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Need help with Saiga


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:smoke: Here's the deal my friend. THERE IS AN CLOSED POSTION FOR MAGNUM/HEAVY LOADS AND A OPEN FOR LIGHT/TRAP LOADS.

SO TO FIND OUT WHAT THE NUMBERS MEAN ON YOUR PARTICULAR FIREARM FULLY UNSCREW YOUR GAS REGULATOR FROM OUT OF YOUR GAS BLOCK BY PRESSING IN THE DETENT AND UNWINDING IT COUNTER-CLOCKWISE( LEFTY-LOOSEY, RIGHTY-TIGHTY)! You heared me right, NOW do it! LOOk at it and tell me were YOU SEE the cylinder shaped internal portion of the regulator looks like it is cut back. WHERE THE ONE OR TWO IS IN ALIGNMENT TO THIS SWEPT IN PORTION OF THE INTERNAL OF THE GAS REGULATOR DETERMINES YOUR LIGHT LOAD SETTING. tHATS THE OPEN SETTING, GOT IT!!!!

If you see that the two is on the same side of the gas regulator as this cut-back in/ swept-in portion of the regulator then you know that the two is your light load setting.

Maybe it's the one on yours' I don't know?

Why this reasoning, because that cut-in portion of the cylinder shaped regulator is to allow for more gas to enter into the gas block from the port in the barrel to operate and move your gas piston rearward so to function the semi-auto cycling of the firearm when firing loads with less gas forces. When the regulator is turned to where the rounded portion of the cylinder body shaped gas regulator is down and against the gas port tight against the barrel letting less volume of gases in the gas block then it minummizes the flow of gas into the gas block and thus limiting a high flow of gases into the gas tube. when firing magnum/heavy loads.

IF YOU HAVE THE REGULATOR IN THE MORE OPEN POSITON WHEN FIRING HEAVY LOADS it will increase the volume of gases thrusting up through the gas block which would increase the speed of the piston guide rod in the rearward motion creating a stronger than normal rearward recoil, very noticeable and potential harmful to the bolt carrier and rear trunnion.

Also realize that when re-installing the gas regulator back into the gas block you need to thread it all the way back down to snug and then back out one click at a time depending which setting you are using, OPEN(light loads) or CLOSED(heavy- loads) to custom set your gas regulation to your particular firearm and ammo you are using.

OPEN=LIGHT LOADS

 

CLOSED=MAGNUM LOADS

 

PS. You may, when trying to shoot light loads have to click it out several clicks from snug on the open setting to insure constant and flawless operation with 20ga. 7/8oz. loads.

 

ROCK47 :angel:

Edited by rock47
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:eek: Yeah, You Heared ME! Unscrew that Gas regulator. Depress the detent with the supplied tool found in the cleaning kit or a flat screw driver and un-screw it all the way out. " TRICK IS TO REMOVE YOUR HANDGAURDS FIRST" :eek:

DON'T BE AFRAID! IT WON'T HURT! HOW ELSE ARE YOU GOING TO CLEAN IT AND MAINTAIN IT! IT DOES BUILD UP WITH FOULING AND PERIODICALLY NEEDS CLEANING, THERE IS ALSO A FLOATING PISTON BETWEEN THE GAS PLUG AND THE GAS PISTOON THAT NEEDS MAINTNENCE CLEANING AS WELL!

NOW!! Don't be a wuss about it,MAN-UP! and DO IT! :smoke:

 

IT'S THE ANSWER TO YOUR DILEMA, PLUS YOU WILL LEARN NOW HOW TO PROPERLY DISESEMBLE YOUR WEAPON AND ACTAULY CLEAN IT. :up:

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FLE96...Yup , like rock says , just take the thing all the way out...dont worry , mine was tight the first few times too , but it will loosen up after a while , just be careful not to damage the threads of the plug while your trying to press in that little button (shouldnt be a problem , just make sure you press the button straight in an dont slip off , i use the threaded end of one of the tools that comes in the tool kit , but ive heard of guys using chopsticks or pencils , )you dont necessarily have to remove the handguard unless you really want to , my handguard actually interfered with removing the plug because the plug rubbed against it on the way out , a small file worked just fine to remove a little material from the handguard so it cleared without having to take the handguard off ....there is also a small 'oreo cookie' shaped piece that sits inside the gas tube that will come out when you remove the plug , if you cycle the action with the plug out it will actually pop right out...it doesnt matter which way it goes in as long as its there when you put it back together...mechanically , these are pretty fool-proof , and not too complicated , it would actually be kinda hard to screw one up unless you tried to , or forgot to put all (both) of the parts back in...you will want to get used to taking the plug out because ( like Rock said ) you will want to clean the gas chamber after firing it too....its really no biggie , like I said , mine was a bit tight when i first got it too , youll get used to it .. the plug will loosen up a bit after its been in and out a few times and a little lube on the threads wont hurt anything either ..if you have any trouble , we will be here to lend a hand...once you see whats inside there you will understand how the thing works a little better and it will make sense , just look inside the gas tube and you will see the port into the barrel , and you will see that the plug is just an on/off valve...low power rounds require a little extra pressure to cycle the action , start off firing a less powerfull load ( a 2 3/4 in.) , if you have it set wrong the worst you will do is have it not cycle , and have to manually cycle the action....if your still a little nervous about the settings , have Makc send ya one of those 'BlackJack Recoil Buffers'...they work really well to reduce recoil , and if you happen to fire a 3in. round with the plug set wrong , it will minimise the possible damage to the action and receiver from the heavy recoil...oh yea , lol , you are not the first to mention that the manual is actually wrong....dont feel bad...

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:smoke: Unthreading the gas plug is childs play. All you need to do is press the detent in, (trick with the tip of the tool or screw driver you are using to unscrew the plu with), and use your tool or flat screw driver inserted in a slot on the gas plug to turn it. ONLY after maybe two-three turns you no longer need to manually press in the detent. Just keep un-winding the plu with the tool or flat nose screw driver. :lolol:

 

EASY AS PEAS!! :super:

Edited by rock47
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