dubya 198 Posted January 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2013 (edited) No, that cleared it up well, thanks! I ordered enough furniture to have two different setups. I ordered : * 1 US made pistol grip (+1) *1 US made trigger set (+3) *1 ACE skeleton butt stock US made (+1) *1 Chaos quad rail US made (+1) *2 Surefire 30 round Saiga mags (+3) A charging handle, plug set, triggerguard, round bullet guide, a Surefire dual mag coupler, an internal receiver block (for the ACE stock). I also painted my factory foregrip FDE/Tan (-1) to use with the K-Var original style NATO length butt stock(ill also paint that stock FDE). That way i have 2 different set ups if i want. I also ordered an original NIB cleaning kit that fits in the NATO butt stock and a front sight tool. I ended up spending about $750 for the rifle, 400 rounds, and all the parts i listed. When my buddy stopped by last night to check my new toy out he decided he needed one and bought the same Saiga rifle in plain sporter import configuration for $950 on GunBroker today! I feel like i got a pretty damn good deal! Am i missing anything that i haven't ordered? Thanks again guys! Cory Edited January 16, 2013 by dubya Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dubya 198 Posted January 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2013 (edited) So as long as I'm using the rifle with the ACE butt stock and Chaos quad rail fore grip im good to use foreign mags, if i'm correct. But if i have the sporter import fore grip and the K-Var classic NATO butt stock on i need to use the Surefire mags, if I'm correct. Right? *Assuming that all my other US parts are installed Edited January 16, 2013 by dubya Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dubya 198 Posted January 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 Well you guys might laugh at me but i think after i finish my first conversion im going to go on a hunt for another sporter Saiga and get one of these Kushnapup (or whatever it is) bullpup deals. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chevyman097 2,579 Posted January 17, 2013 Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 (edited) You should be able to use the factory hand guard with either set up. Put to together the set up on paper if you need to get a visual. or list them out here. Then count the countable foreign parts only. If its 10 or less you are fine. Add a US made pistol grip, stock, trigger, disconnector, and hammer to any saiga sporter will set it up to run foreign mags. or us mags either way. The saiga sporter comes with "countable" parts(that includes the magazine so dont count the magazine twice just pretend the magazine is always on the rifle). You took away the buttstock -1, the trigger -1, disconnetor, -1, and the hammer -1. Now you are at 10 foreign parts and legal. You can add any parts to the rifle now as long as they are only US made. Remember to always refer back to this easy check when in doubt. Just UN check the us made parts on your rifle. And it will show you if you are legal at the bottom.http://gunwiki.net/Gunwiki/BuildSaigaVerifyCompliance Well you guys might laugh at me but i think after i finish my first conversion im going to go on a hunt for another sporter Saiga and get one of these Kushnapup (or whatever it is) bullpup deals. P1000865.jpg Actually, many people here have bullpupped their Saigas. You will find many Bullpup fans here. I personally am not into them, to each his own. Edited January 17, 2013 by Chevyman097 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dubya 198 Posted January 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 (that includes the magazine so dont count the magazine twice just pretend the magazine is always on the rifle) Good tip, that clears it up. I'm not sure if the K-Var original style NATO length butt stock is US made. CSS didn't say weather itvis or not and it seems that you can get US made or imported classic NATO stocks from the K-Var website. I guess ill just have to wait a few days to see. My buddy that just bought a Saiga today bought an external conversion kit for his so he doesn't have to move the trigger group. Kinda ugly if you ask me. The only thing im worried about messing up is moving and installing the trigger. I've done alot of basic gunsmithing on my other guns like polishing parts and bedding and free floating rifles but never done a trigger. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chevyman097 2,579 Posted January 17, 2013 Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 If its the kvar brand its us made. the trigger work is very simple and will help you learn about about the Kalashnikov rifles. Take your time and enjoy yourself. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dubya 198 Posted January 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 Thanks. I think im ready. I found a YouTube channel that has VERY GOOD conversion video's. Not a bit worried now lol, it looks pretty simple. Ill check back in a few days with pics! Thank you all again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
semper299 284 Posted January 17, 2013 Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 Good luck Dubya. It is alot of fun, and when you are done you will think you missed or forgot something because it really is that easy. And like Chevyman mentioned, you will know that part of your rifle very well, and will be able to fix just about anything that goes wrong with it in the future. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dubya 198 Posted January 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 Thanks Semper. I had a guy on my other forum (24hrcampfire) to bring itvto a smith! I couldn't believe it. Ive had this thing apart about 15 times now and it really does look like a pretty simple process. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dubya 198 Posted January 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 Well 6 hours later..... all i have to do is install the new trigger and trigger guard. 5 hours of grinding and cutting with a Dremel because NONE of the parts i bought really worked together. Not sure if ill do the trigger tonight or not. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dubya 198 Posted January 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 Okay its FINALLY a finished product. The only shoddy part is the pistol grip. Its held on by one crappy screw but its tight and wobble free for now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chevyman097 2,579 Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 Looks good so far but what did you do with that pistol grip and trigger guard? Something doesnt look right. What pistol grip is that? and what trigger guard did you use? You can use the factory one if needed. Any how, the pistol grip should butt up to the trigger guard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dubya 198 Posted January 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 Its an Engage PG and rounded TG both from I had to install an internal block for the stock and it really screwed up mounting the PG otherwise everything was gravy. I should have bought thr CSS TG with the grip mount thing already built in but oh well. Its definitely not an Arsenal but it'll do. Im looking for another Saiga to convert with the NATO stock and sporter handguard since i already have both. That or slowly buy AR part's and build one of them. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chevyman097 2,579 Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 If you can take a picture of the internals we might can give you some ideas on fixing the ergonomics of that. Its deff off. Did you have to cut a new pistol grip hole and trigger guard hole for that? Im a bit confused because anything saiga specific should have fit up nice after modding what was needed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dubya 198 Posted January 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 There's plenty of room to cut and move the PG to the correct position but i don't mind the little longer trigger pull. Maybe ill move it if i get bored someday. I know it looks kinda goofy but not nearly as bad as my buddies that has the external stock & PG kit! The one thing i am trying to figure out it why does my finger hit the bolt hold open when i pull the trigger? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dubya 198 Posted January 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 The whole thing may look weird because i think, but im not sure, that my receiver is slightly longer than other Saiga 7.62's. I was looking at a few pics of other rifles and some of the receivers appear shorter. Is this possible? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dubya 198 Posted January 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2013 Okay i got a different PG that has a longer top part that meets the receiver and the long screw (its ALOT more sturdy). I also moved it to the correct position. Looks MUCH better IMO. If you can take a picture of the internals we might can give you some ideas on fixing the ergonomics of that. Its deff off. Did you have to cut a new pistol grip hole and trigger guard hole for that? Im a bit confused because anything saiga specific should have fit up nice after modding what was needed.I did cut a new hole for the PG but didn't have to for the TG. i should have bought the angled trigger guard. Oh well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dubya 198 Posted January 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2013 I also picked up 3 of these Palm mags for $60 locally and they seem pretty well built. Any experience with them? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chevyman097 2,579 Posted January 22, 2013 Report Share Posted January 22, 2013 The Palm mags have had some really good reviews and testing. There is a really good thread on them in the depths of this sub forum. That pistol grip looks way better. I guess it was just that other pistol grip making it look strange. I thought maybe you had cut the whole too far back at first. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dubya 198 Posted January 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2013 Yeah i did a quick Google search on them while i was at the store and they seem good. They're really well built and lock up tight with no play whatsoever in my gun. There's only 1 left there i hope to get it in the morning but im not too sure i want to drag my baby out in the cold (negative 18° tomorrow today was negative 12!) tomorrow morning. They do have 10 or so flat side Bulgarian 40 rounders left and i got 3 of them too. Its hard because they have a limit of 1 per customer per day. I was there on Friday and bought 77 boxes of WPA 124gr hollow point for $5.29/box of 20 but today i went and they have a 5 box limit (i still left with 15 boxes . Anyway, the first grip felt a bit better and had storage but the new one tightens down much better and looks 10X better IMO. Ive got a lead on another Saiga 7.62x39 for $550 and it's unmodified with a dimpled receiver. Dont know if i should get that or the Saiga 12 the LGS has for $629. Any opinion's? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dubya 198 Posted January 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2013 Also, what's the easy way to install a flash hider/brake? And what part's should i get to install one? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dubya 198 Posted January 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 Well i passed on the other sporter Saiga i was planning on buying ($600) and picked up a cheap AR for $700. A NIB Bushmaster C15 ORC. Still like my Saiga more although its much heavier. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
semper299 284 Posted January 23, 2013 Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 Nice job! It looks really good, and I know you must be proud of your new baby. For the muzzle brake, you have a few options. I will list the ones I know.... 1. You can remove the shroud at the end of the Saiga FSB and thread the barrell. This will require you purchase a 14x1 LH Die ($32), a die starter ($7), and a die handle ($15). You can get everything at cncwarrior and I believe dinzag, and there are plenty of youtube videos to show you how to do it. I have never done this, but I believe it is pretty straightforward. Once you thread the barrell, you screw on your muzzle brake with a crush washer against the FSB to time the brake. 2. You can buy a bulgy "74 FSB. You will need to cut off the Saiga FSB and shroud, then press on the Bulgy FSB. This is what I did, and I like it better because you get a bayonette lug and cleaning rod holder thing, as well as a plunger in the FSB to time your brake. Ok, so I only know two options Maybe someone else has another option, but these seem to be the two most popular. And if you got any kind of AR for $700, that is a great buy. Even the saiga at $600 is a good buy in this madhouse. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dubya 198 Posted January 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 Id probably go option 2 but find a FSB without the bayonet lug or rod holder. Will any 7.62 diameter muzzle braje (with correct threads of course) work? Any you suggest? Yeah i had a S&W MP15 OR last winter, never fired it and sold it 3 month's later for what i paid. Tgey really didn't interest me a whole lot,just kind of cool. I still dont have much of a use for an AR but figured i better get one incase some stuoid laws are passed and it was normal price so i couldn't pass. The store i got it from in northern MN had close to 100 AR's i bet and 10+ different brands. No ammo tho! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
semper299 284 Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 I have 2 AR's, and love both of them. I am not an AR sucks kind of AK guy. I just love guns, especially ones I can tinker with. Love the AK platform though as it is much simpler and rugged than the AR platform. Honestly, I would suggest a 74 brake. I would try and stay away from the 74 "style" brakes, but they are not that bad. The real 74 brakes just seem to work better, IMHO. If you do put a 74 brake on, you will need to bore out the middle so a 30 cal bullet can safely pass, although some argue this is not necessary. Any gun shop can bore it out for less than $20. Mine is bored out to .400, and it works just fine for the 7.62 round. If you go with a 74 style brake, I would recommend Dinzag. He has the 74 style brakes that can go on a 7.62. CNC warrior also has some fine brakes. Your options are really limitless, just make sure you get the correct threads. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dubya 198 Posted January 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 So just to make sure, i cut the whole FSB off? From the far left bottom pin all the way to the crown and it should come right off? Is it possible the barrel is threaded under there? And how should i secure a new FSB? Lock tite, jb weld, does it come with new pins and just slips over the barrel? Thank you! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dubya 198 Posted January 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 I got the two pins out easily but even with a rubber mallet it won't budge. Should i heat it up a bit? Or just cut it off with my Dremel? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chevyman097 2,579 Posted January 28, 2013 Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 You can try and cut though the bottom with a dremel. Not really all the way if possible but get close. Then tap it a bit with a chisel to break it on through. add a little penetrating oil if needed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
semper299 284 Posted January 28, 2013 Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 I cut mine on two oppoosite sides, wacked it with a mallet, and it fell to the floor in two pieces. Just be careful and do not cut to deep, If you nick the barrel, it is no big deal, just go slow. It is possible that the barrel is threaded under the shroud, but none of mine have been. As far as getting the new FSB on, friend at work has a press and helped me press the new FSB on. Forgot to mention, none of mine had pins. They were dimpled or pressed on at the factory. So my only option was to cut it off. Took about 10 minutes and was much easier than I thought. On one, I cut a little too deep and went into the barrel just a fraction. The new FSB covered it up, but I put some epoxy in there just to keep out moisture/rust. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dubya 198 Posted January 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 I think I'll try to soak it in WD-40 for a few hours tomorrow and see if that helps. Id like to keep all my original part's but no big deal if i have to cut it. My Dremel has been a lifesaver with this conversion, its one of the best tools to have in the garage for all sorts of thing's around the house. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.