RustyShackleford 0 Posted May 17, 2008 Report Share Posted May 17, 2008 I have a saiga .223 and a new 6x42 psop scope. The problem has been zeroing the scope and after searching the forum it looks like some people have used washers on the back of the mount to "raise" the scope and allow for more adjusting to zero properly. My question is can anyone go into more detail; because my psop has pins holding the mount together after the screws have been removed. I used a punch to try and remove them but they are pretty stiff and im not ready to take a hammer to my new scope. Thanks in advance... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
taurussvt 0 Posted May 17, 2008 Report Share Posted May 17, 2008 Is it common for people to not be able to get these things pointing low enough? I've only zero'd one before, the one on my rifle but it was no problem. I did however have to turn the elevation below zero. That was no big deal though, just loosen up the silver screws and turn the knob to what I figured was enough while leaving the sliver ring on zero. I had the thing all dialed in within about 6 shots. I just kept the rifle as still as possible and moved the reticle to just under the POI, then it got closer and closer until I had reached the limit of the scope. By reaching the limit I mean that if the clicks moved the reticle half or even less of what they move it I would have gotten it exactly where I wanted it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted May 18, 2008 Report Share Posted May 18, 2008 (edited) Really interesting, U don't have to take your scope mounts apart. First put the screws back into the mount, second look at the turrets elevation and windage each turret has 3 screws on top of the turret, the turret has a cam silver with a black top ok loose the 2 screws on each side top of the turret but dont touch the center screw and I mean just loose the screws dont take them out, that is going to disable the cams now U can move the black serated plate on top of the cams like that U can zero your scope after that thigth the screws back and U done with it. Work on elevation and windage, no need to use any hammers or any other stuff on anything. Now look at the number on the cam on the elevation turret, it has number 0 to 20 and on the back of the turret is a plate with a notch on it, before U tight the screws on the turret on the elevation turret put the number 10 on that notch and tight your screws. That will give U bullet drop competition, like that if U zero at 12 pm and temperature change latter on and changes zero U can move it up or down to compensate for bullet drop at different temperatures and always come back to your pre zero latter on. Same with windage turret U put the cam on the 0 and latter if U have change of wins U can compensate for it and come back latter to your pre set zero. By the way the windage turret has numbers 0 to 10 on red and 0 to 10 on black put the 0 on the notch on the plate. Dont forget to tight the screws were U done and U set on the scope. Edited May 18, 2008 by vjor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RustyShackleford 0 Posted May 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2008 jesus i feel dumb, i even looked at the screws and wondered what they were for. Thanks vjor ill have to go out and actually zero in my rifle now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted May 20, 2008 Report Share Posted May 20, 2008 jesus i feel dumb, i even looked at the screws and wondered what they were for. Thanks vjor ill have to go out and actually zero in my rifle now. Don't feel dumb brother, not a lot of people know how to fully work the Russians scopes and red dots plus is not to much info out there in English on how U fully use these things. Any way good luck and enjoy your gun and scope. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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