segasaiga

Hey, I ran into a bit of a problem that I hope the saiga pros here can help me with. Thanks in advance! I was out shooting clay pigeons the other week. I was using the low brass remington birdshot - It was having failures to eject so I kicked it up a notch and put the gas setting on 2. Started cycling perfectly after that. But about 40 rounds or so on the 2 setting, the trigger started going limp randomly and would take about 5-15 seconds to reset on its own. It would just *click* and reset without touching it. Weird! I saw a somewhat similar problem on the x39 section. With their iss

Thanks for the info! I was wrong to doubt you guys at first. Thats why I love this forum - its top notch.

Are you serious? When did I call anyone ignorant? I doubt anyone else here thinks im wasting anyones time - why would the service manual state theres a firing pin spring if there isnt one? Snooty

Oh wow.. Youre right!

No way - are you guys sure this is normal? Ive checked out the saiga 308 firing pin and the S12 that friends own and they both have tension - are wasr10s and other variants like this? Sorry to doubt you guys, but I just want to be sure.

I just acquired a NIB 762x39 Saiga and was taking it apart to clean it. I noticed the firing pin was just floating back and forth when I was getting the factory lube off. It had no tension at all. This seemed way wrong to me, so I took out the firing pin by knocking the retainer pin out. The firing pin slid out of the channel with no spring or anything. Anyone know what the deal is with that? Ive never taken a bolt apart before and I have no idea how im going to get the retainer pin back in right. Im going to leave it disassembled until I find out if this is normal. The manual states that

I saw this in a different thread and thought I would add this here for people searching the forum for the topic:

Looks like a wraithmaker to me too. Their barret 50 cal style brake is interesting, but the shark brake is much sexier.

I know what you mean. We need more Saiga 308 handguards.

The thinner part of the barrel "whips" during firing while the thicker part closer to the chamber barely has any "whip" at all.If you use a regular sling swivel stud with a backing plate and nut on the inside of the handguard on the first 1/4 of the barrel forward of the the trunnion you should be alright in the accuracy department. Also,I use my bipod legs as foregrips when firing offhand but I wear heavy gloves and have a very solid firing position.If you are not so "leaned in" and solid using a bipod leg as a foregrip might cause it to collapse on you so YMMV. Oh thanks- I

I was wondering what the best front handguard is for attaching a bipod? The type of bipod that just hooks over the barrel is probably bad for accuracy. Can the front sling attachment be swapped for a bipod mount on the stock grip? Thanks.

Thanks for the reply Tony, I love your work. The shark brake in question doesn't appear to have the moly on it. It appears dark grey compared to the black barrel. The Saiga was made in 2007. What all is involved in putting moly on something? You dont have to bake it, right?

Good info in this thread. Are you able to fold it to the left completely with the rail attached to the scope mount?

I put elite because it looks so cool. It was one of the normal brakes - he says he got it from Mississippi auto arms.

My friends S12 has one of those elite shark brakes, but it doesnt match the rest of the gun. What is it that needs to be done to the brake to fix this?