before

    https://www.google.com/search?q=externally+threaded+choke&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&bvm=bv.45175338,d.eWU&biw=1433&bih=704&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=-e1pUazGF4Ou8ASk8YBA#um=1&hl=en&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=external+thread+shotgun+choke&oq=external+thread+shotgun+choke&gs_l=img.3...12922.16369.2.16609.6.6.0.0.0.0.32.173.6.6.0...0.0...1c.1.9.img.OhE08_H1Dvo&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&bvm=bv.45175338,d.eWU&fp=69e40ef68bd98096&biw=1433&bih=704

     

    the barrel is threaded on the inside, the chokes threads are on the outside

     

    i think u missunderstood me. there is an external thread on the front end of the barrel like for example you have with an ar15. there is no internal thread in the barrel. so what i need is an external choke and for that i would need to know which thread it is in order to get the correct choke

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