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jh664322

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Posts posted by jh664322

  1. Hey all. I haven't posted on here in several years, which is when I did my conversion for my 7.62x39. When I did my conversion I got kind of lazy with the front of the gun: the factory fsb was canted and I kept the stock handguard. What I would like to do now is remedy that with a press-on handguard retainer, polymer lower and upper HG w/ gas tube, and a new front gas block and front site base. Problem is, I have been out of this converting game for so long I don't know if the parts I am finding will work.

     

    I had my cart full on K-Var and then I realized I didn't know if what I was getting was the correct size/compatible, because it was a mix of Bulgarian and Russian parts. Then I realized that the FSB and the retainer were for different barrel diameters.

     

    Is there a website to buy what I need for a 7.62x39 non dimpled Saiga and/or a forum post or website that covers this? I know the stuff on Dinzag's website would probably be a direct fit but he doesn't seem to have all of what I need.

     

    Is there a specific non saiga AK variant that is known to be a compatible fit so I can search for those parts? For example, all Bulgarian, Russian, etc. parts?

  2. must log in to view pricing

     

    7.62 for $326 (16"), $333 for 20".

    .223 for $319.

     

    if they are in stock, i have no idea.

     

    Centerfire didnt have any in stock when i placed my order online 2 weeks ago, for the $349 plus free shipping deal. they couldnt tell me when they were going to get the next batch in. so i cancelled the order with them. i then ordered from Classic Arms the same day (last Thursday, in stock) for $349 plus $26 for shipping and it arrived at my FFL in 2 working days.

    i found that place above, AFTER my order had already shipped from Classic Arms. DOH!

     

    Ya know, this is where I got my first one years ago for 275, back when DPH had them for 250. Thanks for the posts everyone.

  3. I hadn't thought of this until reading these posts but bear with me for a moment. If you go to your local auto parts store you can find some adhesive tape designed to be wrapped around headers (you can also find the much more expensive fiberglass wrap). If you were to remove the HG and put a layer of this into it would it remedy the problem of a too hot HG? I guess the only problem I could see is that the heat has to go somewhere and it might reflect too much of it back to the barrel.

     

     

    Thats a good question. I love the stock HG but the heat is a problem. Since heat rises, I don't see the use in ventilating the guard from the bottom. The sides couldn't hurt but I think you need something more. There is hardly any room between the guard and the barrel and I think thats the problem. Maybe some kind of RPK style heatsink, like you find on your CPU.

     

    I think the problem with the insulation option would be that the heat wouldn't be transferring anywhere; so I guess if you did what you are suggesting you would just be heating up the barrel more, and in theory if it kept the guard cooler it might be viable.

     

    Or....water cool it like the Maxim :smoke:

  4. I need a stock (OEM) saiga x39 handguard, the synthetic grey piece, mine got destroyed. I'm looking for something in the 10ish shipped range, or trades. I have an amd65 lower handguard and a base romy upper and lower hg set (blonde wood). I have assorted other parts, so let me know. I can't find one anywhere, if anyone had one it would be a big help.

  5. Ah Naliolith, didn't realize this one was new in the search results!

     

    How hard is it to get the new fsb on a 7.62, will it affect my current 14x1 thread pattern on the first 1 inch of the barrel, how good is the ak74 break and can it be fired with a 7.62 round without modding?

     

    Last, is there another easy way to put on a lug?

  6. I have searched and read all the threads on this topic. I bought a (I think) Romanian spike. I have a faux ak-74 brake. When I put the bayonet on, the rear attachment device of the bayonet ends up just behind the stock FSB. I can't weld it here, as it is open barrel, and I don't want the non-authentic look of a bolt on m16 bayonet lug that I convert to fit the Romy spike.

     

    I suppose then that I am left with a new FSB. However, since the saiga has 1inch of barrel in front of the FSB already, and mine is threaded, how could I keep my brake and get a new FSB without having to move it rearward and have a gap of barrel between the brake and the FSB?

  7. Looks like you have nine foreign parts, so should be OK. The gas tube is not a countable part.

    Wood's all good, as long as stock is for a stamped receiver. Sounds as though you're only doing foreign hand guards.

    Have gotten stuff from Global in the past--they're okay. Depending on what it is, some of it really looks used.

     

    yeah, the only foreign parts I am using is what came on the gun, handguard (which counts as 1 part as I have read), and romy mags.

     

    I think globaltrades is out of business, can't find my bulgy wood grips anywhere else now....

     

    PS, they will fit right? romy would be ok too

  8. Alright, nearing completion of the hardware, paint and such will come later.

     

    These are my american parts:

    pistol grip

    stock

    piston

    tapco fcg

    muzzle brake

     

    Foreign parts:

    receiver

    foreign 30 round mags

    romanian or bulgarian vented gas tube

    romanian or bulgarian upper and lower handguard

     

    Is my parts count acceptable?

     

    Has anyone ordered from http://www.globaltrades.com/ak_parts_general.html ? They have some cheap parts.

     

    Also is romanian or bulgarian wood preferred to fit on saiga's or does it not matter?

     

    EDIT: looks like globaltrades is out of business, kvar also does not have handguards in stock. does anyone else?

  9. akparts.com is coming out the cheapest, but they dont seem to have pistol grip nuts from what I saw (quickly).

     

    Either way, this would be dang cheap. Probably less than 400 when all is done.

     

    One thing, I don't have any experience with the tapco stocks. out of 10, how are they?

  10. Okay guys/gals if any of you are looking to buy a die to thread your barrels, I have found about the cheapest place.

    Check out the following:

     

    Inch pattern dies

    Specifically part #'s 1540242 and 1536242

     

    Metric patern dies

    Specifically part #'s 1253952 and 1254472

     

    I have several coming. I'm not sure of the quality, but for the price, it's probably not an issue.

     

     

    Did this work out for you?

  11. Here are the parts you will need. I assumed $10.00 for shipping. These prices are good from 4 days ago. $250 for the rifle + $90 Parts = $340 total. I'm not sure what you can get a WASR for, but my local shop is asking over $370 +tax. The quality on your Saiga will be much higher than the WASR.

     

    Part Name Tapco.com AKParts.com

    ---------------- --------------- ----------------------

    Trigger Group $31.99 $28.95

    Pistol Grip $10.99 $8.50

    Grip Nut/Screw $7.99 $6.95

    Butt Stock $29.99 $29.95

    Screws $4.99 $5.95

     

    Shipping $10.00 $10.00

    ======== ========= ============

    Total $95.95 $90.30

     

     

    nice. but who has the rifle for 250?

  12. Durring my first conversion I went through two cobalt bits before I was able to drill through the spot weld on the trigger gaurd. On my second conversion I had two burnt out bits that where not worth a damn. I happened to have a tungsten carbide glass drill bit and thought "what the hell". This thing cut through it like it was wood!!! I was amazed.

     

    1. Use a tap to mark your center and prevent the bit from jumping

    2. Use a standard bit to get a small divit started

    3. Whip out your tungsten carbide glass drill bit and carefully drill the area with a pulsating action.

     

    Hope this helps with the hardest part of the conversion.

     

     

    Where do you get those?

  13. I have a makita drill that has 2800rpm as max. I just thrashed a cobalt bit that cost me 8 bucks, a titanium bit did nothing, stainless is worthless....nothing is working. I also put my bolt carrier and piston on a concrete floor and tried hitting a punch with a sledge hammer and that didn't seem to work either. So, I guess now I need to buy a better drill or maybe take it to a smith. So....what would a smith charge and/or what kind of drill/bit would be sufficient?

  14. I found a nice tutorial on replacing the piston over on ak47.net. However, I ONLY have a drill, a semi-functional dremel, and hammers and small tools. No punch or press or anything. Is it possible to get the thing out with a special bit maybe? Or just beating the hell out of the rivet with a spike and hammer?
    On regular AKM/74 rifles you can knock the rivet out with a hammer and punch (this is how i do it), but the Saiga gas pistons are held by dimples in the bolt carrier and need to be drilled out.

     

    What if you drill out the dimples? Looks like I am looking just at the pin now.

  15. I read the tutorials, and will cut off probably half of the sleeve and just thread half of it so that the barrel does not protrude into the compensator more than it has to. I see the notch cut in the comp. that will accommodate a pin from the fsb to keep it from unscrewing during firing. However, if I only cut off half of the sleeve then how can I utilize this pin/notch method?

     

    Also, I see the comp. on ak's where the slots are pointed left and right and obviously not up and down. How does one assure that the slots will be pointing left and right when threading it on? Are there only so many threads you should make.....or do you utilize the fsb pin and dont screw the comp. on very tightly?

  16. You can add a PSL stock, ($10), G2 trigger, ($28), pistol grip nut and bolt, ($6), and make your own bullet guide. Figure another $10 for screws, tap for bullet guide, etc... and $10 for shipping and you're at $64 for everything out the door.

     

    You'll be one part short of complying with 922r with that setup, but since you'd be using a thumbhole stock you'd only be noncompliant if you inserted a foreign high cap mag. If you used US made mags, then you'd have all your bases covered.

     

    What about pistol grip. (15), I could switch the piston for (20) to be compliant. My goal here would be to build a caiga that would in the end cost less than a wasr....which these days are fetching 400 or more for some reason.

     

    Who has a cheap tap set? ebay?

     

    so:

    saiga 16" from dph arms (250)

    g2 group (30)

    grip nut and bolt (7)

    have materials for guide

    tap (unknown amount)

    hitch clips (1.50)

    stock (<30)

    need a new dremel (40+)

    piston (20)

     

    Minus the dremel, looks like around 340 dollars without adding transfer fees, shipping costs, tax, and misc expensis. Im gonna start a tally of links for the cheapest setup. Where are these psl stocks?

     

    piston, grip screw and nut, and pistol grip (44) shipped from dph arms

    16in saiga 7.62x39 and g2 trigger group (275) shipped Why are missippippi auto arm's prices cheaper on here than on his website?

     

    Would just need a stock then....

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