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Darth AkSarBen

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About Darth AkSarBen

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/07/1953

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    Fennville, Michigan
  • Interests
    I grew up in NW Nebraska on a ranch, and enjoyed shooting at an early age. Photography was also one of my great interests. There are many things that interest me, that's the problem. Science, technology, history, weaponology, forensics, chemistry, anything that is different is exciting to me.
  1. I just realized that the gal -Shooter- 's avatar is holding a carbine.
  2. I have a Sig 522 and it's OUTSTANDING !! Shoots any ammo, even Wal-Mart bulk cheap stuff. Accurate, non-jamming ....EVER. You can put Swiss rails on the side and bottom and it is the spitting image of a Sig Sauer 556. Side folds and you can shoot from that position as well. Removable flash hider and the barrel is ALL steel , not some barrel insert. Made by Sig Sauer and not some other company. Lifetime warranty. Pricy, but magazines are plentiful everywhere. Any AR-15 22LR magzine that fits the AR-15 rifles works in this. Defenitely a cool carbine. I had a Rugerr 10/22 and the first one was pretty flawless for feeding but the last one I bought (and sold) had issues in feedingi. Don't know if it was because it was stainless or what. On the Ruger only the barrel was Stainless, every thing else was cast aluminum.
  3. True. I would always clean it after shooting, but you have to keep in mind that cleaning does not entail stainless steel bore brushes, but just swabbing out the carbon reside with good old Hoppe's #9.
  4. Yes, hands down. Russian metal is still tough, and they have great rivets!!
  5. My .308 at 100 yards at a Pizz Hut box. At 100 yards testing out a hand load.... Shoots very well. My Sagia .223 that I have does just as good.
  6. That safety probem is common. It is because you changed the Fire Control Group. The safety that came with the gun in it's original has been altered to accomodate that funny long trigger. In other words, they shortened the tab that comed down to hold your tirgger from releasing the hammer. I just used silver solder and put a good bead on it and filed it down so that it would fit nicely. It has no stress or wear points, other than it stops the upward movement of the trigger when you have the safety in position. Read about it in the .308 forum as a stick marked "Safety Problem" here: http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=11427 If you're good welding you can put a bronze bead across the bar that meets the trigger group as well.
  7. Wear ear protectors! I use them even when shooting the .22 pistol.
  8. That metal device on the reoil spring assembly is not a buffer it's a limiter. It is also called that in the manual. It's purpose is not to buffer anything, but to limit the amount of travel that the bolt carrier will go to the rear. Without it, the bolt carrier can take the bolt back far enough to literally pop up and out of it's guide rails. There is a very small slot on the rails that allows the bolt to come up and out for dissasembly. Putting in any buffer in this area would not be wise. Cheaper than Dirt has a recoil reducing complete assembled butt stock that is pretty nice. Here is a direct link to what it looks like and costs. http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/AKS161-6.html
  9. Just bringing this up because of Ben Vamp's post #29 above. I know it's not set up as a full auto selector, but then again neither was that 3rd hole on the Saiga receivers that did not have the internals to make it shoot full auto.
  10. This is kind of bringing up an old topic, but I just stumbled across this at Gunbrokers. The item listed is an AR lower receiver with the 3 position fire control switch. Wouldn't this be kind of an "intent" sort of rifle, even if you built it to the semi-auto status? link of the picture and details of the part in question: http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=150573213
  11. You really need to put it forward where it belongs. it's not necessary to use a double hook trigger. If you do, it is a lot more difficult to get the adjustment just right so that there is even pressure on both sides of the hammer, or else one side is simply the sear let-off. If you do put in a double hook, the receiver needs another notch in it to accomodate the other "hook". This can be done rather easily with a Dremel.
  12. There was a 7.62 x 51 rifle made in AK-47 that was made in Yugoslavia. http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=138211253 Was it ever used by military?
  13. Might look here: http://www.midwayusa.com/browse/BrowseProducts.aspx?pageNum=1&tabId=3&categoryId=9331&categoryString=653***690*** .260 will never be competitive with .308 as far as factory ammo is concerned. Not a lot of it made. Hornady recently came out with the 6.5 Creedmoor, a more sharper shouldered .260 in their premium ammunition. It is close to the .260 and also DPMS has a upper and probably just a barrel in this caliber as well.
  14. Thank you for the reply and for your service!! Since it's an AR-10T you could also get the upper for the .260 Remington and fire that as well. .260 Remington has the advantages of smaller bullet (6.5mm) but simply a necked down .308 case. Look up the ballistics between the .308 and the .260 Remington. Try this site: http://www.remington...ion/Ballistics/ Pick .260 Remington and then .308 Winchester. If you look at the trajectorys, speed (fps) and ft/lb of energy, it does not take the 6.5 very long to surpass the .308 Winchester in those areas. When the bullet hits, it actually penetrates better because of the long dimensions of the 6.5 bullet. This link: http://www.remington.com/Products/Ammunition/Ballistics/comparative_ballistics_results.aspx?data=PRA260RA*R308W1 (you'll have to copy and paste link) compares the 120 gr .260 Remington bullet to a 150 gr .308 Winchester bullet. At muzzle the .308 is better and at 100 yards it is only slightly better, but at 200 yards and beyond, the .260 bullet has more retained ft/lb of energy. Example: at 400 yards, the .260 (6.5mm) has 1340 fl/lb of energy compared to the .308 Winchester (7.62) of 1048 ft/lb of energy left. 500 yards is even more dramatic. With your AR-10, the bolt and carrier would be the same, as the .260 has the same size brass as .308 except for the smaller neck size/bullet. So I would bet real money that you would not even have to change magazines to shoot the .260 Remington, just change out the barrel. I bought some .260 Remington bullets (a few) and they load and chamber fine in my .308 Savage. You just don't want to shoot them in the .308 as they are not the right size (undresized bullet) but probably would not be dangerous, but you would expand the .260 brass to .308 brass in doing so and the bullet would be horribly inaccurate. I wonder why they never made a .260 (6.5mm) / .308 sabbot? That would let you handload with the .264" diameter bullet and use it in your .308" diameter barrel.
  15. I stumbled across this read, and would share it with all of you. The page goes into a lot of detail about early Assault Rifle development, and it's advancements, successes and failures through history, with an ending on the future of some of the cartridges. Of particular interest may be the development of the 7.62 x 39 and it's beginnings, and the rifle development. I found it a very interesting read, and just wanted to pass it on to anyone interested in some of the back scene ballistics and developments in military rounds. The page has some of the most exotic ammunition rounds I have ever witnessed, and the collector/writer has a very interesting background and collection of ammunition that you don't often see or even hear about. The link to the Assault Rifles And Their Ammunitions And Tony's home page is here: http://www.quarry.nildram.co.uk/
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