A few last questions before converting...

[jbanzai 113]

I've watched the Vimeo vid as well as a few others, and have read countless tutorials. My questions might be specific to the .223, but I doubt it.

 

In some accounts, the heads on the trigger pins are drilled out using a 1/4" drill bit and in others, 3/16" are used. I do realize these are very close, but I don't want to hit the receiver. Which one is correct?

 

Another concern is with the sporter trigger plate. My plan is to grind the rivets off which seems to be the first step for everyone. It's the next step from there that is where the differences come in. I'm not concerned with saving the trigger guard, so I'm looking for the easiest solution.

 

Some say that after you grind the heads off, the plate releases and you gently pry it off.

 

Another account grinds the heads off, the uses a hammer and punch to knock it out. With this option, how do I support the receiver so as not to distort it in anyway. In the Vimeo vid it looks like the guy just whacks it good...unsupported.

 

Finally, alot of people centerpunch the rivets and drill them out. I'm not opposed to this idea, but I don't have a center punch and it seems this is the option for people trying to save the trigger guard...which I'm not.

 

Help!!! Suggestions!!!

Thanks in advance for anyone willing to advise.

[Mullet Man 2,114]

Cut the trigger guard off if you dont plan on saving it, it makes getting to the rivets a whole lot easier.

I would (and do) use a 3/16" bit on the sporter pins. Drill just enuf to where you see the flare begin to spin around with the drill bit. At that point, you can knock them out.

You will most like end up using a combination of the things you mentioned about getting the plate off. Prying, punching, grinding, twisting are all acceptable and common methods. I see no reason to try and drill them out. Grind them flush with the receiver/plate, work the trigger plate off somehow, and punch the rivets out. When the rivets are flush with the receiver, they punch out easily.

Edited October 4, 2011 by Mullet Man

[Morphine 0]

i just did mine yesterday, have no "gunsmith" experience at all took about 4 hours for the trigger mod, stock, bullet guide and mag release mod to fit AK mags. I used a 3/16 bit, my hole was off a little bit so i used a cold chisel and rubber mallet to release the remaining bit of metal without damaging the receiver, it is worth the investment to get a center punch, especially if you are going to do the bullet guide mod also, any scratches or areas that need to be painted, use some matte black bbq grill paint and slightly buff it with a cheesecloth or rag until it blends, i had a great time doing the mod and am thinking about buying another gun to mod it a little different. good luck and enjoy.

[ben4345 123]

3/16 bit

I just used a dremel the rivets from the bottom, just pay attention how far you go. You don't want to dremel the receiver, the one nearest to the butt stock was the hardest (still was easy enough), I couldn't get mine to pop out with a pin punch.

[jbanzai 113]

I use the 3/16 bit and dremeled the rivets. I had no real issues, and everything looks great! I'm looking forward to my next one.

 

I can't remember which conversion vid it was, but there was one where the receiver was drilled into and another where they ground the rivet stumps flush with the receiver by going over it AND the receiver too. In both cases the gun was fine, and you couldn't even tell after it was refinished. I think you'd have to be REALLY reckless to do any significant damage to the rifle.