Well I got my reloading press this week end.

[csspecs 1,987]

Well I just got back from the target pit, my reloads did not kill me and everything worked well.

 

One thing I would like to know is if these will go down my barrel.

The link is to a lee reloading product for casting your own slugs that will fit in a normal shot cup, they say they work better than rifled slugs in a rifled barrel, I don't have a rifled barrel but I don't really care how accurate they are (just plinking stuff).

http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/br...ow.html#shotgun

 

I have a source for cheap/free lead (I have to get it and melt it into workable stuff). So this or a shot maker are my next purchase.

[patriot 7,197]

Precision Reloading has everyting you'll need. They publish a book, Blanks to Supersonics that has some great slug data as well as tips.

 

Oh, and make SURE you don't try to melt down lead from batteries. VERY bad juju.

Edited July 1, 2008 by patriot

[csspecs 1,987]

I am getting the lead from a target range, just needs to be scooped and melted.

[csspecs 1,987]

Ok something that has me a little confused, Sabot slugs are for rifled barrels only, and there is a rifled choke for the saiga-12.

 

So is the "no sabots in a smooth bore" and accuracy thing or am I going to blow up my gun? I would like to use Sabots because you can reload them in target load hulls using normal shotcups. Thus saving money.

[patriot 7,197]

It's an accuracy thing, and some slugs are for rifled barrels, some are ok smoothbore. Neither will hurt your gun, unless you run them through a tight choke. Only fire slugs through imp cyl or cyl bore.

 

Of course, of it's the OTHER kind of slugs, it's kind of fun to pour salt on 'em and watch them dissolve!

Edited July 4, 2008 by patriot

[csspecs 1,987]

Ok just wanted to let everyone know that they work.

 

UPS brought my lead melter and slug molds today while I was at work, so when I got home at 6:30 I spent some time reading the instructions, the mold said it would not work with my wheel weight lead that I had. So I was a little bugged, after dinner I was feeling like just giving it a try, after all I could always melt the wheel weight lead back out if it got stuck. So I fired up the lead melter and lubed the mold, turns out that wheel weight lead was just fine.

 

Made a small pile (OK I made 100) of 7/8oz sabot slugs, then it was off to find some reload data for the tub of powder I am working on using up, found that I was under the max loads by quite a bit with the charge bars I had, I used the same loading as a 1 1/8oz target load. Ran down to the target pit three miles away with the first ten we made, they have about the same recoil as a target load and seem to hold an OK pattern at 40 yards or so (I won't be varmint hunting with these from what I saw). They only slightly mushroom on impact, this could have something to do with the wheel weight lead I am using.

 

I'll pattern them next trip out, if you want any other info I'll see what I can do.

 

Oh yeah I am using winchester AA target hulls with standard AA wads.

Edited July 10, 2008 by csspecs

[belt fed frog 56]

csspecs,

 

They only slightly mushroom on impact, this could have something to do with the wheel weight lead I am using.

 

yes because wheel weights are alloyed to make them harder Virgin lead is quite soft and that is what the lee mold is designed for but you will not hurt it , if you do get range lead it is near virgin and you can harden it by adding a few wheel weights to each pot of lead and stiring it well

 

just do all your lead work outside in a well ventlated area

[748 0]

I just ordered one.

[748 0]

I just ordered one.