Sdustin 578 Posted November 25, 2012 Report Share Posted November 25, 2012 Well I've decided that I'm going back to a saiga .308. I'm starting this thread as a place holder for my project. My plan is a standard ak grip, ace folder. Later once I buy my YHM phantom silencer. When I get the paper work for that I'm going to pull the barrel and cut it to about 13" and pin on the phantom QD flashhider. That will be "stage two" it will also conist of weld on hk sights. And once funds allow I'm going to mount a trijcon rmr at the rear sight block. I'll mill the sight "ramp" down and weld on a mounting plate. My Question is how hard is it to pull the barrel. I have access to a full shop and mill and lathe and a master machinist. I've seen vides of barrels getting pressed out from a cut up parts kit but how will I pull the barrel from the rifle? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
saiga545 47 Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 Well, as long as you have a 20 ton shop press, it shouldn't be too hard. You press out the bbl pin, then you press the bbl off using a bbl press jig like the one here: http://ak-builder.com/index.php?dispatch=pages.view&page_id=11. God if I had access to a machine shop - I would be like Charlie Bucket in Willy Wonka! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sdustin 578 Posted November 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 Thanks. Yes I'm very Excited about this rifle. Also can anyone point me to some information on how to modify a tapco G2 set to work with the .308 I think I could save a great deal of money there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
saiga545 47 Posted November 29, 2012 Report Share Posted November 29, 2012 Since you have a machine shop, you just need to grind the "nub" off the front of the hammer so that it will clear the cross member. You'll also need to grind the right lug if you want to use the bolt hold open. The thickness of the bolt hold open at the hammer pin is going to be how much material you need to grind off the hammer lug. Here is a link on CSS: http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-TRIGGERS-dsh-TRIGGERS-GUARDS/Categories Or you can spend an extra $15 and get the modified G2 FCG from CSS to save some time. But it's always more fun to DIY Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sdustin 578 Posted November 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2012 Yea I'd prefer to do it my self. And I saw a trigger control group at black thorn products for like 15 bucks. Would the tapco be that much better? And I think I can do the conversion for like 45 bucks plus shipping, if I get the black thorn stuff. I've already got an ace folder but no internal block, but instead of using that first I think I'll buy a plan Jane black plastic fixed stock to see if I'd prefer that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
saiga545 47 Posted November 30, 2012 Report Share Posted November 30, 2012 Wow $15 is a great deal! It looks like a Century Trigger group. I wonder if they fixed the trigger slap issue. If not, it is an easy fix. You just remove the back wing on the disconnector and grind a little material off the bottom where the spring goes in. I've fixed a couple myself. If it has that nub on the front of the hammer like the G2 one, then it will need to be ground down. I was looking at their site and they got some neat stuff! And yeah a plain poly AK stock with Bulgy recoil pad works great and it gives it that sexy comm bloc look. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sdustin 578 Posted December 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 Yea I'm going to get the cheap stuff from them. If it sucks and I can't fix it then I'll get the g2. And I've got an ace stock and folder from a Draco turned rifle project but before I cut the tang off I'll try a regular polymer stock first. Once the tang is gone its not coming back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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