Bradley Adjustable

[forsaken352 235]

So, I'm yet again scouring the internet for a decent cheek rest for a fixed AK stock, and I've come across this Bradley. Do you guys see any reason why this would not work for a Kvar Nato length stock?

 

http://www.bradleycheekrest.com/Bradley-Adjustable-Olive-Drab-BA-000-OLIVE-DRAB-04.htm

 

Here's a Youtube video of it:

 

 

Now, Bradley does make an AK specific cheek rest called the Bravo 1 (B1), but I like the idea of this one due to the third strap running across the rear of the rifle, which the B1 is lacking. Just seems more secure. The fact that the adjustable comes in OD green has nothing to do with it.

[gunfun 3,931]

I was interested until I saw the price. You could get a proper cheek weldy stock for that. Or cut the top of your stock off, insert some tubes and metal rods and make it adjustable & classy.

[forsaken352 235]

I was interested until I saw the price. You could get a proper cheek weldy stock for that. Or cut the top of your stock off, insert some tubes and metal rods and make it adjustable & classy.

 

Thing is, I was originally trying to keep it as true Russian, or Russian looking as possible (of course following 922r... ). Granted, that hasn't gone 100% to plan, but I think it still hasn't gone too far off course. Something like a PRS, though, that just screams American. I like the Zentico stock, but $400.00 for it, and requires a lot of receiver surgery. Not really interested in all that at the moment. Cutting the top of the Kvar probably "could" work, but there's 2 problems I have with that. One, the Kvar is hollow, and two, it's got a very narrow comb which isn't the most comfortable thing to rest a cheek on. Right now, I can deal with it because it is more of the "chin weld" we've all grown accustomed to. Either way, I think I'm gonna get a Bradley cheek rest, but the question still stands of whether the adjustable would work or should I go with the one they market to AK's (not directing it to you specifically, GunFun, Just anybody that may know.).

Edited May 1, 2015 by forsaken352

[gunfun 3,931]

Option 2:

1)keep your KVAR stock and cut a slice out of the top of the stock that came with your saiga.

2)The slice is your new cheek rest. Find the height and angle that you like by making some pencil eracer spacers with double stick tape.

3) Get some spray foam and make an ice cream sandwich of the two.

4)After the foam has cured, then carve it back under the gap between the two pieces with a teaspoon.

5)Next get some black urethane caulk, tape it off with masking tape. Caulk the gap, dip a finger in alcohol and run it around the caulk to get a nice smooth factory looking transition.

 

Now you have an AK stock, with a russian cheek riser in matching plastic. Plus you can always take it off and clean off the gook. It will be both solid and light. Bonus is that you can use the foam to fill the stock itself and make it feel less hollow.

 

Looks russian, is custom.

[forsaken352 235]

I've read your most recent post probably 4 or 5 times now. Either I'm stupid or am missing something here. What exactly would make it "solid"? I've used Great Stuff before, if that's the kind of foam you're referring to, but I've got to say, it doesn't seem all that solid by itself when adhered to an object. Also, the pencil erasers. I think I know what you mean, but am not certain of that, either. The way I'm reading it is, use pencil erasers to set the height, spray foam under the "cheek piece" filling the gap, use double sided sticky tape on the sides of the stock, also under the "cheek rest", use a spoon to scrape excess foam, then tape and caulk. If this is the process, wouldn't a good portion of the foam still be exposed (on top of the comb, under the new cheek rest)? Because I don't think you can caulk a gap that large. I don't suppose you've got a picture of something like you've described?

 

 

I was thinking, and I wonder how well it would work if I used your idea of robbing a chunk from the factory stock, and instead of affixing it to the Kvar with any sort of adhesives, if I drilled through and used some bolts instead, the Karsten cheek rests come to mind with this setup. I've considered trying it before using the Karsten (it's just a sheet of folded kydex), but the only place I think it would look right to drill is in the stock "flutes" I guess you could call them, but the issue being the cleaning kit compartment. However, I suppose I could leave the kit out of the rifle, remove the spring, and go to town. Thoughts?

 

Sorry for the ignorance, but I just need a better understanding before diving into anything. Lastly, I just want to add, the reason I was interested in the strap on (insert jokes here) cheek rest, was if I were to ever to want to switch to irons quickly, I wouldn't need to mess with anything more than some velcro. I forgot to mention that originally, so that's my fault, I apologize. However, I'm still interested in the ways  which things can be modified to work. It's just good knowledge to have. I may, yet, cough up the dough to try the Bradley, though. It's not the most compelling thing for me, either, but I believe in the old adage, "You get what you pay for". I also realize it's not the most "Russian" looking thing, but the rifle is already a "mutt". As long as it works, that's the most important thing, not looking "pretty". That was just an added benefit, but we'll pass judgement when it's done.

Edited May 1, 2015 by forsaken352

[forsaken352 235]

Also, think I just found an answer to my original question:

 

 

 

It's a Yugo, and a thicker stock, but it looks like the straps on the cheek rest have more adjustment to them.

[gunfun 3,931]

OK, from that picture, the cheek rest is at a horrible angle. It should be generally parallel to bore axis if you don't like getting smacked in the face.

 

Not ignorant. I guess my explanation wasn't clear enough. Bolting through from the sides would work, but you might have issues with rattlyness.flush fit heads with locknuts on each side of each piece of plastic would be in order.

 

I will try agian.

 

get the whole sucker clean with rubbing alcohol on both pieces.

 

Erasers with double stick tape was just one way of making an easily trim-able spacer to  get your height figured out. You are probably looking for something with a total lift around 5/8". It would be fine even at twice that though. You could use anything small which holds the gap you want. That was just an easy way that could never become a rattler.

 

When you have that where you want it, then spray in an expanding polyurethane, like great stuff. It would probably be smart to pre-mask the stock outside the fill area. Let the foam cure. The large surface area could be pretty strong. People build up car body work this way. The urethane caulk will add a bit of strength too.

 

I was expecting to deliberately over fill the foam so it sticks out of the gap a bit. Then use something non sharp and convex like the tip of a teaspoon to scoop out the foam around the gap. Basically scrape back and forth to wear down the foam this would leave a concave groove around the cheek riser. 

 

Now clean it up again and fix any masking that got messed up. This stuff is pretty much magic. http://www.amazon.com/Sikaflex-Polyurethane-Performance-Elastomeric-Capacity/dp/B00461IMFE  You can fill that gap mostly for cosmetics and a sealer. I'd be shooting for a layer of this about 1/8 -3/16" thick. You can do an optional finishing swipe with your thumb to make a perfect smooth concave shape in the caulk when it is about 1/2 cured. Be sure to wet your thumb with denatured alcohol first. That keeps the caulk from sticking to your hand and making a mess. Probably you will want to re-wet your thumb a couple times. (The point is to make it soother and more uniform, sticking to your fingers is the opposite.) Peel off the masking at about 3/4 cured and set it somewhere you won't be tempted to touch it for about a day.

 

Serves a party of 12. 

[forsaken352 235]

Okay, that makes a bit more sense now, thank you. As far as the picture above, it's at a horrible angle due to a couple of reasons from what I can tell. The stock on the Yugo's seem to have a bit more drop to them (compared to mine that is), and that person has it set up with an intentional tilt for some reason (the front screw is at the bottom hole, and the rear being an additional hole above.) Like I said before, though, I like the idea of finally being able to use the factory stock for something, but I just don't particularly care for how permanent it seems. Yes, it could be removed, but after removing it, I would then, later, need to find a way to reattach it. I know it probably seems silly, what I'm asking, but like I've told others, this is a SHTF/occasional hunting type rifle I've been building. So should the optic become useless for any reason, it's on a RS mount and can be removed quickly to utilize the iron sights, but that may prove to be difficult to line up the iron sights due to a somewhat permanent cheek rest set for scope height. Lastly, I want to show you this picture. It's the AK version that Bradley manufactures:

 

 

Difficult to say for certain, but I think the stock in this picture is a Warsaw length Kvar. The only difference I see between this cheek rest and the adjustable model is this one is a bit shorter (height-wise), and is missing the 3rd strap. So, again, I personally see no reason the adjustable would not work, but I'm not certain. I was hoping to see someone else on here who might've tried either one on their AK, but it does not seem that way. The picture of the Yugo above should give a pretty good idea on the adjustable model, though, taking into consideration the reasons I think it has such an angle. Continuing on, I'm pretty convinced that I would rather go with one of these instead of creating my own. This time. So, last question. If you were to choose between being a Guinea pig for the adjustable model and the one pictured above, price not being a consideration, which would you choose?

Edited May 1, 2015 by forsaken352

[gunfun 3,931]

The lower one looks more appealing, but without some double stick tape or something, I think it will  shift forward and loosen so that it is moving around.

 

If I had to buy one of the above, it would be the B1 with some double sided tape.

 

Also, Good scopes more or less never fail now. I'd rather make my rifle better for 99%+ of the time than compromise all of that for the remote eventuality that the scope fails. Better to take the money you'ld  spend for quick release gadgetry and apply that towards more durable optics if that is your worry.

[Spartacus 1,619]

The lower one looks more appealing, but without some double stick tape or something, I think it will  shift forward and loosen so that it is moving around.

 

If I had to buy one of the above, it would be the B1 with some double sided tape.

 

Also, Good scopes more or less never fail now. I'd rather make my rifle better for 99%+ of the time than compromise all of that for the remote eventuality that the scope fails. Better to take the money you'ld  spend for quick release gadgetry and apply that towards more durable optics if that is your worry.

 

That's the first thing I thought too.... your cheek will tend to drag that one forward.

 

I like the first (expensive) one in the review.

 

What's with the creepy ginger dude blowing kisses at his cat during the review?!  

 

[Dad2142Dad 6,559]

The only non creepy ginger I know is Chile

[gunfun 3,931]

This looks like the ready made solution to what you want:

 

http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/stock-parts/butt-plate-parts/cheek-pieces-amp-palm-swells/scope-eze-prod15487.aspx

 

 

Other similar notions.

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=stick%20on%20cheek%20riser

[gunfun 3,931]

p.s. one idea that could address your other concerns would be a stick on pad attached with industrial velcro. Use the soft side of the velcro on the stock, so if you rip off the riser in a hurry, you are resting your cheek on fuzz.

[forsaken352 235]

 

Also, Good scopes more or less never fail now. I'd rather make my rifle better for 99%+ of the time than compromise all of that for the remote eventuality that the scope fails. Better to take the money you'ld  spend for quick release gadgetry and apply that towards more durable optics if that is your worry.

 

I'm not too worried it is going to fail, but I'm just saying there's always the possibility of something going  wrong, and I'd prefer not having to rip foam apart to get low enough. Here's my setup:

 

 

I do kind of like the velcro idea, though. We'll see. I might actually mix and match. Pick up the B1 AND some velcro. Make the bastard rock solid, but removable.

[forsaken352 235]

Just a little update, I was going to make a cheek rest the way you described, GunFun, but I realized I didn't really have all the materials on hand, so I just went ahead and got the Bradley Adjustable. It does NOT work for an AK stock, so it found a place on my M1A instead (which was the plan if it didn't work). It turned out being a bit too tall for the stock, and if the stock has a sling swivel on the side, like mine, it interferes with the cheek rest.

[gunfun 3,931]

Ouch. There are still the stick on kind like I linked above. You can always velcro one of them. No fancy supplies needed.