Jump to content

SGL

Contributor
  • Content Count

    684
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Posts posted by SGL

  1. Not funny at all. I've posted similar videos here before and it's ridiculous how many of these are out there.
    I get that it's a different culture, but how can you be so negligent when it comes to your child's safety?

     

    They took out the mag before giving it to him, so they obviously understand that it's more than he can handle, and yet they still set him up to fail.  I can't stand bad parents.  anger.gif

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZOSDSX7ZN0

  2. Unless you're looking to print tiny groups for fun, you shouldn't need magnification at 50-100.

    In my opinion, the ideal offering from Primary Arms is their Advanced Micro Dot. (MD-ADS)

    They are a clone of the Aimpoint T1 and a good one at that.   The advanced version mentioned above even has the ridiculous battery life that will allow you to leave it on at all times.

     

    For a cheap QD option, you can get the Key Zion Aimpoint T1 Quick Release for $25 which would let you quickly remove the optic if you had a problem with it.  There's plenty of video of Primary Arms dots taking a beating in torture tests, so it should hold up just fine, but rain or mud can make it hard to see through an optic so it's really nice to be able to switch back to irons with the flip of a lever.

     

     

    Primary-Arms-Advanced-Micro-Dot_423x350.

    Edit: Recommended Retailer -  The best price I've found on these is at Mounts Plus.   If you use the coupon code MSP3000 you can get it for $157.94 delivered.   This company has been great about customer service and they ship quickly, so I'm happy to recommend them.

     
    Primary Arms Advanced Micro Dot with Push Buttons - 181-PA-MDADS
    1 $169.99 - Coupon: MSP3000: ($17.00) Shipping: USPS - First Class Mail: $4.95 Sales Tax: $0.00   Total: $157.94
    • Like 3
  3. Pros and cons to folding on either side.   Folding to the left, it would be easier to operate with the stock folded as it will not be blocking your access to the charging handle or safety.   However, a left side folder will not fold completely if you have an optic mounted using the side rail.

     

    If you plan to use your side rail to mount optics, one that folds to the right is probably a better choice.
    If you don't plan on using optics or prefer an Ultimak or other option that doesn't use the rail, folding to the left may be the way to go.

    • Like 1
  4. You'll be able to swap stocks that are compatible with that block.   You would lose the ability to use any standard AK buttstocks out there.
    I'm not sure what you were going to attach to this block, but there is probably a comparable alternative that will bolt up to your tang.

    With your tang still intact you could use VLTOR or Rifle Dynamics adapter to attach a tube and M4 Stock.  Magpul and Bonesteel (CNC Warrior) make excellent folding options, and there is surplus furniture from wire and Beryl folders to good old fashioned wood that will bolt right up to your existing tang.

     

    I've never been a fan of removing the tang and actually passed up a good deal on a Saiga .223 because the owner had chopped it off.  In my opinion, you're hurting the resale value and limiting your options with very little to gain.
     

    • Like 1
  5. You will need to cut off the tang flush with the receiver. The block will then slide all the way in. The side screws go into the old trigger pin holes and the top screw goes in the hole just ahead of the tang.

     

    First, take a moment to consider if you really want to cut the tang.  There are a ton of great stock options out there that won't require you to permanently alter the rifle.  Maybe you already put a bunch of thought into this before ordering the part, but if not it's worth a few minutes of contemplation.  If you decide that you want to keep the tang, I would bet CSS would be happy to take the part back, or you could sell it.

     

  6. It works. I sheared the lug off of a factory five and it seems to be as good as new.

     

    I'm surprised to hear this as I don't recall ever reading about one of these failing.  Of course I don't doubt you but it doesn't seem common.

    Has anyone else here ever broken a factory 5?

  7. There might be some conventional wisdom out there but the only way to know for sure is to buy a variety of boxes with different loads and try them in your shotgun.   I have seen very different patterns out of guns that on paper should have produced the same results.  

     

    Figure out what size pattern you need at what distance and try different brands and loads until you find the one that comes closest to your goals.
    Stock up on a reasonable amount for your application and then go out and buy a lot of cheap stuff to practice with and store.  :)

    There are still great deals out there on Estate Buckshot, so definitely pick up some of that for your testing.  If your gun likes it, you're in luck and can stack it cheap without compromise.

    • Like 2
  8. The only way it can hurt is they are loose enough now to hinder function. If you fix them and later mix them up with mags that you might use to defend yourself and the JB weld comes off, you could be in trouble.  If I was attempting this, I would wrap some bright yellow electrical tape around them to designate them as range use only
     

    • Like 1
  9. I ran across this on Gunbroker and despite being very temping, I can't justify buying it right now.

    Apparently this guy is selling an SGL12-09 with a buy it now price of $799.00 and free shipping.

     

    http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=507757888

    post-47428-0-11194900-1442595409_thumb.jpg

    pix181376134.jpg

     

    For those of you not familiar with this model, it was imported by KVAR in it's factory unmolested state.  It's not a conversion, it's an S12 built in pistol grip configuration at Izhmash.    This takes away a lot of the fun of converting for you guys that are into that, but it comes ready to go for someone that would prefer not to have to take power tools to a gun to get it the way they want it.

     

    To me, this is a much more desirable shotgun than the RWC/KC leftover conversions on the market right now and is selling for about the same price as the unconverted models.

     

    Some might argue that the VEPRs are near the same price, but if you already have a collection or rock 'n lock mags or are looking for something more collectible, this is a great deal.

    I don't mean to come across as a salesman for this guy as I have no connection to him, but I thought it would be great if this could help someone here on the forum.

    Keep in mind that the reason that these were importable is the same reason that the Veprs were allowed in the country with a pistol grip.   The way I understand it, the ATF decided that as long as a shotgun shipped with a magazine of 5 rounds or less, it was importable with a pistol grip.  

    This means that you will probably need to swap out some parts to stay in compliance with magazines larger than 5 rounds.   Do your own homework, but the only US part on this shotgun is the handguard.   The FCG, stock, and pistol grip are all Russian. 

     

    The handguard and rail combo alone would cost you $160.00 at KVAR.   It's a nice extra that you could keep or sell, but the rail is very heavy.

     

    There's a chance that it could be a Vodka special, but these SGLs seem to run great out of the box.  If it does have any issues, chances are the solutions are here on the forum.

    Anyway, I hope this helps someone here end up with a great shotgun!

     

     

    pix035147756.jpg

     

    pix395343443.jpg
     

    Edit: Quick typo fix

    • Like 4
  10. I've been wondering if buffers would actually prevent the taill on bolt carriers from mushrooming out bad...the hammer reset specifically seems to flatten out and deform over time on many ak type guns.

     

    No, the tail of the bolt carrier often mushrooms due to the sharp corners on the hammer of the G2 triggers.  The rear corner is the one most responsible, and you can see this by slowly pulling the charging handle back when the hammer is in the forward position.   You'll see where the tail hits that hard corner and deforms.   If you're careful, you can round out that hard corner on the hammer (not the hammer face itself) with a hand file and sandpaper to prevent this or keep it from getting worse.

     

    From what I have seen, this is more of an issue on Hungarian and Yugo rifles.   I think that the Russians and Bulgarians might be using slightly harder steel because they don't seem to mushroom as severely on this edge.

     

    The tail itself never touches the trunnion as in the furthest rearward position it is nested inside the rear of the recoil spring assembly.

     

    Assuming you have a G2 in the rifle this is the part of the hammer that is deforming your bolt carrier. (circled in red)

     

    post-47428-0-88474600-1442516034.jpg

     

  11. If I'm not mistaken, it was originally developed for rifles equipped with grenade launchers after top covers started flying off when launching them.
    I'm guessing that Izhmash probably had the same thing happening when they were developing the S12 due to the increased recoil of the 12 gauge.  Adding it is an extra step that costs money, so I don't think they would include it if it wasn't needed.

    It's really not hard to manage once you're used to it and will become second nature once you've taken it apart enough times for cleaning.

    • Like 2
×
×
  • Create New...