cfr 4 Posted February 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 (edited) Will do. Edited February 19, 2015 by cfr Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cfr 4 Posted February 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 Calipers state 14.3 MM. :-( Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wagnikov 186 Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 Push the little button on top so it's in thousands of an inch please and thank you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cfr 4 Posted February 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 It doesnt have that feature (mm and inches only) but I believe it's .563 (?). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spacehog 2,218 Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 0.563 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wagnikov 186 Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 In engineering the 0 in front of the . Designates a metric dimension. So standard is .345 or what ever number and metric is 0.86. These numbers purely fictional any resemblance to a real number is purely coincidence. Lol. (Not that anyone wanted to know that) Yes "inch" units would be the most useful. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spacehog 2,218 Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 (edited) It is slightly larger, but I don't believe that .003 it going to cause the issues that you are having. ...and I am not an engineer, I am a science major, and we put zeros in front of everything. Now back to the intended "thread" Edited February 19, 2015 by Spacehog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wagnikov 186 Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 If your new to calipers. And these are digital. You need to fully close with the same pressure you will use to measure with and "zero" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wagnikov 186 Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 We can do the math and get .563 but something is rounded in doing so. If this is an acceptable OD, does the die say "start this side" or something similar. If it is not labeled as such, typically you would cut threads on from the side opposite that reads the size. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wagnikov 186 Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 I have found it helpful to slightly taper the end of the barrel to help the die start. Per Dinzag Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cfr 4 Posted February 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 We can do the math and get .563 but something is rounded in doing so. If this is an acceptable OD, does the die say "start this side" or something similar. If it is not labeled as such, typically you would cut threads on from the side opposite that reads the size. No, it doesn't have anything like that. Bear with my stupid question though -- wouldn't this be like a nut for a screw, in that it doesn't matter which way you place it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spacehog 2,218 Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 Lettering on the die goes towards the muzzle. Die and tat should spin counter clockwise when threading. After looking at your pic again, I suspect that there it something wrong with the die itself. You said it was missing some teeth at the front cutting surface of the die? These are the teeth that are doing the initial cutting of the thread and provide the bite. If they are missing, I suspect that it would be very difficult to keep the die lined up and consistent while cutting. It is not the pressure that you put on the die (although some pressure is needed), it is keeping the die free from side to side motion when turning it in a circle that is important. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cfr 4 Posted February 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 Lettering was towards the muzzle. After a closer inspection, I don't think any of the teeth are damaged as it looks identical on all sides. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wagnikov 186 Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 I have been wrong before. Lol. most of the time there is a more tapered side, and an abrupt side. The tapered side is the starter side. It helps to cut some of the material out of the way that is not needed for the threads. If all checks out. You could simply be rocking the die as you turn and stripping the new threads of. Also it dose take a lot of pressure towards the muzzle until you get two or three threads started. If your barrel is under .570, and you have the correct die in good shape, then it's just that your not pushing hard enough down while smoothly and squarely turning the die handle. This IS very difficult to do without a vice. I have 5 vices at my house. Bu to be honest the one I use for most of my gun projects is a clamp on one I have in my basement. I have heat in my shop but it takes time to warm it up when it's -7. So I end up doing a lot of my work in the basement. If you got calipers you could get a cheap vice from there also. I'll send a pic of mine when I get home. Sometimes I clamp the die in the vice and turn the gun! Lol seems backwards but I'm about whatever works. Keep asking questions, go slow. You get this thing done right. Even if I keep giving bad advice! lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wagnikov 186 Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 This is the vice I got from harbor freight. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spacehog 2,218 Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 CFR, I am at a loss here. It would seem that all is in order with the equipment. If the die rocks whatsoever getting those first threads cut is very difficult. A good vice helps a lot. I recommend that you PM one of the business members here to see if we might be missing something here. I would recommend Shannon at Cobra's Customs, he has helped many here with advice and started the original thread you referenced on the tutorial. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cfr 4 Posted February 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 I'm certainly not above admitting to human error if that's in fact the case. I'll see about a vice to rule that out as the gun moving is certainly a possibility. More questions: If I make a few turns, at what point will I want to unscrew it to see if I'm making threads or just doing more damage to my barrel? I keep unscrewing it to see how things are going. I assume I'm not stripping threads so long as I don't pull it straight off, right? Here is a pic of my die. Wagnikov mentioned one side is usually tapered, but as you see in the pic both side of mine are. I know it's custom to work letter side toward the muzzle, but could any damage be done by trying it letter side up just for kicks? I can't look at this again until the weekend. Of course I'll keep you all posted -- you've certainly earned it!!! Thanks to all! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spacehog 2,218 Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 Once my die starts cutting, I only back it off a quarter turn for every 1/4-1/2 turn of cutting, and this only to break the chips. I don't back off and inspect any threads until I have at least 6-7 threads cut to make sure I don't strip off any early threads. You might consider picking up a different die as well. There were a couple of reviewers of the one you got that experienced the same issue you are. If you will PM me your address, I will send you one that I have used for my rifles, if you will send it back when done. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cfr 4 Posted February 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 Once my die starts cutting, I only back it off a quarter turn for every 1/4-1/2 turn of cutting, and this only to break the chips. I don't back off and inspect any threads until I have at least 6-7 threads cut to make sure I don't strip off any early threads. You might consider picking up a different die as well. There were a couple of reviewers of the one you got that experienced the same issue you are. If you will PM me your address, I will send you one that I have used for my rifles, if you will send it back when done. Hey I really appreciate it SH! However, if this finally goes OK I may do another in a couple weeks. That said I'm just going to purchase one from CNC this weekend. Thanks again! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spacehog 2,218 Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 No problem, and I think you are making a wise decision...with everything you have described, my money is on the die being the problem. Good luck. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cfr 4 Posted February 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 Fingers crossed, thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wagnikov 186 Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 I just finished relocating the fsb on my .308. Gonna order die and tat tonight. Wish me luck too! Lol I may do a real short vid of threading job, I think this one will be a breeze. The muzzle has a long gentle taper on it, so I think it's gonna start real nice. Was laser bore sighing the fsb to get it strait, but it's less than 20yards in the longest part of my house. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spacehog 2,218 Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 I just finished relocating the fsb on my .308. Gonna order die and tat tonight. Wish me luck too! Lol I may do a real short vid of threading job, I think this one will be a breeze. The muzzle has a long gentle taper on it, so I think it's gonna start real nice. Was laser bore sighing the fsb to get it strait, but it's less than 20yards in the longest part of my house. I am sure it is going to come out nice. You do good (and original) work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wagnikov 186 Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 It's only "original" because I don't know what the hell I'm doing!! I "Brian Williams" that "which side of die" I just look for the tapered side. But once we got to talking about it, it seems they read "size" on one side and "start other side" on the other. Lol I hope this adds to your thread, since I'm dragging it a bit off center. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cfr 4 Posted March 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 Returned the POS die, got one from CNC, worked without a hitch. Thanks to all! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spacehog 2,218 Posted March 6, 2015 Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 Awesome. Glad to hear it fixed all your issues and you are GTG. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alfred788 0 Posted August 14, 2015 Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 hey this thread might offer some help www . practicalmachinist . com/vb/gunsmithing/barrel-wall-thickness-pressure-question-228446/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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