Welding vs Silver solder for a muzzle device?

[IPSC_GUY 3]

I am getting ready to put my Polychoke on and I want opinions on welding, and on silver solder (the 1200 degree silver solder) for permanently attaching the base of the choke to the barrel.

 

Pros and cons of each?

 

IPSC_GUY

SIERRA II ALPHA

 

[expeditionx 1]

I am getting ready to put my Polychoke on and I want opinions on welding, and on silver solder (the 1200 degree silver solder) for permanently attaching the base of the choke to the barrel.

 

Pros and cons of each?

 

IPSC_GUY

SIERRA II ALPHA

 

I'm fairly certain that silver solder requies the use of flux.

The issue with flux is that different fluxes have sodium, potassium, chlorine,

and fluorine in them. The metal and nonmetal combination we know as salts

will hold moisture on the surface of the steel. Fe + H2O = FeO + H2 Iron plus

water=rust plus hydrogen gas Your muzzle area will slowly corrode and chip

away as you fire the gun. Tig welding is a much better option with no ill effects.

Edited July 23, 2008 by expeditionx

[THE_HUNTER 2]

I had a bead sight once silver soldered on a Remington 870 barrel and the area around got light oxidation, messing up the blueing some. Stick with welding.

[Azrial 1,091]

Silver solder has usually been the preferred way of attaching a muzzle device to the end of a barrel.

 

Welding has the danger of changing the metallurgical characteristics of the barrel and causing it to warp. If you go with welding on such a thin piece of steel I would suggest that you use the services of a real pro.

[THE_HUNTER 2]

Amen. Professional gunsmith that. I did.

[Havoc308 3]

Silver solder is probably the way to go if you are doing it yourself unless you are a fantastic welder. Brownell's makes a silver solder paste that a one part deal. Just apply to parts, heat up and go. Plus, the solder is less permanent t than welding. Use ammonia or baking soda + water to neutralize the flux, rinse well.

[expeditionx 1]

Silver solder is probably the way to go if you are doing it yourself unless you are a fantastic welder. Brownell's makes a silver solder paste that a one part deal. Just apply to parts, heat up and go. Plus, the solder is less permanent t than welding. Use ammonia or baking soda + water to neutralize the flux, rinse well.

 

Once the choke is set in place and cooling from the soldering process,

your not going to be able to efficiently flush any kind of flux residue

from the threads. A professional gunsmith with 30 years of experience

silver soldered a choke in place on a shotgun he was selling me. A year

later I saw major pitting and chipping in the bore right where the muzzle

contacts the choke. This has never occured on any other shotgun I own

with chokes, but they have never been silver soldered. I remember

Tony Rumore a while back commenting about the corrosiveness of

silver solder.

Edited July 23, 2008 by expeditionx

[Red Jacket 329]

I don't care for solder myself on these gun's . I prefer blind pin's or set screw's then a weld over the top . finish it out and you can't tell it was done .

[IPSC_GUY 3]

I don't care for solder myself on these gun's . I prefer blind pin's or set screw's then a weld over the top . finish it out and you can't tell it was done .

 

Is there enough material in the barrel for a blind pin?

 

IPSC_GUY

SIERRA II ALPHA