Bauran

Hi all, long time no see. Since we last spoke me Saiga has been in the case. However this past weekend I took it out for prep of a weekend shoot. The trouble is I had 4 FTF out of 20 rounds; 10 were 2-3/4 bird shot, and 10 were 3" triple buck. Funny thing all 10 of the 2-3/4 fired and cycled without issue however 4 of the 10 3" had a light primer strike. I don't know why. I have installed JTE PERFORMANCE POWER HAMMER SPRING /MAIN SPRING FOR ALL SAIGA AND AK VARIANTS, this replaced the factory tqiated wire spring. Any answers as to why this may happen or solutions. Maybe just bad ru

Hehe The weapon is done, hence why I haven't posted, but wanted to check on LRBHO and where it is in production or a diy from a forum member. I will post pictures I should have e'ssaid it was drugs or alcohol that lead to that first post, of which I do neither. Led to the post, I do neither. Had to been half asleep ...maybe all the way to sleep

Jesus H, been forever since I thought to log on but I suspect this is a result of a exceedingly late night gunsmithing which should have ended in sleep. Not unintentional gibberish. Wish I'd seen it earlier but logged in a while to notice it. Forgive my prease

Hello all I am hoping you guys can point me in the right direction because good glad has failed me. I've notice a number of saiga what what is can call and enhance manual bolt hold open, the one you repress when the bolt os in the fully back possition. As far as I can tell it it ode tial to factory with the exception of the small bar that protrudes from the bottom of the weapon has what I can only see crib as a curved flat bottom button as opposed to the classic single flat bar sticking out the bottom. I don't look at it as coat tic just simply am improvement on the design that all

Oh I forgot, I have access to solder and associated tool for these types of small divets...anyone have experience with type of filler question is, will the duracoat or cerakote adhere to such a compound?

I'ive done just that to for blemishes on my ar and it work great. In my case though the guy used a grinding wheel on a dremel and knocked it far enough down to creat a deep best as I can describe a cut. Happened so fast I can't blame him but that doesn't take away the fact it is there. If you stick a toothpick in it to gauge how deep it is it goes down a 1/16 or 1/8 inch. Since I intend to coat it I can only imagine it will show more apparent more once done. I'm looking in the metal impregnated epoxy because that seems the best route, thanks for the patience but of hasn't asked I w

Rather than start a new thread which coat would you suggest: cerakote, dura coat or parkerize? I know all have their pluses and minuses but of the three if it was your saiga which would YOU choose? LIke I said I value the opinion of this forum.

Thank you Spacehog for informative post, most appreciated.

ok...it's roughly 1/8" Long if that helps. In the end guys I'm looking to get the gun coated in either cerakote or something in the same line (suggestions are welcome). I really like the look and feel of the coating that has a textured feel but I don't know the name of it. Bondo I assume would not adhere to such a coating or mabye it will, I claim ignorance on the subject, I simply do not know. But please take my qustion seriously, seems every time I come here for advice I'm met with discord or flat asshattery. I respect that you all have miles and miles of experience that I

Need help from the forum guys and gals on something. I had a friend cut my square for my saiga rear grip nut hole. He did a fine job but in the process he slipped and put a knick about 1/16" of an inch deep and about 5 mm long (if even that) next to the grip once it was installed. Meaning I have a small blemish now that the weapon is completely back together. Now to the question: Short of getting someone to weld in the cut and grind down the excess what other options do I have? Like is there a compound that I can use to fill it? I.e. an epoxy compound? If it helps I'm looki

well how do tell which model you have? I have the following markings on mine: SAIGA-12 (obviously) 12/76 18,3 Bolt has a 530 stamped in it CANTA-12 and I believe a seriAl number ending in 14530 Those are all on the outside of the weapon, if you k ow where exactly I can look to find the model number be it I side or out I'd appreciate the info.

Really? Thanks for the info...could you point me in the right direction, not out of laziness on my part but more that you guys know more than me Never mind! Found it! Thanks a pile man Found a pic of the nut: http://www.carolinashooterssupply.com/product_p/css-grip-nut.htm

Really wish I could post pics so you guys could better understand my delima.

After speaking with mako I ended up getting the Recoil-Compensating Collapsible Buttstock Kit for AK-47/74 part number SBT-K47FK. They said the spring was stronger for the S12 recoil. However if you'd rather have the tube only and put you own butt stock you can purchase the recoil reducing tube by itself; part number SBT-K47. I can verify it is better for Saiga 12 compared to the GL-SHOCK. I have the GL-SHOCK on my ar and it perfect for that.

Hi all, I recently purchased a FAB defence rear handle and when it came it had as best as I can describe a "T" shapped nut (though it has two 30 is degree beveled cuts in the vertical portion of the T). It's made to be recessed, lays flat on the inside of the weapon and the threaded nut extending out from the gun at a slight angle, pullin the grip towards the trigger guard as its tightened up. The other option is to get a traditional grip a simple nut inside the gun and a long bolt going up through the handle and bound by the nut. Mine is set up this way (but i really want to use