monkeyboogers 0 Posted July 2, 2008 Report Share Posted July 2, 2008 Does anyone have pics or details on how to move the trigger forward so a pistol grip can be installed ? Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hobbyshooter 59 Posted July 2, 2008 Report Share Posted July 2, 2008 Field strip. Remove original trigger group Remove rivets to trigger guard and forward safety stop/cover plate Cut PG nut hole (or use a trigger guard with the nut in it Reassemble with new trigger group. Read through this: http://www.cross-conn.com/Saiga_Conversion/index.htm Steps 1-3 are relevant. The shotgun should already have the forward trigger group hole so all you have to worry about is the pistol grip nut hole. Step 5 shows how to go the cheap route. Several have done that, but lately the opinion seems to be that it is worth spending extra money on the easy route (very nice parts and much easier than salvaging the original trigger guard http://saigatechusa.com/ ). Step 7-1 through 7-3 are irrelevant if you buy the TROMIX modified trigger group. 7-10 is not the popular way for axle retention. I used a KREBS shotgun specific retainer plate and it was easy! Step 8 is completely irrelevant to the shotgun. I had to do something similar to step 9 to clear the rear bolt head of the Saigatechusa trigger guard kit except I milled a slot down the center running along the parting line. Step 10 & 11 do not apply. The only trick to reassembly is to use dental floss to hold the BHO lever spring down. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monkeyboogers 0 Posted July 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2008 Field strip.Remove original trigger group Remove rivets to trigger guard and forward safety stop/cover plate Cut PG nut hole (or use a trigger guard with the nut in it Reassemble with new trigger group. Read through this: http://www.cross-conn.com/Saiga_Conversion/index.htm Steps 1-3 are relevant. The shotgun should already have the forward trigger group hole so all you have to worry about is the pistol grip nut hole. Step 5 shows how to go the cheap route. Several have done that, but lately the opinion seems to be that it is worth spending extra money on the easy route (very nice parts and much easier than salvaging the original trigger guard http://saigatechusa.com/ ). Step 7-1 through 7-3 are irrelevant if you buy the TROMIX modified trigger group. 7-10 is not the popular way for axle retention. I used a KREBS shotgun specific retainer plate and it was easy! Step 8 is completely irrelevant to the shotgun. I had to do something similar to step 9 to clear the rear bolt head of the Saigatechusa trigger guard kit except I milled a slot down the center running along the parting line. Step 10 & 11 do not apply. The only trick to reassembly is to use dental floss to hold the BHO lever spring down. Looks to hard and time consuming . The local gun shop wants $800. for full converions. They won't move the trigger without doing it all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SaigaNoobie 66 Posted July 2, 2008 Report Share Posted July 2, 2008 $800 on top of the gun? Wow, dude, it will take you $100 and 3 hours to do it... do you make $200 an hour? If not it's worth your time to do it yourself. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hobbyshooter 59 Posted July 2, 2008 Report Share Posted July 2, 2008 $800 sounds like they are trying to drive you away. http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=27253 "Conversions: The basic conversion for a customer supplied gun runs $375. This includes: Supplied TAPCO SAW grip, supplied TAPCO G2 single hook trigger group, modified to work properly in the Saiga and polished bearing surfaces for a smoother pull, supplied TAPCO Bulgarian buttstock, TAPCO side folder, or Tapco M4 style telescoping stock, the bottom of the bolt and carrier relieved and smoothed for more reliable feeding, the extractor and extractor notch tuned, chamber "feed ramp" beveled and chamber notches beveled, trigger and yoke holes welded up and dressed, as are any visible rivet holes. The factory trigger guard is retained and welded on, as is the safety lever stop. A piece is cut and welded on the receiver under the rear end of the SAW grip which prevents it from twisting side to side as they will when installed. Also the BHO will be notched for clearance of the safety, shortened so as not to be hit by the firing hand when firing, and the safety adjusted to eliminate excessive movement of the trigger in the safe position and ease of movement. Blasting down to bare metal and Duracoated in black, other solid colors upon request. The gas block will be inspected and the ports checked, if needed, adjustments to be made." Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bkelm18 0 Posted July 2, 2008 Report Share Posted July 2, 2008 I thought it looked hard and time consuming too. But once I did it, I realized it was ridiculously easy. Took me 3 hours and all I had was a Dremel and a cordless drill. A large portion of that 3 hours was just trying to drill through the dang spot weld. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
zone1935 5 Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 Without out knowing how you want your gun to turn out, it is nearly impossible to judge how hard and time consuming the job would be. In my opinion, though, a basic conversion is not extremely hard with the information on this forum and the products that are available to make the conversion easier. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tiny 2 Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 (edited) Here's a link to a web page that I used to do my two S-12 Conversions it's pretty straight forward and if you go this rout to do your conversion you get to use the OEM trigger guard. http://www.gunsnet.net/forums/showthread.php?t=216631 Edited July 3, 2008 by Tiny Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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