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MTRamMan

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Posts posted by MTRamMan

  1. Basically, I have the tapco G2 FCG in my saiga, and I have experienced multiple double fires. I did some investigating, and found that Tapco specifically warns against using the G2 FCG in the saiga platform as double fires can occur.

     

    This is why I got rid of my G2s. I experienced the problem with every one of them. The RSA has worked very nicely since then, but it will require modification in most Saigas. Here's one of mine:

    IMG_0213_zps8e72cf9e.jpg

     

    Notice that the top of the adjustment hole for the screw in the disconnector is plugged. It will work loose if you don't do something. I found the adjustment I wanted, red-loctited it, and then filled the top of the hole with JB Weld.

     

    Here's someone else's RSA FCG without the removal of the pre-travel adjustment area:

    DSC00710.JPG

     

    Their rivet is further back than where the hole for it is in the Saiga.

     

    So I have a saiga 7.62 and have a RSA trigger ordered.. when it gets here is anyoines guess, but that's another topic. Will I have to modify my gun OR trigger in some fashion then?

     

    Dan

  2. The overall point should be here...

     

    The guy or company trying to sell these mags at such an inflated price, even way above current market values is simply wasting his time and making himself look like the price gouging fool he is. His ad speaks for him. No one in their right mind will buy these... At least a that price at this point in time. I've paid more than I should for my recent purchases, but the items were at current market value and better at least. Shame on me though for waiting till the shit shit the fan.

    • Like 1
  3. <blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Semper299" data-cid="860926" data-time="1360337617"><p>

    I have same Saiga. The BHO only works if you engage it. IMHO, it is worthless and gets in my way. I did not reinstall it, and will never miss it.<br />

    <br />

    When you remove the old trigger guard, the bottom of the receiver will need to be painted. Most people use Dupli-Color Engine Enamel Low Gloss Black DE1634. It seems to be the best match to the factory paint. Get it at your local automotive store.<br />

    <br />

    The holes left in the receiver after you move the trigger group can be filled with plastic hole plugs from Lowes.<br />

    <br />

    I used blue loctite on everything. The red stuff is pretty strong, and takes alot of heat to get it to break loose. Just make sure that is what you want.<br />

    <br />

    As far as suggestions, the only part people usually struggle with is the bullet guide. Use a quality tap and handle, lots of oil, and take your time. It really is a pretty simple process and one that you will great enjoy. Teaches you alot about your rifle as well.</p></blockquote>

     

    Thanks much for the info! Looking forward to converting it. Now I see I might want to replace the FSB and thread on a muzzle brake as well. I might get the help of my local gunsmith to do that part.

  4. I think I'm leaning towards the Midwest Industries rail set up now. I see they have a specific Saiga version. Do I NEED to get this one or can I get any of their other models? They talk it being for models without an end cap and I have no idea if I have one or not. Can someone clear this up for me? I know these AK's shouldn't be this confusing, but dang, I must be a little slow lately.

     

    Thanks,

    Dan

  5. I think I've decided to go with the Ultimak top gas tube/rail replacement for my optic. Does ANYONE have any idea if this would be compatible with the Midwest Industries lower trirail handguard? What other handguards IS the Ultimak compatible with?

     

    Also, I want to run a UTG stubby folder PG on the lower rail AND a light of some sort... most likely a Surefire or other similar light with a pressure switch. Anyone know if there's room for both on the lower rail or what length rail I would need to accommodate both?

     

    Thanks,

    Dan

     

    EDIT- MWI just emailed me... NO it won't these will not work together :( I really don't want to spend $220 for just a lower tri rail. Anyone with a Ultimak who's running a nonpoly trirail please give me some feedback. Thanks.

  6. All very interesting comments and feedback here. I basically bought my AK for CQC with the intention of a red dot at the most. If I want to snipe something or hunt it with intent, that's what I have my AR or larger caliber rifles for. I'll see just how's accurate my AK is after the conversion which includes a RSA trigger group. Hopefully this will help my overall accuracy.

  7. Well I just got the gun and am in the process of converting it. My GF has one as well that's not converted... Yet... That I've had at the range and have played with. Of course I've done my share of mag dumps on my AR ;) My AK will most def be a real world working pre/active/post zombie Appocalypse gun and not a Hollywood prop gun with everything known to man strapped, taped and welded onto it! Thanks for the feedback. Much appreciated all.

  8. Midwest Industries has a rail with red-dot-specific top covers that supposedly co-witness. You have to get the top cover specific to your optic though.

     

    Im going to do Ultimak + Magpul forend lower, because the ultimak is the absolute lightest option and will allow me to swap in a LWR scope if I want to. The magpul lower is rubberized poly with a bulge for grip, comes with rails you can add for a light.

     

    The other lightweight option is the Texas Weapons Systems dust cover rail. That could be a better option than the Ultimak for some people because the weight is more centered. Im gonna put that on my 22" M-series.

     

    I haven't considered Magpul except for their AFG2 "grip". I recently read on the Ultimak that if you do alot of range shooting that the mount can heat up and transfer the heat to your sight to ratings higher than max as rec per manufacture. This was measured by a temp meter per another forum member with concerns to the elctronics. For casual shooting without alot of mag dumps I'm sure it's fine though.

     

    Cy4ka... PM sent

    1. I bought a 7.62 16" barrel with MINT with less than 60 rounds through it for $500 about a week ago, prob could of has it for less. I'm surprised that it was listed for this so I didn't want to dicker with the guy. He even threw in a 20 rnd box of ammo . I've already dumped about that much into it though on parts for my conversion what.gif , not including ammo.

  9. You'll have to do some searching to find a setup that co-witnesses with the irons. I have a Chaos quad rail and absolutely love it but the only thing i have mounted on it is a MOE vertical grip on the bottom and rail covers on each side. I mounted my cheap Sightmark red dot (actually really nice for a cheap dot and has held up perfectly through 1200 rounds) in a UTG quick release side mount and it doesn't co-witness but works awesome. The quick release feature is great if you want to shoot just irons or if the optic ever broke when you actually need the rifle for SD you can still use the irons. Plus the side mount brings the optic closer to your face and retains zero after taking it off. Check it out.attachicon.gif2013-02-02_21-54-20_776.jpg

     

    Thanks for the pic and info dubya. I'm looking at about 5 different rail systems, including the Chaos. Does it make the front end seem a tad heavy? I'll be mounting a red dot sight, UTG folding FG and a light of some sort so I want to keep it all as light as possible, but I don't really want a poly forend either. I'll look more into the side mount as well, I thought they weren't all that great at holding zero though.

     

    Nice clean setup btw!

  10. Hi all,

     

    I think I'll be running a red dot optic of some sort and want to be able to co-witness with my stock sites. I'd like a tri-rail as well, but dang, the Ulitmaks are pricey. I don't mind top dollar products, but I'm already dumping way more into this gun than I'd planned. I've seen the UTG products and plan on using their folding low profile vertical grip. Any thouights on the UTG rails or can anyone suggest another good aluminum rail? I want to keep the fore end uncluttered and light as possible as well.

     

    Thanks,

    Dan

  11. I'm a newbie to AK's and by no means a gunsmith, but I'm mechanically inclined and no idiot. That being said I have a few questions that I can't seem to clear up by searching the forums;

     

    I have a 7.62 x 39 ~2010 model with the dimples and BHO lever from what I can tell, if this makes any difference. I'll be installing a RSA trigger group with the plate they sell that I think does away with a spring, houge grip onto the Aluminum trigger gaurd with grip bolt that CSS sells and an ACE M4 adjustable stock with the folder assembly and the internal mounting block that CSS sells. Also will be doing the bullet guide deal as well.

     

    I'm not sure if I understand how the BHO works on this Saiga. Does it function like any other LRHO assembly like on my AR15 or 1911? Once I know, I'll be able to decide if I want to do away with the BHO lever all together. It looks like it gets in the way of the trigger finger after the conversion.

     

    Also, once I drill out the pins/rivets, do I need to repaint the exposed metal with anything or prime it to help prevent rusting? No one has really mentioned this that I can see.

     

    I'll be using red AND blue loctite on the appropriate parts. Any reason why I shouldn't use the red loctite on anything that I plan on leaving in permanently?

     

    Thats all the questions I have for now. I appreciate ANY advice or help that you guys can give me before I start on this conversion. I'm open to suggestions as well or tips that I may need to know that I didn't inquire about.

     

    Thanks much,

    Dan

     

    AWESOME forum btw! I never knew I'd get so excited about my new AK!

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