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I made a small mistake that means large amounts of work. Is there any harm in doing some welding on my reciever? I would like to weld some holes closed and re drill them. I know heat can be an issue, but if only small amounts are welded at a time, is it an issue?

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Go slow, and use mild steel wire or rod. Most welding wire or rod is harder than a wedding dick! Back the receiver with a copper penny or carbon. Use GOOD drill bits. No Harbor Freight crap.

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Er70S is the correct filler for carbon steel. Don't use carbon steel for backing unless you just want the backing plate to be a permanate part of your gun. Use copper or brass as carbon steel won't bond to either of these alloy. A penny will work..but they can be tricky to hold in place a good set of clamping pliers is your freind. Be certain to clean all the paint away from the area to be welded. Burning paint will contaminate your weld and cause porocity and weaken as well as make it unsuitable for coating,as well as looking just ugly.It's also helpful to clean the paint from the area that you intened to attach your grounding clamp. Besure to clamp you ground to your receiver some place like the rear trunion, you don't want arc marks on your rails or other machine surfaces. Strike your arc on your backing plate and let the filler metal puddle touch your receiver don't take the arc to the receiver or you'll spend forever trying to blend out undercut. If you don't know what I'm talking about, then you might want to get this sub-ed out.

Edited by poolingmyignorance
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G O B is talking about carbon like in a motor brush, not steel.

Need to use an old penny, newer ones have a bit of steel in them.

Use a piece of copper tube, bend it flat and use that.

Good advice on where to strick the arc.

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G O B is talking about carbon like in a motor brush, not steel.

Need to use an old penny, newer ones have a bit of steel in them.

Use a piece of copper tube, bend it flat and use that.

Good advice on where to strick the arc.

that would make sense of the carbon..i just didn't want any misunder standings. I've used pennies in the past, but never looked at the date...besieds i've always gots chuncks of CuNi or Cu NI Al laying around.

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i used a piece of 3/4 copper tubing about an inch long. Smashed it flat with a hammer, Worked nicely. Ground the welds smooth and then coated the whole thing in jb weld and sanded smooth. Worked just fine. I was originally worried about the heat effecting the reciever, but the heat was so far away from the hammer axis pin hole, im not worried about it.

 

 

 

Pennies need to be older than 1982 btw. After that the are only copper plated

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might as well ask my question on the tail end of this one, I plan on welding my reciever But I'm gonna be using TIG and planed on using Stainless wire as its what I have. I'v welded mild with stainless before and had no problems but i'v also never welded a reciever before only plan on welding the old rivit holes and the BG. should be fine yea?

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If you can weld a few razor blades end to end you will be fine.nothing.gif

Just kidding, steal wire is not that much, get ya some and you will be fine.

Stainless will work.

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might as well ask my question on the tail end of this one, I plan on welding my reciever But I'm gonna be using TIG and planed on using Stainless wire as its what I have. I'v welded mild with stainless before and had no problems but i'v also never welded a reciever before only plan on welding the old rivit holes and the BG. should be fine yea?

It will work...but...I'd recomend purging your receiver so you don't get "sugar" inside your rivet holes. It'll hold up much longer that way.

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