GTOShootr

I would PM Jack for complete instructions. The directions say to line up the front edge of the magwell with the front edge of the underside of the receiver. Transfer the location of the front hole, drill and tap it, anchor the magwell with front screw, and then do the same to the rear holes. Then you scribe the sides of the mag opening and open it up.

You need a temporary pin to hold the spring in the release while you align the holes. I used a nail cut down to fit in the release lever and hold the spring in, without extending out the sides of the lever. Holding those together, you put them in the receiver, compress the spring a little, align the holes, and drive the real pin through. The real pin pushes out the temporary pin as it goes in. It is still a pain in the ass but helps a bunch.

I had the same thoughts. In fact, I started with a fired case thinking that was simple. When pushing up on the case, if the round stock wasn't right out to the rim, the center of the case started to collapse. The thought of wedging it in there wasn't good. The second thing was that it just wobbled all around. You are putting a good amount of force on the stacked pieces and they just want to kick out and mess shit up. So I determined that first I need to turn a piece the size of a rim, but then I figured while I'm at it I'd turn the whole thing that fit in the chamber and extended out the right

I've never worked on an AK. However, pressing the barrel out of my S12 was easier than I thought it would be. I found all the directions I need on this site somewhere thanks to some really good posters, like Tony, Esteban, Cobra, and others. I turned a piece of delrin on my lathe that was the profile of a 12ga shell but extended longer out the chamber by a couple inches. I drifted out the pins and took off the gas block with the gas tube. In a press, I hold the S12 vertically, with a bar behind that piece extending from the chamber while at the same time placing a pipe over the barrel. The bot

I've used both my TIG and MIG. I did the scope mount holes of my buddies this morning and MIGed them. Use .023 wire and sort of stitch it up (don't lay down a bead). A mini air angle grinder with an assortment of Rol Loc discs is your friend.

I just wasn't getting a significant result from my Polychoke. It wasn't taking plates down even on X-full like it should have, it was actually hardly noticable. A friend just bought a set of the screw-on Russian chokes and those performed better. We haven't tested them thoroughly on plates but the Mod was smoking clays on the trap field impressively. My next next step might be Rem chokes depending on how the external ones test out on plates. Maybe there are variations from bore to bore, just like there seems to be on every other part of these guns so your gun might respond to a Polychoke

I have one of Jack's magwells on my S12 and I just installed two more on my friend's guns yesterday. They are beautiful. Easy to install and the mag fitting is a breeze. Jack was really great in answering PMs on the BE forum too. Derek at Millenium is one of the best pistol gunsmiths in the country, so Jack's association with MCG is a great endorsement. Order these with confidence. The magwell brings out the full potential of the S12. I'm looking forward to the mag release and anything else JT can come up with. What is the advantage of new version of the magwell? Steve

No Ion Bond for Tarans S12? I'm thinking that would be a very expensive job and not really necessary if Norrell is that good. Ion Bond just sounds really bulletproof. I'd like to have my pistols done with it. The best finish I've had on my pistols is a Tripp hard chrome job. They don't do it anymore. I also imagine that would be expensive for a shotgun sized item.

+1 Whatever you use to shoot a moving target like clays, you're likely to need some sort of lead. You just need to learn your leads with the dot like you would anything else.

I say go with optics, but go back and try irons alone again. That is best way to learn what works best. Weighing the pros and cons, the optics always win out for me, especially with a Saiga. Hitting clays might be easier without an optic with a vent rib shotgun where you are close to the bore, but with a Saiga the advantage is only slight since you are dealing with a sight-to-bore offset with irons anyways. A dot only adds only a little more offset. The dot sight will give you two eyes open precision shots faster with a target focus, which is great for quick transitions. Also since Saigas

Maybe it is an official rule for some sanctioning or something but at our matches they weren't DQing for failing a magnet test. They just did the test before the stage was shot and people that failed just borrowed non-magnetic. They definitely had been getting holes poked through their steel at 80 yards, not just dimples. This is a large club that regularly holds Area and Section matches, and their steel is the good AR500 stuff. I wish it wasn't true. Steel is fun to shoot with the rifles yet we don't have the space to have many 100+ yard stages.

At the range that holds the rifle matches I shoot they tested a S&B .223 load with "bi-metal" jacketed bullets like Wolf uses and it went right through their AR500 plates.

http://www.usshootingacademy.com/content.aspx?id=126 That's pretty cool! That is some place and team to be a part of. It is an incredible facility. I haven't been there since 06 but I can't wait to go again in Sept for the USPSA Open Nationals and see what else has been completed.

You have to make sure it doesn't have a steel in the bullets that will penetrate steel targets. I believe some Wolf does, some doesn't. The people that run the match will hate you if you put holes in their steel. I saw that happen and the RO was not happy. At a match I shoot they use a magnet to check your ammo before a stage with steel. I've shot some of it for practice. It just makes your chamber really dirty and I think I remember getting stuck cases in the chamber after switching back to my brass-cased reloads. I figured the brass was expanding more so than the steel cases were and ge

If you smooth out your bolt like Tony and Mike show in the "what needs to be smoothed?" thread, the loading of a full mag to a closed bolt is easier. With an extended mag release, acccessible with your strong hand remaining on the grip, a weak hand load is the fastest way to go. Getting out on the range with a timer and doing it a bunch of different ways is the only way to figure out what is fast. There is always a little time lost between dry fire using a par time and actual time of live fire. You can't feel how fast something is. Actually, when your really going fast, things appear to h