Phoenix Maximus 1 Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 I have the clip and the phantom from DPH and am looking at ways to put a bayonet on.... no clue. would prefer to not ditch those nor would I like to get a gunsmith to put on a new FSB. Also, have seen the clamp on lugs on CTD, would those work and what would I need to do?? Please help, trying to learn everything but I'm a bit stumped Quote Link to post Share on other sites
imarangemaster 315 Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 I had a 223 Saiga that I put an M16 FH on, and was going to put an M16 post ban clamp on bayonet lug on it. It would work, but traded into a 7.62 Saiga instead. Now I have an AMD65 brake and a KBAR, as AMD65 brakes don't take bayos! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phoenix Maximus 1 Posted May 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 I hoping to just add the clamp on lug but I'm really not sure about the bayo fitting on the phantom hider or what the deal is.... like I said, I'm lost. ideally would go the whole nine yards but after all the other crap if I can't get by with an easy solution I'll just go without a bayonet Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SOPMOD 254 Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 I have the clip and the phantom from DPH and am looking at ways to put a bayonet on.... no clue. would prefer to not ditch those nor would I like to get a gunsmith to put on a new FSB. Also, have seen the clamp on lugs on CTD, would those work and what would I need to do?? Please help, trying to learn everything but I'm a bit stumped I had to make my own Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phoenix Maximus 1 Posted May 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 nice work! Way WAY more effort than I'm putting in, but good job! how'd it attach to the end of the gun? That's my main problem, I'll use the clamp on lug but the what does the ring on the bayonet hook to? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phoenix Maximus 1 Posted May 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 AR-15 heavy barrel Bayonet Adaptor. AR-15 Bayonet. this is what I'm looking at, few people used it in the 308 section. think the bayonet hole will slide over the phantom brake but I have a longer barrel, if I mount the adaptor up against the gas block the knife won't stick out past the brake.... does it have to be up against it, if it's out further does it need welded or something?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gothchick 0 Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 (edited) I had to weld my lug on... The clamp-on lugs are nice, but won't fit a Saiga 16" barrel with an M7 bayonet. Edited May 5, 2009 by gothchick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SOPMOD 254 Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 The clamping force should be adequate to keep the adapter from backing up the barrel.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wlnt 2 Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 I thought about doing all of the above (except for the innovative remodel on the adapter). The problem is when all is said and done you still end up with an M7 bayonet which is not an AK Bayonet. Why not go ahead and bite the bullet and have your Saiga FSB taken off by a gunsmith (if you don't feel comfortable in doing it). Then you can either add the Bulgarian FSB or thread your barrel to add the right FSB for an AK-74. When you are done you can put the correct bayonet on your rifle. I know it is expensive, but if you are going for it, why not do it a little a time. Here is mine after about a year of saving and getting work done. louielouie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phoenix Maximus 1 Posted May 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 The clamping force should be adequate to keep the adapter from backing up the barrel.. could I solder it maybe?? not really wanting to weld it on.... goth- I have the longer barrell, that's actually my problem, the lug with be too far from the gas block Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phoenix Maximus 1 Posted May 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 (edited) I thought about doing all of the above (except for the innovative remodel on the adapter). The problem is when all is said and done you still end up with an M7 bayonet which is not an AK Bayonet. Why not go ahead and bite the bullet and have your Saiga FSB taken off by a gunsmith (if you don't feel comfortable in doing it). Then you can either add the Bulgarian FSB or thread your barrel to add the right FSB for an AK-74. When you are done you can put the correct bayonet on your rifle. I know it is expensive, but if you are going for it, why not do it a little a time. Here is mine after about a year of saving and getting work done. louielouie honestly, it's not worth the money or the effort to me... if I ever actually need a bayonet I'll pull out my sidearm or a knife. I'd like one if I can do it pretty cheaply. bought 6 guns and hundreds of $$ worth of hardware and attachments, not to mention parts for the conversion and over $1000 for ammo.... not wanting to figure out a new FSB, really don't want to pay a gunsmith, just bought the clip and brake from DPH and REALLY don't want more wasted parts sitting around, not to mention I like the Phantom more than the 74..... and who cares if it's accurate?? it's a weapon/tool, long as it looks badass and can kill people/zombies I'm happy! the stock I just ordered is basically the design of the stock on the M4 carbine.... don't care! not to mention I have no patience and am not going to slowly buy pieces. I want this gun to be sweet and done so I can move on to getting a new gun or something else I need Edited May 5, 2009 by Phoenix Maximus Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phoenix Maximus 1 Posted May 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2009 here's I guess my main question.... if I buy the clamp, can I solder it once clamped so it'll never move? if so, what should I use to do so? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wlnt 2 Posted May 7, 2009 Report Share Posted May 7, 2009 (edited) here's I guess my main question.... if I buy the clamp, can I solder it once clamped so it'll never move? if so, what should I use to do so? Phoenix Maximus, I think I came across, as saying my way was the only way on the bayonet. I apologize because you are free to do whatever you want and or like. Back to your problem right now. You need to have the two points for the bayonet to connect to your rifle. When you are holding the bayonet in your hand you are holding the pommel. The part of the bayonet that makes the t is called the crossguard. It has a very large O on one end that is the muzzle ring. The muzzle ring must fit around the end of the barrel to give you strength and alignment for the bayonet. As the muzzle slides through the muzzle ring the end of the pommel is making connection with the bayonet clamp. Phoenix, I think this is the answer you want. Are you going to have the other half of the double split ring collar around the barrel and tightened to the clamp? If you do that then the clamp cannot move backward because the barrel is tapered. Once you tighten it, it will not move backwards more than a few thousandths. I am assuming you worked out the problem of the muzzle ring and how it will attach to the muzzle or hider. louielouie Edited May 7, 2009 by louielouie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phoenix Maximus 1 Posted May 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2009 here's I guess my main question.... if I buy the clamp, can I solder it once clamped so it'll never move? if so, what should I use to do so? Phoenix Maximus, I think I came across, as saying my way was the only way on the bayonet. I apologize because you are free to do whatever you want and or like. Back to your problem right now. You need to have the two points for the bayonet to connect to your rifle. When you are holding the bayonet in your hand you are holding the pommel. The part of the bayonet that makes the t is called the crossguard. It has a very large O on one end that is the muzzle ring. The muzzle ring must fit around the end of the barrel to give you strength and alignment for the bayonet. As the muzzle slides through the muzzle ring the end of the pommel is making connection with the bayonet clamp. Are you going to have the other half of the double split ring collar around the barrel and tightened to the clamp? If you do that then the clamp cannot move backward because the barrel is tapered. Once you tighten it, it will not move backwards more than a few thousandths. Have you worked out the problem of the muzzle ring and how it will attach to the muzzle? louielouie no apology needed, I get what you're saying. honestly if the wife wouldn't blow up I'd probably pay to do it right and shorten the barrel, but the very notion of a bayonet has her upset.... I think the muzzle ring will slide over the brake I have on it, which is also tapered back so at some point it should come to rest. honestly I'm pretty sure but far from positive. also thought I could maybe unscrew the brake and pin the ring behind it as a last resort.... found a place selling the 74 brakes with different threading, one should work on my thread clip, but I'm worried it would postion it perfectly under the FSB, which is a no go since mine doesn't have a lug, thus the clamp on... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phoenix Maximus 1 Posted May 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 bought the clamp on lug, works great! bought the Smith and Wesson Spec Ops bayonet (SW3B) and it's SWEET with a great sheath! and the Phantom brake from DPH is the perfect shape, bayo ring slides back a bit further than sitting at the end of the 74 but still hits at a nice spot. anyone wanting to have a bayonet and isn't up for switching FSB's should consider this, will post pictures later (damn Canon battery needs replaced) thanks to all that helped, I'm totally stoked about the way it's shaped up! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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