122 vs 124 grain any big difference?

[Agent Lemon 157]

So I noticed that this place where i buy my ammo lists the 124 grain at a slightly smaller price.

 

 

I'm comparing 122 and 124 grain Tulammo here.

 

 

The supposed specs are as follows:

 

 

124 grain- Muzzle Velocity: 2,330 F.P.S. Muzzle Energy: 1,495 ft.-lbs.

 

 

122 grain- Muzzle velocity: 2,396 feet-per-second. Muzzle energy: 1,555 ft.-lbs.

 

 

What kind of difference does this make against soft targets such as deer? What about bricks? Metal? What about accuracy? Would such a seemingly small difference even matter?

 

 

Why is the 124 priced a bit less than the 122?

 

 

Also, the box says that they’re non-corrosive, but I get a tiny bit of rust from the gas/sight blocks where they clamp onto the barrel after shooting. Is it really non-corrosive? I know that the metal beneath the blocks isn't finished, but I believe that it shouldn’t rust even a bit if the ammo isn’t corrosive.

 

 

Answers/ opinions are very much appreciated.

[Shandlanos 1,470]

The only difference is about 1/3500 of a pound (about .13 grams) in bullet weight. The difference in price is probably due to what the importer, and every entity who subsequently purchased and resold it down through the entire supply chain paid, for that batch of ammo, and may or may not have any real relation to manufacturing or shipping costs.

 

The rust is probably not due to a corrosive compound in the primer. When you fire an AK, those areas see a lot of heat - high heat has a nasty habit of burning off oil. Unoiled, unfinished surfaces on firearms have a bad habit of rusting.

[YOT 3,743]

Didn't an oil bottle come with your gun? Oil helps prevent rust.

 

2 gr. is a non-issue in weight, but is one FMJ the other HP? That's about 2 gr. difference in weight, but the bullets will react different upon impact.

[Agent Lemon 157]

Didn't an oil bottle come with your gun? Oil helps prevent rust.

 

2 gr. is a non-issue in weight, but is one FMJ the other HP? That's about 2 gr. difference in weight, but the bullets will react different upon impact.

 

both fmj.

 

but which way is each weight leaning to? which one has more punch/ penetration (no matter how small a difference)?

 

as for the oil-

 

if you have some kind of genius plan to get the oil between the barrel and sight/gas block, do share. i wanna try your oil bottle advice to oil up that unfinished part of the barrel that the blocks are clamped on top of.

 

should i fill up my empty oil bottle, cut the gas/sight blocks off, oil the unfinished metal, then put everything back on?

 

does anybody else get a tiny ring of light rust around the sight/gas block after shooting?

 

 

EDIT: heres some pictures to clarify what I mean.

 

Heres a saiga with gas/sight blocks removed (originally posted by Classy Kalashnikov)

 

http://i.imgur.com/gblVM.jpg

 

See how it has bare metal?

 

I think that mine is getting some light surface rust on that unfinished metal, because I get light rust rings around the following circled areas (the orange has been added to show rust)-

 

http://i.imgur.com/6VBo4.jpg

 

should i be worried? anybody else get this?

Edited January 22, 2012 by Agent Lemon

[YOT 3,743]

Just put some oil on it. It will leach it's way in there.

[Shandlanos 1,470]

If you have to add orange to show us where the rust is, there isn't enough to worry about.

 

No, I've never had that problem. Yeoldetool is right - oil the general area and it will find its way to the unfinished surfaces. Automatic transmission fluid works well for this.

 

And really, two grains doesn't mean much. I'd be more concerned about the variance in "punch" between any two given rounds, due to poor quality control in Russian ammo. I guarantee there will be a substantial spread in velocity if you meter an entire box of the same stuff. The difference in bullet weight is noise level.