Reaper831 1 Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 Hello, I recently purchased a couple of TWS handguards for my rifles. They look great but come with bare stainless steel gas tubes (I don't like anything bare except skin ). I was thinking about sending the tubes out to get melonited for durability and looks. I e-mailed some companies last week after searching on the web but haven't received any responses yet. I'm guessing my order would be too small for companies that deal with large orders. Does anybody know of any companies that melonite small batches? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LuPiN8oR 333 Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 Black engine enamel. Duplicolor. Make sure it's free of grease and do light coats. Like a fuckin glove! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Beretty 37 Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 Better question...Why would you want it??? If you're in the market for a new finish, I would pick anything over melonite. It rubs offf with Hoppe's #9 or any other ammonia based product. I would much rather parkerizing, duracoating, or any other option before meloniting. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dolomite_supafly 56 Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 Better question...Why would you want it??? If you're in the market for a new finish, I would pick anything over melonite. It rubs offf with Hoppe's #9 or any other ammonia based product. I would much rather parkerizing, duracoating, or any other option before meloniting. That is the first time I have ever heard melonite comes off with ammonia. Melonite is not a coating. It is a surface and subsurface treatment that hardens the metal. I just so happens to discolor the metal during the process. Duracoat is no where near as durable as melonite and even parkerizing is no where near as durable as melonite although parkerizing holds lubircants and protectants better. Dolomite Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Beretty 37 Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 From the S&W forum. "A call back from a S&W CS guy this AM revealed that the Melonite finish on the Governor can be damaged by the trace amount of ammonia in som gun solvents/cleaners - like good old Hoppes #9! Is nothing sacred? I never thought a gun was clean without the stench of Hoppes #9. He did say Hoppes Elite - and regular/synthetic gun oils are okay, too. Wow. Check the label."I based my previous post on the above quote. By saying "discolor the metal" do you mean strip black color away. I also read threads about Hoppes eating away S&W M&P and 642 finishes. 642 thread said some solvents (Hoppes) will cause clear coat of finish to flake off.I've been on the hunt for a new cleaner/solvent. Hoppes Elite is ammonia free but pricey for a small bottle. I picked up a can of Safariland CLP. Used it on my Saiga last night. Seemed to work really well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reaper831 1 Posted March 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 Better question...Why would you want it??? If you're in the market for a new finish, I would pick anything over melonite. It rubs offf with Hoppe's #9 or any other ammonia based product. I would much rather parkerizing, duracoating, or any other option before meloniting. I'm with Dolomite, melonite is not a finish/coating. It's a treatment that penetrates the metal's surface and case hardens the material while giving the surface a nice black color. While it may be possible for some chemicals to strip away the black color from the surface, I doubt they can remove the metal's hardening. I have 3 other rifles, a POF P308, an AR15 with an Adams Arms upper and a Sig 556R, with melonited barrels and other parts and I have yet to see any adverse effects on them from any cleaners or solvents. Thanks for the suggestion Lupin8or but I'm looking for something that will give the tubes better wear resistance as well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Beretty 37 Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 ^^I understand now. I was thinking if the bare metal was exposed it would be susceptible to rust. Always learning something new.^^ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LuPiN8oR 333 Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 Yeah i didn't realize you were turnin it up a notch from factory paint. My apologies. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dolomite_supafly 56 Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 I use regular rattle can paint of some sort to paint most of my guns. I have bought painted guns that looked like crap but once I got the paint off most of them looked great so it definitely protects. Krylon, once baked, is also very durable. It is actually very hard to get off unless you soak it overnight in solvent. I have done mag dumps with Krylon painted gun and they never had the paint burn off. I had a guy suggest using chalkboard paint they sell at Walmart. I bought some and tried it on a whim. I will say that stuff it extremely durable once cured. They must add something to chalkboard paint to make it hold up to chalk. When painting regardless whether it is Krylon, chalkboard paint or something else I normally paint the gun then bake it in an oven at 200 degrees for several hours. The best part about using either is they are easy to touch up and easier to remove than other finishes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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