sncstealth 0 Posted April 24, 2012 Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 i was in the process of putting my new front sight on my 240 untill it got about 3/4ths of the way down not it wont move any more on off or sideways....what now? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
onehappycampster 25 Posted April 24, 2012 Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 can you post a pic? what's your method of installing it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sncstealth 0 Posted April 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 hammer and a block of wood with oil to lube it its soaking in tranny fluid right now Quote Link to post Share on other sites
onehappycampster 25 Posted April 24, 2012 Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 When I installed mine I used a big, heavy blow hammer. I used a brass hammer to take off the old FSB but I didn't want to risk beating up my new $90 part. Of course the stock was removed. I made a little wooden stool at a height low enough so the rear of the receiver could rest on the stool, get a good amount of leverage on it, and then wack the snot out of it. I used RemOil to lube it. That's my cheap, shop-press-less way to do it. Hope this helps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sncstealth 0 Posted April 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 so you say more force Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted April 24, 2012 Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 If you can get it off, lightly polish the barrel and the inside of the FSB with crocus cloth or 600 or higher emery cloth. Heat the FSB in the oven to 250F. If you have a chest freezer put the barrel in there overnight. If not put the muzzle in a cup of crushed ice and alcohol for 20 min. or so. It should then go together easy. 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
onehappycampster 25 Posted April 24, 2012 Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 If you can get it off, lightly polish the barrel and the inside of the FSB with crocus cloth or 600 or higher emery cloth. Heat the FSB in the oven to 250F. If you have a chest freezer put the barrel in there overnight. If not put the muzzle in a cup of crushed ice and alcohol for 20 min. or so. It should then go together easy. That's a great, much more gentle, method. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sncstealth 0 Posted April 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 I'm gonna try and sneek it into work tomorrow so I cause use the press to press it off then I'm gonna go with that method thank-you ill update how it goes Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sncstealth 0 Posted April 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 Do I still oil it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
onehappycampster 25 Posted April 24, 2012 Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 Yes sir. I just removed mine and reinstalled it just to see how well this would work... I had a large wood block. An 8x10 about a foot long. I rest the tang end on that. Then I whacked it a few times with a 6x6. No metal was damaged of course. The finish either. It seated with only three whacks. I noticed in your picture that you had the barrel in the vice. I would remove it. Every time I hold something in the vice like that it simply slips out. I'm afraid to cinch it down as tight as needed. I wouldn't want to damage my barrel. Good luck. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sncstealth 0 Posted April 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 it was just in there to hold it up while i was soaking the oil in Quote Link to post Share on other sites
onehappycampster 25 Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Ok cool. If you're using a surplus FSB the tolerances could be a bit off which could explain why it's so tight. Polishing the barrel like GOB suggested may help you out a lot. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,368 Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Yup polish the journals and use oil or anti-seize when installing. Did my gas block and sight block this way using only a plastic dead blow hammer and some muscle. Also, polishing the journal makes position adjustment easier when preparing to pin. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
onehappycampster 25 Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Sounds like good advice for all of us who don't own a hydrolic press. Yup polish the journals and use oil or anti-seize when installing. Did my gas block and sight block this way using only a plastic dead blow hammer and some muscle. Also, polishing the journal makes position adjustment easier when preparing to pin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,368 Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 I want to stress that you only need to lightly polish the surface.. Do not remove material. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 You don't need much, you are not trying to remove the machine marks on the metal, just the sharp high points. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
onehappycampster 25 Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 I super stress this. I learned when I modernized my wife's SKS, those milling marks really do add up to quite a bit of metal. It makes me wonder, "Are they there on purpose to add 'grip' to the barrel?" You don't need much, you are not trying to remove the machine marks on the metal, just the sharp high points. I want to stress that you only need to lightly polish the surface.. Do not remove material. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 The machine marks are there because the finer the finish, the more time it takes and expensive it becomes. Manufacturing cost is directly related to the time parts take to machine, and... "perfection is the enemy of the good enough" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
onehappycampster 25 Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 The machine marks are there because the finer the finish, the more time it takes and expensive it becomes. Manufacturing cost is directly related to the time parts take to machine, and... "perfection is the enemy of the good enough" Right. Just being facetious. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sncstealth 0 Posted April 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2012 I used the press at my work to press it off straighten it then press it back on my last question is how do I make sure its on straight? Can I shoot it at like 25 yards without the pins in it I haven't drilled it yet Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sncstealth 0 Posted April 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2012 does that look straight Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sncstealth 0 Posted April 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2012 "perfection is the enemy of the good enough" the truth Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RED333 1,025 Posted April 28, 2012 Report Share Posted April 28, 2012 It "looks" straight, you can shoot it. You had to press it on, it should stay on for a few rounds, just keep an eye on it. Make sure it dont walk off. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
onehappycampster 25 Posted April 28, 2012 Report Share Posted April 28, 2012 It "looks" straight, you can shoot it. You had to press it on, it should stay on for a few rounds, just keep an eye on it. Make sure it dont walk off. I'm not sure what kind of muzzle device you have but I would also not install it just to be safe. I would hate for all that diverted gas to blow off your hard work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted April 29, 2012 Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 If you want to shoot it before pinning, use a couple drops of green locktite. This 'wicks' in to assembled parts. Just be careful it can make a mess if you use too much - and do it outside, that stuff STINKS! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sncstealth 0 Posted April 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 I took it to my local indoor range it was dead on I didn't shoot it with the muzzle break I pinned it with roll pins now it just needs to be painted. Thanks guys for the info Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RED333 1,025 Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Pics of the target? Congrats!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,368 Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 FYI an easy way to get the FSB centered is to place a straightedge against the RSB, one that is long enough to reach the FSB. Using a caliper, measure the space between the FSB and the straightedge on one side, then measure at the same location on the opposite side. Adjust FSB position as needed until both sides measure equally. The FSB is now centered. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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