Squeaky

Really liked his books. Among other factors, they motivated me when I was a kid to want to join the military. I think he was good "P.R." for the military. Recruiting should take note.

Hey guys: Just wondering who makes a good, quality .300 Win. Mag. that doesn't require a second mortgage. I am referring to a bolt-action rifle. The Remington 770 is reasonably priced, but I've heard folks complain about it - something about premature throat erosion. I'd love to get a Savage 110BA, but that's too expensive. Forget about Armalite and Steyr - $$$. I've simply come to appreciate the .300 Win. Mag.'s longer range, but it still uses a .308" bullet like many other .30 caliber rifles. I'm not trying to be Chris Kyle (though that'd be cool), but I'd like to have at least one g

I bought extra turrets and dies for .45 ACP, .30-30, .30-06, and .45-70. I did not get a turret to do .223 only because I have not learned how to keep my Saiga from denting the shells upon ejection. I suppose my main complaint with LEE is even though they make a neat turret press, they do not make it clear that only certain powders can be used for a given rifle caliber. If they did, I would not have bought so much IMR 4064, but would have gotten H335 so I could get right down to business. LEE should have developed a press that accounts for more powders given the prevalence of .30 cal

Thanks "Gun Fun." I ordered two universal charging dies and two perfect powder measures for .30-30 and .30-06 reloading. However, having looked more at LEE's chart for .30-30 that came with my dies, I now realize I can use the auto-disk powder dispenser and disks for .30-30 using good 'ole IMR 3031. So ... I'll use a universal charging die and a perfect powder measure for .45-70 rounds later. I just need the press's speed due to the large number of rounds I want to load. It takes forever using a single-stage press.

Hey Guys: Does anyone know how to use the LEE turret press to load .30-06? I'm finally setting mine up and, to my horror, their charts don't give a number for a disk combination I'd need. My "Volume CC" number is off their charts: 3.43. I'm using Hornady 150 gr. bullets and 46.1 grains of IMR 4064 for a milder muzzle velocity of 2,600 f.p.s. per the Hornady manual. I'm pretty angry that I spent a lot of money so I can load shells faster only to learn I apparently can't use this press for my load - and it's not a heavy load. I even bought the double disk kit in anticipation of

Thanks guys for your responses so far. Out of respect for Springfield, I had not mentioned that my Springfield 1911 seemed to have more jams than my High Standard. I am sure this is due to that tolerances issue. It seems like my High Standard will shoot any brand of ammo. I forget which ones, but I recall thinking there were two brands which worked best in the Springfield, whereas anything goes with the High Standard. This is an interesting issue about high tolerances vs. "loose end" pistols because reliability and being able to fire without worrying about jams is of paramount importance

Hello Everyone: I am interested in getting a Mosin if only because ammo is available for it. It is also an historical weapon. For some reason though, they all seem to fire high no matter how much you depress the rear sight. I do think it is a good shooting gun though. I've seen good groups. Anyway ... my question is how can you tell if a Mosin was made at the Tula arsenal? I've seen several logos on Mosins, but I am ignorant about which logo is for which arsenal or factory. Having had beginning Russian, I can tell the year a Mosin was made and that's all. I've heard Mosins with h

Hey Guys: It occurred to me to ask all of you about my 1911 .45 ACP pistol. I am not a .45 expert, nor am I a competition shooter. I just know the 1911 is a classic combat pistol. It's a proven design. My 1911 was made by a brand called "High Standard." I have no idea what this company's reputation or history is. I know they used to make a cool semi-auto .22 LR pistol. I just told the salesman at my gun store I wanted a general purpose 1911 for home defense. I didn't need anything tricked-out or fancy so I feel better around other guys at the range. I just like the idea of firing a he

Hey Guys: I have a friend wanting to get into reloading and he has a simple question I don't know the answer to: when should you crimp rifle rounds? I know you usually crimp pistol rounds, but I personally have never worried about crimping rifle rounds. I have reloaded for .30-06 and .30-30 without worrying about crimping. No problems. Those were very accurate rounds too. However, my friend wants to start loading his own .223 and .308 cartridges. Am I correct in assuming he should crimp due to their semi-automatic actions? My overall question is when is crimping needed? I feel

Hey Guys: A friend of mine who is a less serious shooter than us was fortunate to afford, and get, a Springfield M-1A (M-14) rifle recently. He got the basic all black one - not some National Match version. He's now asking me what sort of scope to put on it. Well ... I know enough to tell him he'll need to learn reloading if he gets really serious about accuracy. I told him to put a mil-dot scope on it, and get a bi-pod, but found myself not knowing which brand of scope to recommend to him. There are so many brands out there. We are not Night Force or Zeiss types - those are way too

Hello Everyone: I visited a gun range and saw another guy with a Russian Mosin-Nagant rifle in 7.62 x 54R. I've seen several of these getting sighted-in. Often they're bought at Cabelas or a local gun store. Something I've noticed, and find curious, is all of them are fine with regards to azimuth. The work comes in with elevation - they all shoot too high. Despite lowering the rear sight as much as possible, they shoot high at 100 yards. Today's case was typical - it shot at around a foot high at 100 yards. At 50 yds., it shot around 8" high. One often has to sight at the lower beam o

Hey Everybody: In the interest of fairness, I am not going to place the onus on anybody with this posting, nor voice my own opinion. However, I cannot help but wonder if the ammo famine will turn out to be another Obama scandal given how other agencies apparently have been used as instruments of abuse of power. Does the same apply to D.H.S.? I simply can't help but wonder what you guys think (or know) about this situation. I've never seen anything like it. I'm just glad to have some new .30-06 shells to load whose components were bought before this ammo famine. If I may be allowe

Hey Everybody: I want to ask if the TAPCO AK-74 style muzzle brake can be used on a Saiga .223's barrel? I realize the barrel would have to be threaded if it can fit. However, I've seen nothing that specifically says this muzzle brake can be used on a Saiga .223. Maybe I'm blind. Just wanted to ask before I order one. Apparently, this one is more effective than the classic slant muzzle brake. Thank you! :-)

Hey Guys: Lately, I've heard more and more about Mossbergs and Remington 870 shotguns. I sort of feel like a 2nd class citizen because I own neither brand's shotgun. I bought an H&R "Pardner Pump" 12-gauge shotgun with an 18.5" short barrel for home defense a few years ago. It was on sale. It works. It shoots buck shot and slugs. The only problem I've had is I think it got too warm when I tried using it for skeet once and shells didn't want to fully eject towards the end of the course. It was fine after it cooled a while. Did I make a bad choice? Am I a dork for not owning some

Hello Everyone: I recently inherited a lever-action rifle that's chambered for .44 Magnum. It is not a Henry nor Marlin though. I don't know what I have. It looks like a Winchester 94 clone chambered for .44 Magnum. It says: "PUMA M92 IMPORTED BY LSI. RENO, NV." The serial number is M149943. Is PUMA the brand? Is this a good gun? How can I learn when it was built? I'm curious about what this gun's reputation is (or was). All I know is .44 Rem. Mag. ammo is expensive! I've cycled the action and it feels like a solid rifle. It is not as heavy as a Henry rifle. So I bought 180 gr. am

Thanks guys. I figured I was worrying about nothing. In regards to "Risky's" comment about heavier bullet weights producing higher pressures, I must say "DUH!" towards myself. I knew that Risky. Thanks for reminding me. I know I've fired 170 gr. ammo in this gun before. So ... I've no doubt I'll be ok using 150 gr. ammo. However, I do intend to start buying 170 gr. ammo too (or loading my own) just to be flexible. If any of you ever have a chance to buy a Winchester Model 64 .30-30 in good condition, get it. It is a fine rifle if you don't mind top ejection of the shell.

Hello Everyone: I have a my father's Winchester Model 64 (not a 94) .30-30 lever-action rifle. It's been years since I fired it. I remember using Remington Core-lokt ammo, but do not recall using 150 or 170 gr. ammo. Since it is a .30-30, chances are any RN or FP .30-30 ammo will work. My concern is that 150gr. .30-30 ammo has a higher muzzle velocity. I assume that means higher chamber pressure too. I think 150 gr. and 170 gr. .30-30 ammo have typical factory load muzzle velocities of 2,350 and 2,200 fps respectively. Given this rifle was made of solid American steel in 1943, this

Hello Gentlemen: It's been a while since I've visited this site. I haven't been able to shoot much lately, but I do have all parts needed for 922r compliance for my Saiga 223. I was looking at Carolina Shooters Supply and noticed they carry a part called a recoil buffer. It's purpose sounds obvious. My question is: is it necessary? I've fired my Saiga without this buffer and it worked fine. I suppose there'd be a bit less recoil with this part installed. I've simply never heard of a recoil buffer. Is it necessary? Is it difficult to install? CSS says it helps prevent wear on part

What kind of conversion are you guys talking about and what kind of trigger should I get? I already bought a TAPCO stock that doesn't require moving the trigger group forward. To DJ Big Dog: Your 100 yd. group is great! That's what I was getting at 50 yards with a heavy trigger. Thanks!

Hello: I finally got familiar with my 16" Saiga .223 saturday. I bench rest fired at 50 yards because all the 100 yard benches were taken. Oh well ... my goal was to just get familiar with my gun. I shot 55 gr. PMC bronze and Tula ammo using my 10-round magazine. I forgot to bring my spotting scope! My plan was to sight-in the iron sights first. It fired a good group, but I soon learned I need a special tool to adjust azimuth on the front sight. So ... I went ahead and mounted my little 4 x 32 tactical scope and proceeded to sight it in instead. Once I got on target, I fired 100 r

Hey Guys: To be honest, I have no gunsmithing skills. So ... I was intimidated by the prospect of having to move the trigger group forward to get a compliant buttstock, and I was figuring out other ways to get down to 10 parts from 14. However, I have looked at a few sites like Carolina Shooters Supply more closely and learned there are buttstocks you can attach without moving the trigger group. You just drill a few holes. So .... I can get one of those (like a TAPCO T6). That ... along with Surefire 30 rd mags ... will take me down to at least 10 parts and make my gun 922r compliant.

Hello Everyone: I am not only a new Saiga owner, but I am new to the whole AK-47 world. I always thought combat rifles like AR-15s and AK-47s were legal as long as they weren't fully automatic. In the case of the Saiga 223, it is legal out of the box. However, like everyone else, I want to use 30 round magazines like Surefires. Then all the 922r stuff kicks in. Apparently, one must get the imported parts count down from 14 to 10. I'm really on a budget right now, so the stocks I've learned about will have to wait. The most affordable options I've found (which are cheaper than stocks)

Hey guys: I hate to sound naive, but I bought my Saiga .223 a couple of weeks ago being totally ignorant of all this 922r business. I simply assumed it is legal in its factory condition (or else it couldn't be imported) until you start modifying it to be more like an authentic AK-47. As I said in my previous post, I do not want to modify my Saiga .223 except for the addition of a tactical scope and scope mount. However, I logically bought this rifle so I could enjoy using 30-round magazines at the gun range. Every man deserves a "Rambo" moment once in a while. :-) Plus, it simply look

Hello Everybody: This is my first posting here! I got a new Saiga .223 (16" barrel) last week and I have several questions. So please bear with me. The box came with a small black "capsule" containing the tips you put on a cleaning rod. However, no cleaning rod was included. I am not an AK-47 expert, so I ask you guys where can I find a cleaning rod for my Saiga .223? Can one simply use a .22LR cleaning rod, an AR-15's rod, or should I get an AK-47 cleaning rod from somewhere? Are there Saiga or AK-47 cleaning kits anywhere? Just to be safe, is it ok to use Break Free, Hoppes, or RemOi