FiveLiterEater96 0 Posted January 29, 2005 Report Share Posted January 29, 2005 I need the following... 1) A parts list including links. 2) A link to the webpage that shows you how to do it 3) Any advice since I have never done this before. 4) Any problems I may run into during the project. 5) A total price. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric86GT 0 Posted January 29, 2005 Report Share Posted January 29, 2005 (edited) FiveLiter, I had my .308 all of a week (unfired) before I converted it. Not bad at all. The worst part was bending the trigger guard to fit the Choate Drag stock. I bought my stuff from www.blackjackbuffers.com and bought the stock direct from the manufacturer http://www.choatemachinetool.com/ From Blackjack Buffers: -Blackjack Buffers green AK recoil buffer -AK-47 Shephard's Crook replacement plate -Tapco (Gordon) G2 single hook fire control group (although you can use the double hook and just file another slot for the other hook -Chinese pistol grip nut -Wolff AK-47 disconnector spring (Otherwise you'll have to drill larger holes in the trigger and disconnector to use the stock spring. I did this so that if I need to replace the spring, it'll be easy to find a replacement.) From Choate: -AK Dragunov Stock -Cheekrest (for whenever I get a scope) Miscellaneous: -6-32 or 8-32 machine scews (I used SS) and nuts for mounting the trigger guard -Sem self-etching primer -Sem trim black to paint unfinished receiver bottom (both from auto paint store) I used Sheik's website for a reference: http://www.cross-conn.com/Saiga_Conversion/ If I had used another pistol grip, bending the guard wouldn't have taken so much time. Also after having a hard time drilling through the spot weld on my 7.62x39, I heated up the three spot welds on the .308 with a propane torch before drilling. I could've gone cheaper, but I also used a recoil buffer, shephard's crook replacement plate instead of the spring to hold the axles in place, and Wolff disconnector spring. I also ordered the pistol grip nut and scew, but the Choate stock comes with a screw. I could've saved $7 by buying just the nut. Total without shipping for everything minus paint and screws/nuts was ~$130. Hope this helps... Edited January 29, 2005 by Eric86GT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric86GT 0 Posted January 29, 2005 Report Share Posted January 29, 2005 Almost forgot, to use the G2 hammer in the .308 with a nut directly underneath the hammer holding the trigger guard in place, the hammer must be clearanced to fit. There is a raised part that looks like the lobe on a camshaft that must be ground down or it'll hit the crossmember. The screw for the trigger guard must be cut flush with the nut or it'll hit the hammer. Even then the hammer was hitting the nut and not allowing it to go all the way down. The G2 hammer has a raised portion on the bottom of the hammer that I ground down as well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FiveLiterEater96 0 Posted January 29, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2005 Ill mail it to you and you can do it Eric. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric86GT 0 Posted January 29, 2005 Report Share Posted January 29, 2005 Haha it's not that bad once you get started. I just wish I didn't have to drive all the way to my parents' house (2 hours away) to do the work. No tools here in my apt. and the neighbors probably wouldn't be too keen on pounding and the sound of power tools. I wanted to get it done so bad I drove home in that storm last Saturday. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FiveLiterEater96 0 Posted January 29, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2005 Im new to the whole gunsmithing thing. I think I might have to pass on this one. It looks a little more difficult than anything I feel like doing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mp2go1 0 Posted January 29, 2005 Report Share Posted January 29, 2005 just do it man. its not that hard. if you have a dremel, drill(w/cobalt bits), hammer, screwdrivers, krylon bbq paint, and access to a pop rivet gun(preferred but not necessary) you will be good to go. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric86GT 0 Posted January 29, 2005 Report Share Posted January 29, 2005 Once you get that trigger plate off, you're home free. Everything else is cake after that. I spent a lot of time with the trigger guard because I wanted it to look perfect (well as perfect as I could get it). Another tool (that I think is necessary) for the conversion is a vise. I padded mine with an old towel and did no damage to the receiver. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
verdejt 0 Posted January 29, 2005 Report Share Posted January 29, 2005 Eric86GT, Did you need to install the bullet guide that is mentioned in the article you used? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RooK 0 Posted January 29, 2005 Report Share Posted January 29, 2005 Be aware, the guide Eric posted is for the 7.62/.223/shotgun versions. The .308 differs in several aspects. - There is no trigger pins/holes in the rear of the receiver. The .308 utilizes a different trigger method and actually simplifies that operation. Simply removing the stock FCG and reinstalling a normal is all you have to do. - The FCG retaining method on the .308 can be reused without much hassle at all. - The bottom trigger plate is held on with 2 spot welds and 2 rivets instead of just 3 rivets. This both simplifies and complicates because you have one less rivet to remove but have to drill or dremel the spot welds. - The center support in the action is moved rearward which means the new hammer needs to be grounded a bit. No bid deal really. - A new disconnector spring needs to be acquired or you utilize the old one, but it requires modifiying the trigger/disconnector. Your choice. - The receiver needs to be drilled just behind the trigger hole for the triggerguard and reattached with a screw or some other method. I prebent my trigger guard, flipped it backwards, trimmed off the old stock mount and attached it. The front doesn't really need to be attached with a screw if the rear is. It will hold up to anything short ot carrying the rifle by the triggerguard. Info & Pics: http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=1903 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric86GT 0 Posted January 29, 2005 Report Share Posted January 29, 2005 (edited) Eric86GT, Did you need to install the bullet guide that is mentioned in the article you used? Sorry I didn't clarify that the tutorial has some differences from the .308 Saigas. You do not need a bullet guide in the .308. Rook, after reading the link you posted, I see you have/had the same problem I do. My safety doesn't work either. I noticed it had been ground down to fit with the original .308 FCG. I compared the safety with the one from my 7.62x39 and you can clearly see the difference. Looks like I'll be buying a new selector lever. Edited January 29, 2005 by Eric86GT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RooK 0 Posted January 29, 2005 Report Share Posted January 29, 2005 I JB Welded mine. It's solid and shows no signs of falling apart, works like it did in stock form no problem. I'll keep it that way until I opt for a dust cover/thumb saftey combo. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric86GT 0 Posted January 29, 2005 Report Share Posted January 29, 2005 (edited) I'll try JB Weld on mine then and see how it works. Edited January 29, 2005 by Eric86GT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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