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sKott

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Posts posted by sKott

  1. Unfortunately I did not get a manual with this one but I did get one when I bought my Saiga 12.

    One of the 2 book I got with it explains the 2 armorers stamps on the sight rail side of the receiver.

     

    The stamp with the two facing E's surrounding an Arrow in a circle has a 2 digit number underneath it. That is it's Mfg /Certification date. This number should also be the same as the second and third digits in the serial number.

     

    So if the 2 digit code under the logo is 03 the serial number should start off H03XXXXXX - 2003 Mfg Date

     

    My Saiga 12 follows the same pattern. The certification booklet that came with it was signed and dated 2007. Stamp was 07 and the Serial was H07XXXXXX.

     

    That's the way I understand it.

     

    sKott

  2. I have been looking for a Saiga 410 for my son for a few months and just about gave up two weeks ago when i saw a IZ-104 at the Pasadena Gunshow for $619. - At that price it wasn't going to happen.

     

    I posted a WTB on theakforum and another member replied that they saw a used one at a Gander Mountain in WI. I called and they still had it. The best part was the Price... $183.24 ($149.99 + $25 shipping & $8.25 Tax) so I jumped sight unseen.

     

    So for a week I have been hoping that it wasn't trashed, missing the mag, etc.

     

    Yesterday I got the call that it arrived at the local Gander Mountain. When I opened the case this is what I found:

     

    P1070627.jpg

     

    A 2003 RAAC IZ 103 in almost perfect condition. Very, very Happy Camper!!!!!

    Now the conversion ideas are churning around....

     

    My son and I plan to give it a test drive this weekend.

     

    sKott

  3. Good news! About two months ago after reading a thread on importing the 8rd mags, I E-mailed RAAC and they said:

     

    "We import a 2 round in a 5 round body. It seems the factory subs out the 2 round magazine and it is too high in price for us to buy once they tack on their markup"

     

    So I said that many of us here would be willing to pay out the ear to get a 2rd short mag. Also I asked him if they will be importing IZ108s anytime soon. So then he said.

     

    "I am working on bringing in some 2 round mags for the 12 from Germany. The IZ-108 keeps getting pushed back in production at the factory."

     

     

     

    So the point is we may be seeing some more short s12 2rd mags here in the US soon. However they do not have confirmation on delivery yet.

     

     

    Glad to see this. I'm anxiously waiting...

  4. In the month of January I plan to add a Saiga 410 to the collection. The intended user of the 410 will be my 9 year old son but I'm sure he'll let me shoot it once in a while.

    I plan to convert it to a pistol grip configuration but am still undecided on the butt stock (fixed or folded)

     

    I have a IZ-109 S-12 converted to a 12C configuration and I like the overall length and have no issues with the 19" barrel. I was thinking that I would get him the same 19" barrel length.

     

    I guess my question is what would be the optimal length for a 410? Should I go with the 19" or 21.5" barrel? Is the felt recoil better or worse with one or the other? Accuracy?

     

    Thanks for helping me make an informed decision...

  5. Or if a Knotch had to be cut-out for a russian sidefolder to go in. Like sKotts conversion

     

     

    I plan on filling in the rest of the importer's stamp with JB weld or similar before I spray it with moly resin. - Looks kinda silly with a hole in the middle of the stamp.

     

     

    Did you ever get a straight answer on this?I have an AK100 stock and I have been hesitant about cutting through the markings even on my non-NFA Saigas.

     

    I use an epoxy paint over parkerizing to refinish my guns so filling the manufacturer's details with the same material appeals to me but I don't want even the possibility of being hassled about it should the situation arise.

     

     

    I was lucky in the fact that the lettering was not very deep at all. and came off with a little emory cloth.

    Before I did this I asked around and a board member sent me a copy of an ATF letter stating that while it was adviseable to leave the importers marks it was not required and that the only thing that could not be modified was the serial number.

     

    Here's how it came out.

     

    P1050219.jpg

  6. Exceptional conversion!! :up:

     

    I didn't see any mention to the methoid used to remove the import markings. Were they welded over then ground down, or did you just sand/grind them out? Those import marks were the one thing keeping me from daring to do a conversion like this myself. I was considering the triangular stock, but yours looks great too.

     

    Do those solid stocks come in OD green, do you know?

     

     

    Thanks for posting this.

     

     

    Corbin

     

    I was really lucky in this respect. My import marks just kissed the surface and most came off after buffing the welds and cleaning up the cuts. If the marks were deep I would have had it welded and ground down.

  7. Thanks for all your photos, and experience sKott. It helped me greatly to buck up and do it myself. I don't think I'm gonna ship most of my AK's off to other people to build. I see where the time comes in. But other than welding. It was awesome doing it myself.

     

    I'm shipping my S-12 off to Elk River tommorrow morning!

     

    Getting her welded, and riveted. Can't wait to get her back!

     

    I can't wait to see the picts...

     

    Is there chrome pics yet?

     

    I slid a chrome carrier from one of my AK's in there just to look and that's a LOT of chrome.

     

    I kinda like it black. So for the time being, I'll just moly-res the balance of the parts to match.

     

    I did get a hold of some Brownells lacquer stix and I whited the SN and some of the logos.

    P1060520.jpg

    P1060890.jpg

    I really like it on the Gas Plug "Red of Hot Loads"

     

    Besides I'm in the middle of an FAL build that is sucking all of my gun budget. I can always plate it later but I need to finish this FAL quickly.

  8. I blasted and applied Moly Resin the S12 and have had no issues with the finish coming off. just be sure to give it a good MEK bath and warm the parts before you apply the moly resin.

     

    I have a Polish underfolder that I had parkerized a few years back. Over the weekend I gave the underfolder a MEK bath and the moly resined it and the moly resin did not sitck as well. Maybe it was something I did wrong but I wont be parkerizing any more firearms before applying moly resin.

  9. What about plating the bolt as well? After smoothing it up for reliability purposes as described in other threads. Any reason not to do so? I'm thinking it should make a slicker action. The corrosion protection from plating would be a plus as well.

     

    Plating does add some thickness. I was told do not plate the bolt. It will not function properly if you plate it.

  10. Classic Arms uses Elite Custom Plating (I believe they are next door to Classic)

    They have plated 2 of my AK carriers. I plan on sending them my AMD 65 carrier and my Saiga 12 carrier as well.

     

    Here's a sample:

     

    Bolt3.jpg

     

    Bolt1.jpg

     

    Bolt2.jpg

     

    I think I paid $62 shipped.

     

     

    Did you have to polish it yourself before plating? Do you have to send it in with the piston removed?

     

    They did everything turn key. I just sent the factory painted carrier with the piston attached.

    However they did it the piston and the bolt cam area did not get plated.

  11. A good hard chrome is pretty hard to beat as far as durability goes, most people just don't want a silver tactical shotgun.

     

    I've heard about (or seen firearms platers that offer) Black chrome... is it the same as Hard chrome?

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