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About fritzthemoose

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  1. shooting 2 types both 28g so 1oz with one having 1300 and the ohter one having 1380fps
  2. Joshua, what do you mean with the fronts traveling out with the rear. I have this issue with not going into battery
  3. Funny thing is I did test it for 150 rounds in our shooting cellar. No issues. First 4 Stages in the morning. No issues From the 5th to the 8th stage it got worse and worse although I cleaned it twice in between Dismanteled it completely in the hotel, cleaned it lubed it and first stage next day as mentioned above 30 to 40% not closing. Stopped the match. On the way home stopped at our shooting cellar. Got the gun out of the car shot 50 rounds without issue. Shot another 50 with 3 not closing. No idea why but the temperature difference between the cellar and outdoor which is between 15 and 20 Celsius seems to make a big difference. No idea why tho. Maybe more gas in the cellar because colder and the bolt moving further back and in doing so giving more forward momentum??? My main problem is that with the standard spring I can maybe shoot 50 rounds before the gun is so dirty that it starts shortstroking. But no closing problems. With the weaker spring no shortstroking whatsover but not closing after around 50 rounds at least outside. So I would need a spring somewhere in between but that would only eliminate the symphtom but not the cause and I am completely lost on what the cause is exactly
  4. Thats what I thought too. So I am cleaning every 3 stages or so. Did clean it next stage it happened again. Did completely dismantel it in the hotel cleaned it and lubed it. First stage the next morning 30 to 40% not closing. Gun was completerly clean.
  5. Anyone has them too? I used to have shortstrokes a lot. Changed to a weaker spring problem solved. But not I have closing problems. Bolt will fall short of closing just a little bid. Pulling trigger, trigger falls and of course nothing happens. Funny thing is that it happens after 4 stages or so. No problems in the first 4 stages but then something like 1 in 3 or 4 rounds. Its not a cleaning problem tested that. Gun is oiled. Not a problem of parts brushing each other either. Only explanation I have is outside temperature as in the cellar it works in the morning it works too. However, no idea why a change in outside temperature of 10 to 15 degrees will cause that. So maybe something different all together. Anyone having same issues?
  6. no did not do it but good idea. However, I did shoot more or less hole on hole whereever the impact was so dont think its me. But can try yes. Moving the dot is also worth a try.
  7. sorry not familiar with that term. What is it?
  8. If its just heat I am a little bid surprised that it already comes after lets say 30 rounds. But then again normally I start cold at a stage and it would therefore only affect the last rounds and then only if they are long distant slugs on a small target. If its the locking nut I just thigten it every 3 stages or so and before a slug stage. Was just wondering if anyone else has experienced the same. I do have a XN model with a full metal lower too but its not yet running meaning the first matches this year will have to be with the old one. Next week is Venice Shotgun Match and there will be 6 stationary clays with slugs from 15 to 25m,. Would hate to have 6 miss before I even start lol. Its the same range where the world shoot will be this September so I do expect there to be clays with slugs again. Not sure if I have the new one running until Sep. Was just wondering if anyone has experienced the same. If yes, it would support my theory
  9. Hi, for quite some time I infrequently have a shift of zero. I did some testing and checking and the reddot is fixed. As I am using a reddot I dont think its a paralax error which I could not explain on the short shotgun distances anyway. It is not removing the barrel as I did it serval times put it back in and no appearant shift of zero. However, after shooting like 25 to 30 rounds in quick successin simulating a long course the shots are shifting low and right. More right than low. On 20m like 3cm low and around 5 right. Not so much a problem when shooting bird buck or slugs on the normal target. But enough to miss a clay with a slug or a popper on longer distances. If I let the gun cool down its shifting again to the original zero. So its defenitely a heat issue. Anyone experienced the same???? I am also not sure if the thightness of the locking nut has any impact too. I am using a pre-XN model and the locking nut and the counter nut come loose sooner or later. Not really loose after 25 to 30 rounds but maybe just a little bid less thight changing the swinging habit of the barrel? Not sure about that just some thinking. Anyway, anyone experiencing something like it?
  10. if its pre-xn gp rifle in sweden is doing locking blocks. had one of mine break too and got it from them. gustav is a nice guy just google gustaf person rifle. or xn-arms directly got all my parts within a week two tops but I am in Austria so might take longer in the US. Not sure if you require import permit tho. I dont at least not for parts like that.
  11. Just get them from Turkey. I had the locking block break at a match this year. Took around a week to get replacement from Turkey in this case for free. OK I am in Europe so things are easier but just try it why not also in the US unless some US regulation prevents you from importing a bolt.
  12. Hi, I do have some cycling issues for quite some time. Originally I was using the factory main spring and the gun was running perfect for around 4 ot 5 stages meaning 50 to 70 rounds. Then it was starting to shortstroke around 3 to 4 rounds out of 10. More or less unshootable from that moment on. The same thing happend over and over again and always around at the same round count. With harder loads it was the same just a few rounds later. I have to say that I am using a middbarrel and I did open the gasports so that its running with 28g. Then I changed to the weaker spring. From that point on for around 500 to 600 rounds it was running without any issues cycling even high power 24g Then I got closing issues. The bolt would not close completely. falling 1mm or a fraction of a mm short. Hammer will still fall but not strike the primer. This too happening after around 30 to 40 rounds. We did check the gun and she is not dragging somwhere eg we removed everything where she was dragging and polished it. In my opinion its a dirt issue. I was starting with a clean gun but when I dismantel it after ist starts to jam there is considerable dirt in there and the piston is very hard to remove. There is also a ring of dirt on the guide rod on the muzzle side of the piston. There is also some dirt in the cylinder that houses the piston but nothing out of the ordinary in my opintion. I am a little bid lost as this dirt seems to build up fast even when starting with a cleaned gun. Also whey I could shoot 500 to 600 without issues while having the same cleaning regime. Also my piston seems to be quite thight even when clean and when dirty it takes some power to remove. Do you need, with a clean gun, to push the piston in the cylinder or ist it falling in more or less? My requirement is that the gun runs without cleaning for lets say around 120 round. That will give me a complete small match or brings me into lunch break of a bigger one when I have time to clean it. Anyone, else has this issue? I am sure that if I go back to the factory spring I will not have the closing issues but the short stroke issues again. i was thinking of cutting on coil fo the factory spring hoping to have more closing power than the weak one but also less resistance then the factory one but have not done it yet. Any other suggestions?
  13. I know there was a thread about it but cannot find it. is the lower from the old mka and the xn the same? Meaning can I put the xn barrel and so forth into an old receiver if i change the guide rod too?
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