sourceofuncertainty 0 Posted March 6, 2007 Report Share Posted March 6, 2007 I'd posed this question in the middle of an earlier thread about the gas system, but it occurred to me that it probably makes more sense as a separate topic. So here goes: The model of S12 I've got doesn't have a bolt hold-open. I purchased an extended safety from Blackjack in hopes of solving two problems at once (better ergonomics for the safety, and adding a hold-open). As best I can tell, there isn't a way to remove the existing safety without first removing the fire control group. But the only instructions I've seen on removing a Saiga FCG are for converting it... in other words, drilling out rivets, etc. - permanent changes. Is there a standard procedure for safety selector and/or FCG removal on a non-converted S12 that doesn't involve permanent conversion? I've been scouring the threads here and elsewhere, and haven't found anything other than permanent conversion instructions. If I go the conversion route I'll most likely leave that up to an expert (hi Tony). For now I just want to pop in a better safety selector. Thanks again for the enlightenment & tips - they're much appreciated! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
erikm98 0 Posted March 7, 2007 Report Share Posted March 7, 2007 I'd posed this question in the middle of an earlier thread about the gas system, but it occurred to me that it probably makes more sense as a separate topic. So here goes: The model of S12 I've got doesn't have a bolt hold-open. I purchased an extended safety from Blackjack in hopes of solving two problems at once (better ergonomics for the safety, and adding a hold-open). As best I can tell, there isn't a way to remove the existing safety without first removing the fire control group. But the only instructions I've seen on removing a Saiga FCG are for converting it... in other words, drilling out rivets, etc. - permanent changes. Is there a standard procedure for safety selector and/or FCG removal on a non-converted S12 that doesn't involve permanent conversion? I've been scouring the threads here and elsewhere, and haven't found anything other than permanent conversion instructions. If I go the conversion route I'll most likely leave that up to an expert (hi Tony). For now I just want to pop in a better safety selector. Thanks again for the enlightenment & tips - they're much appreciated! On mine after i got the bolt hold open out and decock the hammer i am able to rotate the safety far enough that it goes past the disconnector (lifting it up and basicaly pulling the trigger, so make sure that you decock it first so the hammer doesnt fly up on you) and then slide it out. If that doesnt work you can take out the actual trigger pin (the one above the plate on the bottom of the reciever) and remove the trigger and diconector then take out the safety. They are all atached together so it would be easy to put back together. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sourceofuncertainty 0 Posted March 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2007 On mine after i got the bolt hold open out and decock the hammer i am able to rotate the safety far enough that it goes past the disconnector (lifting it up and basicaly pulling the trigger, so make sure that you decock it first so the hammer doesnt fly up on you) and then slide it out. If that doesnt work you can take out the actual trigger pin (the one above the plate on the bottom of the reciever) and remove the trigger and diconector then take out the safety. They are all atached together so it would be easy to put back together. I wonder if this is set up differently on different models, 'cause on mine the safety definitely won't go past the disconnector as you're describing. I've had a few AKs where it was tricky to do it, but on this particular Saiga I'm pretty sure it's impossible to just remove it like that. Either that or I just don't have the spacial skills to figure it out. But I've sat there with the damn thing for a good 30-40 minutes examining the clearances between the disconnector and the "flat" on the safety, and there just doesn't seem to be a way to make that happen. The trouble with removing the trigger pin is that it's held in place by the shepherd's crook, and -that- appears to be a different setup from a standard AK too - I don't see a way to remove it without badly deforming it... so I seem to be back at square 1 where the only way to get this apart is to go the route of permanent conversion and start drilling or making permanent changes. Am I missing something here? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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