PG conversion - welding up the receiver holes ?

[StealthyBlagga 4]

After completing the PG conversion, I am left with the now-redundant sporter trigger pin holes in the receiver. For those of you who weld up these unwanted holes, how do you do it ? Obviously, TIG welding is best, and that is what I plan to do, but how exactly ?

 

- Back the holes with a copper plate, then fill in with welding rod ?

- Cut matching disks of steel and weld them in place ?

- Something else ?

 

Share your wisdom with me

[E-TAC 47]

Use a good welding rod only; start your pool at the edge and fill in the hole by snaking back and forth. Practice on some matching scrap and watch your heat. It's not hard, you just got to practice.

 

Aloha

[keyser223 0]

I know you were specifically asking about welding the holes shut, but honestly I seen no need for it. The black nylon 3/16" hole plugs from the local hardware store honestly match the finish perfectly, they stay in tight, and they look identical to factory rivets. All for around $2 and little effort.

[striker754 0]

Go to ace hardware, buy a copper rivet and needle nose pliers. Have someone hold the rivet on the back side of the weld. Weld up the hole. Move onto the next hole. Grind down. You can't even tell there were holes there on mine.

[73cj5 1]

I have clamped a piece of aluminum to the back of the hole and used a mig welder for the front. Low amperage and high wire speed. I can check my settings if need be. I use a die grinder with 3m pads to smooth it out. Attached are some pics for your viewing please:)

 

 

 

[StealthyBlagga 4]

Thanks guys. As I will have the TIG running for the trigger guard anyway, I thought I'd give the holes a try. I have an old lump of copper I think will do the job. I'll practice a few times on 1/16" sheet first, just to be safe.

 

Once done, I'll try to post pics (if there are no pics in a few days, you'll know its all gone horribly wrong ).

[striker754 0]

THose pics look like you need grinding inside the receiver. you shouldnt need to do that. I wouldnt do this with a MIG, thats just me

[73cj5 1]

THose pics look like you need grinding inside the receiver. you shouldnt need to do that. I wouldnt do this with a MIG, thats just me

 

 

What do you want for a 5 minute trial:)

 

I had the aluminum lightly clamped, that is why there is some slag on the inside. If the buck was flush, there wouldnt be any there. I usually use copper bus bar for bucking welds, but my garage is a mess and I cant find anything in there:)

[GTOShootr 0]

I used stainless rod with the Tig and worked the pool across the holes like Jammer said. To attach one of Tony's trigger guards I used some stainless wire for a smaller bead.

Edited April 12, 2007 by GTOShootr

[StealthyBlagga 4]

OK, I did it. I backed each hole with a copper block, then I used my TIG welder to add metal using hand-held MIG wire. My weld-fu is not the strongest, so the welds look pretty crappy, but they should be solid. My Dremel work is also not all it could be, so I'll be relying heavily on the masking ability of whatever BBQ paint I use . Here are some pics of the process:

 

 

 

 

 

[striker754 0]

No need for stainless rod. I don't know why you would.

 

YOu have some small gaps on the edges of your weld, just fire up the welder again and fill those in an grind down. Flap discs work well for this

[StealthyBlagga 4]

YOu have some small gaps on the edges of your weld, just fire up the welder again and fill those in an grind down. Flap discs work well for this

 

Yeah, I saw that. I'm too lazy to go over them again, so I'm going to rely on the Rustoleum to minimize the cosmetic impact. Hell, the gun is hardly a work of art, and one could argue these dimples add character .

[Mbsk01 0]

I have clamped a piece of aluminum to the back of the hole and used a mig welder for the front. Low amperage and high wire speed. I can check my settings if need be. I use a die grinder with 3m pads to smooth it out. Attached are some pics for your viewing please:)

 

 

 

 

Wow, that looks good. What kind of 3M pads did you use?

[73cj5 1]

I use 3m scotchlock pads on a die grinder. I start with course, then, med, then fine, and very fine. takes about 3 min.

 

I think I will stick with my MIG;)