Taking the Conversion Plunge Soon, and have some questions, if I may.

[JWarren 0]

Hi.

 

After getting my Saiga 308, I've become a Saiga fan. I've rethought all of my future firearms purchases.

 

At any rate, I have decided that I will be attempting to convert a 7.62x39 and a 223 on my own.

 

I've read and re-read the tutorials, and I've extensively used the "Search" Feature on this site. Still, I have a couple questions-- or perhaps I need a little confidence that I can pull this off.

 

So far, I don't see any problems with drilling out the rivets and weld, and the basics of moving the FCG.

 

Question #1: On a new Saiga in 7.62x39 and/or 223, can I expect that the pistol grip hole or FCG hole will be already there -- or will I have to cut these?

 

 

I am a little concerned about drilling the hole for the bullet guide. I plan to use Danzig's bullet guides on both.

 

Question #2: Can anyone tell me how difficult this is to do? I have a basic drill press, and will have the ability to firmly secure the rifle. Is there anything I seriously need to worry about even with using a lot of lube and going slow?

 

 

I plan on going to a traditional forearm on at least one rifle (the 7.62x39)

 

Question #3: Am I going to have to replace out the gas tube on either the 7.62X39 or the 223 to put on a traditional forearm?

 

Question #4: How difficult can I expect removing the FSB and Gas block to be? I do not have access to a press, but could take it to a machinist if I had to. And how hard will it be to get them back on?

 

Ideally, I would like to thread both rifles' barrels. I have a machinist that is confident that he can turn down the barrels without having to pull them. In about a week, he will be doing this to my S-308.

 

Question #5: Am I going to have to turn down the barrels, or are they at the correct diameter?

 

Question #6: Should both barrels be threaded 14X1 mm negative threads?

 

Question #7: Will I have to bore out the FSB for either the 7.62x39 or 223 in order to push it back an inch?

 

 

I have a couple ideas about connecting the Trigger guard and also filling the left-over holes in the reciever. I wanted to get your opinions on it and/or find out if anyone has done this before.

 

Rather than put in plastic plugs in the left over reciever holes (its just a preference of mine to have metal), has anyone ever considered using Drive Screws? I am thinking that if I hammered them in, and then slightly spot welded the interior part (just to make sure the NEVER come out on thier own), then they would simply look like another reciever rivet.

 

Since they would not be under stress, I would expect no problems and would look very natural on the rifle.

 

 

In addition, I was thinking about doing the same thing with the Drive Screws to secure the trigger guard. I am thinking that if I used them, and then popped a small spot weld inside the rifle, it would hold very securely and not have any risk of backing out loose. Because the trigger guard really isn't a stressed part, I would anticipate no issues.

 

I realize that the nut and bolt approach works well, and I am not suggesting that is not a good way. I was just trying to think outside the box.

 

The reason that I mentioned hitting the inside part of the Drive Screw with a spot weld is simple: I am still not convinced that Drive Screws would ALWAYS be secure. If I were able to make a small contact weld, I would know they were.

 

I don't have the confidence in my welding to simply weld up the holes or weld the trigger guard on. And this seems to be a good alternative. Its a lot easier to make a small interior spot weld than a weld-up job, and I know I can do that.

 

Question #8: What are you guys thoughts on this possiblity? Think I am onto something here?

 

 

Question #9: Can you think of anything I've missed? Am I on the right track to get'er done?

 

 

 

Thanks in advance all!

 

 

 

John

[csspecs 1,987]

1. Don't expect it, you can see if it is there from the top of the receiver. So if your dealer has a few check through them until you find one with it cut already.

 

2. That steel is VERY HARD, get good bits and a few of them (pay the extra 2.00 a pack, its worth it).

 

3. Yep you need a new one.

 

4. Its safe to say that if they used three hardened steel rivets to hold the little plate on the bottom of the rifle, that the barrel is going to be on there pretty good.

 

8. The plastic filler pieces look darn good and stay it just fine. I don't know about the rest.

[JWarren 0]

csspec,

 

Sorry I haven't replied yet. Thanks for the information. I should be starting this conversion fairly soon, and will update as to how it's going. I have a few things to finish on the 308 first.

 

John

[AegisDei 2]

Question #1: On a new Saiga in 7.62x39 and/or 223, can I expect that the pistol grip hole or FCG hole will be already there -- or will I have to cut these?

Likely it will be there, but there's not a guarantee. But cutting it yourself isn't too hard.

Question #2: Can anyone tell me how difficult this is to do? I have a basic drill press, and will have the ability to firmly secure the rifle. Is there anything I seriously need to worry about even with using a lot of lube and going slow?

This isn't hard at all. You could do it with a hand-drill, blindfolded. Just be sure to get a very good center punch hole to start.

Question #3: Am I going to have to replace out the gas tube on either the 7.62X39 or the 223 to put on a traditional forearm?

Yes

Question #4: How difficult can I expect removing the FSB and Gas block to be? I do not have access to a press, but could take it to a machinist if I had to. And how hard will it be to get them back on?

This is a tough project. I'd suggest getting Dinzag's new HG retainer. That way you won't have to take the FSB or GB off. Otherwise, you'll be in for a tough time.

Question #5: Am I going to have to turn down the barrels, or are they at the correct diameter?

You'll probably have to remove the barrel shroud in front of the FSB.

Question #6: Should both barrels be threaded 14X1 mm negative threads?

doesn't much matter, it's whatever you want, but that is the standard thread and there are a ton of brakes made to fit it.

Question #7: Will I have to bore out the FSB for either the 7.62x39 or 223 in order to push it back an inch?

why would you push it back an inch? you'd have to notch your barrel for the retaining pins, and likely borre it out just a little bit. i'd not suggest doing this...

Question #8: What are you guys thoughts on this possiblity? Think I am onto something here?

go for it! innovation is what keeps this forum going.

Question #9: Can you think of anything I've missed? Am I on the right track to get'er done?

nope, just get those HG retainers from Dinzag...it's too much work otherwise.

[JWarren 0]

AegisDei,

 

Thanks for that comprehensive addressing of my issues That helps alot.

 

On Question #7, I was thinking that the 223 and the 7.62x39 were like the 308, requiring a bit of a push-back to thread. I see better now.

 

On Question $4, you are dead right. That retainer is the way to go. I have to start thinking more in terms of KSS.

 

I'm going to see if I can have the rifles checked for the Pistol grip holes before I order.... with luck I won't have to do the cutting.

 

I have thought over it, and I have decided that I will go the route of Drive Screws with a spot weld (which probably isn't necessary) on the spare holes and the trigger guard. Mainly, I am going to do this because it seems that no one has done it. It may be interesting to do it that way and post my results for future and existing converters.

 

After all, I've gained a lot of knowledge from you guys. It would feel good if I could give something back.

 

 

All the best and thanks again!

 

John