WarBoy

Legion doesn't see to be getting resupplied. I see where Apex has some new bulgy parts. Can anyone confirm these will work? https://www.apexgunparts.com/rifles/ak-74/ak-by-country/bulgarian/bulgarian-ak74-front-sight-block-assembly.html https://www.apexgunparts.com/rifles/ak-74/ak-by-country/bulgarian/bulgarian-ak74-gas-block-and-bayonet-lug.html Do I need the rear sight block assembly? https://www.apexgunparts.com/rifles/ak-74/ak-by-country/bulgarian/bulgarian-ak74-rear-sight-and-sight-block-assembly.html Can I use the cleaning rod and muzzle brake from the same rifle? Obviou

Found me an unconverted Saiga sitting in a pawnshop the other day. BNIB. What all do I need to convert it to a Ak-103 pattern rifle and where can I find the parts? Specifically the Bulgarian front end parts?

GOB, can you elaborate? I looked at the front part of the receiver where the mag catches. Looks pretty flat to me. But it is the last round every time with the factory mag. Although, with the drum on, they were all at the beginning. I was wondering if maybe the mag drags on the bolt when its empty or something. GunFun, It was a full drum, the FTE were all within the first ten or so rounds, the last ten fed fine. He probably wont ever use a drum on it, but if he ever wants to get rid of it, I know it works properly. I added the two smaller ports, hopefully this works as space is getting

Roger that. Left the gas system untouched and installed the factory spring, gas puck and regulator. I'm so close I can smell it! Only 1 FTE using the same mag and ammo. Thought that might be good enough, so I tried my MD arms drum. had 3 or 4 FTE with that, so not up to par. So I believe the next step is to tear it down again and add the two small holes to the gas system. To recap this far; Stock gas system parts and spring re-profiled hammer 3 ports @.093" D mod to gas block Tomorrow morning I'll add two small .072 ports and see where that gets me. Thanks for all your help so

Another oddity, last night I noticed that the ejection pattern is about the 1 oclock area. My experience with ar15s would tell me that the gun is overgassed. Maybe I shouldn't drill the two new holes in the gas system and try the original stiffer recoil spring instead of the CSS one?

Took it apart again yesterday. I had remembered incorrectly. I had 3 ports at .076, way too small. So I stepped them up to .093 thinking I had it for sure this time. Tried it with the same ammo last night and still no dice. It does the same thing, last round out of the mag stovepipes. It did seem like it was crunching on the aluminum part more than the plastic part this time, so maybe it just needs a little more to clear? I pulled the gas block back off this morning and I think I have enough room to fit the two smaller ports, it'll be close.

Per the advice from GunFun, I picked up some Winchester 1200 fps 1 1/8 ounce heavy target loads today. Out of the 25 rounds I had two that stovepiped. They were both the last round out of the factory 5 round mag. Everything else ran fine. Sucks that I can't get it to be reliable on bulk pack like mine is but at least he can shoot it now. As soon as I figure out this issue anyway. Any ideas?

I understand about the D mod not being the greatest but I read from so many people that it worked for them. When I looked in the gas block I could only see two. Initially I thought it came from the batch where they only had two. When I removed the block I was surprised to see the third hole, it was all but obstructed by the front of the gas block. So I just opened it up enough to be able to see that clearly, and put it all back together thinking I found the problem. I don't think it will hurt it, and it did make a huge difference, at least it cycled some ammo. Mullet Man has me thinking th

Yep^ CSS kit. Tried the plug in both directions. Didn't seem to make a difference. It seems like its more consistent on the last round out of the mag, but not always. Most of the time it pulls the hull back and it starts to eject but hangs up and the bolt smashes it against the edge of the barrel causing the hull to crinkle up on the edge. Sometimes it rechambers them. GunFun, I had previously found your link and profiled the hammer to look like you recommend. I think its pretty good.

I've gone through these steps, Stock 5 round mag, tried mine also, no change. Tried Winchester bulk pack (2 3/4 Dr) and some Remington Game loads (3 Dr). Mine cycles with both of these so I figure it should also. Has a railed handguard but the first thing I did was remove it. I've heard they cause problems, no change. I believe its a Tapco G2 hammer and FCG. Hammer has been profiled and polished.

I'm trying in vain to remember what size bit I used to check the ports, its been a couple months.... I think it was a #40?? That would make the ports .098 in diameter. And there's 3 of them. Whats the biggest size you can go up to?

My buddy and I both built our Saiga 12s at the same time several years ago. I did the conversion work on both. I added the reliability kit to mine and it has been fantastic. Runs cheap bulk pack thru my drum with no problems. He took his home and kept getting FTE on almost everything. Eventually he brought it back to me and I installed a reliability kit in it thinking that would solve the problem. It helped, but still sucked. So I took the gas block off and did the D mod(also cleaned out the gas ports to make sure there were no burrs) that helped tremendously but it still has FTE often(at leas

So humor me for a minute, and lets say that this one will come out easy like that. Can I leave the gas assembly attached to the barrel and seperate it as a whole from the reciever?

Why am I powder coating? Because like I said, I already have the setup and the powder. It would be free to do rather than spend money on some other process, and I am already familiar with the powder coating process. Why would you say 400 degrees is too hot? Its metal its not going to incinerate. Have you ever powder coated before? You don't bring the steel up to a temp of 400 degrees you just set it at that till the powder melts and flows out. Some parts on the saiga are a thinner matherial but it isn't going to matter. I don't see anything wrong with a thick finish either. Would just

But why pay $30 when I can do it myself for free? My question was, can I remove that pin, leave the gas block attached to the barrel and seperate the barrel(with attached gas block) from the reciever?