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Recoil Buffer for Tapco collapsible stock


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I love my Saiga .308!! Especially due to my extensive mods! The list is extensive, so I will save you the reading with a thumbnail below.

 

I had an argument about ammo sizes the other day. 5.52x45 v 7.62x39 v 7.62x51 After Penetration, cost, and weight were discussed, the argument shifted to recoil/rate of fire on semi automatic. Less recoil equals a higher rate of fire, and improved accuracy. That got me thinking that my double tap for the .308 Saiga is much slower than with my .223 M4. Something needs to be done, so that when all the talking ceases, I can bring results to the range. So the question is: Spring buffer or Hydraulic buffer. I do own a Drimel, but I not a gunsmith in the least. I need a recoil buffer that is more or less drop in. Tapco collapsible stock.

 

Anyone have experience or suggestions? I have scanned some older threads on this subject and reviewed the links, but didnt find alot of pertinent information. YOUR help is appreciated!

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Unfortunely, as a stock set up, the only option you have right now is a rubber/plastic buffer that has been known to cause functioning problems. It is basically a rubber pad about 1/8-1/4" thick that fits between the recoil spring rod and the recoil spring. It is cheap and easy, so you may want to play with it and see how it affects your gun.

 

But if you are looking into more serious options, take a look at the TASK conversion that are done on M-11/9 submachine guns. Basically, an AR buffer & tube are added to absorb the recoil of the gun. You may be able to rig something up using an ACE CAR stock adaptor. It will require welding, drilling, etc. You can use the FAL bolt and recoil spring as a model. Then you can run it to the CAR stock with a heavy or hydralic AR buffer. All of which will require extensive reworking of the gun.

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Oh, I know, I read the whole thing... but I didnt see where there was a definitive spring or hydraulic advisement.

 

You didn't really look at it too hard. This link:

http://www.israeli-w...t_stocks/p9.htm shows a complete recoil reducing stock, buffer tube and rear adjustable piece as well.

 

I made one for mine, with $2.50 worth of material. Works great. You could shoot it all day long, and doesn't feel like the .308 Winchester anymore.

 

Another link, here in the U.S. http://www.makosecur...gory_Code=_stks

 

Here is one from Sportsman's Guide: http://www.sportsman...07&kwtid=307145

 

I believe these are a bit more refined than mine. It buffers the whole of the stock on any setting. Mine you have to do some customizing of the hole you index to for your length of reach.

 

Yellowcarbon, the OP is not talking about the buffers that folks buy and put inside near the rear trunnion. He is talking strictly about a complete stock recoil reducing system. And your idea, though it could be done, is way too much involved for my blood or pocket book. Kind of over kill when you can simply buy a pre made butt stock that has the buffer recoil spring already integrated.

 

I agree with Rhodes1968 !! There is a HUGE difference between the .223 (5.56 x 45 NATO), and the Winchester .308 aka 7.62 X 51 NATO. You only need to hit once, there is no need for double taps. EVEN on recoil reducing stock, thre is still the physics of muzzle climb, and it is simply not a weapon for autmatic fire, hence fast semi auto shots. It is a weapon of serious knock down power, suitable for deer, bear, and even elk and moose with the right loads. .308 Winchester was an improvement over the 30-06 in that you can now have nearly all the power, but in a shorter bullet. This is due in part ot the various powders available now and their energy output.

Edited by Darth AkSarBen
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