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moving the trigger forward


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Field strip.

Remove original trigger group

Remove rivets to trigger guard and forward safety stop/cover plate

Cut PG nut hole (or use a trigger guard with the nut in it

Reassemble with new trigger group.

 

Read through this:

http://www.cross-conn.com/Saiga_Conversion/index.htm

 

Steps 1-3 are relevant. The shotgun should already have the forward trigger group hole so all you have to worry about is the pistol grip nut hole. Step 5 shows how to go the cheap route. Several have done that, but lately the opinion seems to be that it is worth spending extra money on the easy route (very nice parts and much easier than salvaging the original trigger guard http://saigatechusa.com/ ). Step 7-1 through 7-3 are irrelevant if you buy the TROMIX modified trigger group. 7-10 is not the popular way for axle retention. I used a KREBS shotgun specific retainer plate and it was easy! Step 8 is completely irrelevant to the shotgun. I had to do something similar to step 9 to clear the rear bolt head of the Saigatechusa trigger guard kit except I milled a slot down the center running along the parting line. Step 10 & 11 do not apply.

 

The only trick to reassembly is to use dental floss to hold the BHO lever spring down.

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Field strip.

Remove original trigger group

Remove rivets to trigger guard and forward safety stop/cover plate

Cut PG nut hole (or use a trigger guard with the nut in it

Reassemble with new trigger group.

 

Read through this:

http://www.cross-conn.com/Saiga_Conversion/index.htm

 

Steps 1-3 are relevant. The shotgun should already have the forward trigger group hole so all you have to worry about is the pistol grip nut hole. Step 5 shows how to go the cheap route. Several have done that, but lately the opinion seems to be that it is worth spending extra money on the easy route (very nice parts and much easier than salvaging the original trigger guard http://saigatechusa.com/ ). Step 7-1 through 7-3 are irrelevant if you buy the TROMIX modified trigger group. 7-10 is not the popular way for axle retention. I used a KREBS shotgun specific retainer plate and it was easy! Step 8 is completely irrelevant to the shotgun. I had to do something similar to step 9 to clear the rear bolt head of the Saigatechusa trigger guard kit except I milled a slot down the center running along the parting line. Step 10 & 11 do not apply.

 

The only trick to reassembly is to use dental floss to hold the BHO lever spring down.

 

 

Looks to hard and time consuming . The local gun shop wants $800. for full converions. They won't move the trigger without doing it all.

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$800 sounds like they are trying to drive you away.

 

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=27253

"Conversions:

The basic conversion for a customer supplied gun runs $375.

This includes: Supplied TAPCO SAW grip, supplied TAPCO G2 single hook trigger group, modified to work properly in the Saiga and polished bearing surfaces for a smoother pull, supplied TAPCO Bulgarian buttstock, TAPCO side folder, or Tapco M4 style telescoping stock, the bottom of the bolt and carrier relieved and smoothed for more reliable feeding, the extractor and extractor notch tuned, chamber "feed ramp" beveled and chamber notches beveled, trigger and yoke holes welded up and dressed, as are any visible rivet holes. The factory trigger guard is retained and welded on, as is the safety lever stop. A piece is cut and welded on the receiver under the rear end of the SAW grip which prevents it from twisting side to side as they will when installed. Also the BHO will be notched for clearance of the safety, shortened so as not to be hit by the firing hand when firing, and the safety adjusted to eliminate excessive movement of the trigger in the safe position and ease of movement. Blasting down to bare metal and Duracoated in black, other solid colors upon request. The gas block will be inspected and the ports checked, if needed, adjustments to be made."

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I thought it looked hard and time consuming too. But once I did it, I realized it was ridiculously easy. Took me 3 hours and all I had was a Dremel and a cordless drill. A large portion of that 3 hours was just trying to drill through the dang spot weld.

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Without out knowing how you want your gun to turn out, it is nearly impossible to judge how hard and time consuming the job would be. In my opinion, though, a basic conversion is not extremely hard with the information on this forum and the products that are available to make the conversion easier.

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