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gunfun last won the day on October 13

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About gunfun

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    Apparently, guy who has made way too many posts.

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  1. Yeah. That's great. I wish I was there with you. Have an awesome hunt.
  2. gunfun

    A trick for reloading buckshot

    Thanks. I still want some kind of auto counter or dispenser that does it with a pull of a lever, like a powder measure drum.
  3. I usually go with this one, but I have used the berger calculator to double check too. https://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmstab-5.1.cgi A lot of 1-10 precision guns use the FGMM 168 match king as their recommended load for factory bench marks. i.e. the LWRC REPR that I was playing with a few years ago. Arguably 168s are "over stabilized" in 1-10, but they seem to shoot well out of pretty much every 308, which is why they are so popular as a standard. I don't pretend to expertise, but I think of 165-170 in 308 /30-06 as the overlap load which is likely to give good results in a gun chosen at random, since they are right in the middle of the overlap between what the common twist rates are good at. I don't pretend to be a good precision shooter, though I am working to improve. My take on this topic is that for 308, if you are wanting the ability to shoot cheap ball, and also do some precision shooting, potentially using some of the ELD bullets, 1-10 will work well with the long range precision loads (& heavier hunting bullets), and well enough with the cheap stuff too.
  4. Wouldn't a 1-10 be better for that range? I thought 1-12 was more suited for 150-168grn
  5. Put a chunk of plastic pic rail on top of a baseball cap bill. Maybe a counterweight at the back.
  6. gunfun

    Slide fire?

    So a guy reading the article from TFB which basically recaps what I said months ago. It's a straight up ultra-vires action.
  7. Tulips are good once they get going. Look kinda crummy most of the year though, after the flowers are gone. Also you will need to know if your area freezes hard enough to kill the bulbs. Some places you can leave them out, other places you have to dig them up and stick them in the cellar for the winter.
  8. I always thought that using combination features would be a good idea. I.e. the berm would be the mound for a sweeper turn on a dirt bike track. The interior of the dirt bike track would be paintball course, with a fair amount of the jumps doing double duty as cover. The pond idea is nice, and would cut down on the area you need to brush hog. Unless you are in mosquito country. Perhaps some butterfly bushes to make it smell nice? I could also see wind break trees being a good idea. Also shade trees for wherever your bench/ firing line is. I agree with evl, that you don't want to add future ongoing chores, so only put in stuff that basically takes care of itself.
  9. gunfun


    I think that would be helpful. They aren't infallible, as what happens is the spammers will have a human teach their bots the answer, but they do weed out the less sophisticated spambots. Suggestion: What end of this picture is facing you? 1) muzzle 2) butt
  10. gunfun

    Knockdown power and pattern?

    1, "knock down power" is a very subjective and debatable thing. 2 for steel plates, there's muzzle velocity, shot weight, and pattern density. If any of those is lower, the plate is less likely to fall. If any is higher, then more likely. 3 a 19.5" barrel is going to be maybe 300 FPS lower than a 26" barrel with most light ammo. That's just a gunpowder thing. The action doesn't use enough gas to make a difference in velocity, and the shell is shucked after the shot is out of the barrel, so it also doesn't affect velocity there either. If you want more velocity, choose a spicier shell. It's that easy. You may prefer more mass though, so keep reading. 4. Chokes aren't all the same. Pattern yours https://www.chuckhawks.com/pattern_shotgun.htm You might have a wider pattern, and it might be offset from where you think you are aiming. Only way to know is to do the work and know. You haven't said what choke you are using, but there are a few adapters out there that let you have an assortment of either rem chokes or winchokes. I like the DPH choke adapter with full winchoke, but your application might want something tighter or looser. It's the combo of specific ammo and specific choke at the range you plan to shoot. 5. Easy fix is to try a couple of chokes that give you a reasonably dense pattern at the ranges you plan to shoot. Then chose a load with a little more pellets at about the same velocity. If you use 1 1 /4 oz loads at 1200 FPS, you will have a pretty good smack, and still less recoil than a lot of the other semi autos, and way less than the pumpers.
  11. If the bolt was upside down and /or grit held the firing pin in the forward position, it could have either slam fired on chambering, or fired without the lugs engaged?
  12. gunfun

    Howitzer70 brake

    First I have heard of it. I can say from the pictures that it isn't optimized for 12 Ga, but would probably do a little bit. If you look at the brake testing done by me, by Fitty, and Vadim, and T&N.... You notice that nearly all the gas vectoring stuff happens in the first inch past the muzzle. Lots of gills close together does the most After that inch, everything is working with so little gas pressure that it may as well not be there.
  13. The AK market is smaller: It used to be the tightwads, and those who had a mythical idealized view of Russian simplicity/durability/reliability. That latter group is very traditional, and posts stupid "nyet rifle is fine..." at EVERY improvement. Now ARs are way cheaper than AKs, and so the tightwads are gone. That leaves the traditionalists. You don't wow that crowd, you sell them old ideas done as conventionally as possible. (Or convince them that the Romy M10 with tapco furniture is the traditional formula because they don't know better.) The AK-103 has been around long enough to be "traditional", but is still seen as "High end". That justifies the higher cost of an american made AK.
  14. I was referring to CMMG's radial delayed AR bolt patent for PCC.
  15. There is a small difference. Blue printing is making the whole receiver precisely conform to the dimensions as claimed in the drawings. Since you can't add material, this is generally at the small end of the dimensional tolerance allowed. Truing would be a part of that, but not necessarily the whole thing. Generally truing means getting something straight or square. In the case of rifle truing, that's generally getting the barrel on axis with the reciever, and making sure it is fully supported by contact with all the bearing surfaces, which are also either concentric or perpendicular to the line of the bore. Usually also the bolt face and lugs. So you could get the areas that matter, and ignore the other spots. Possibly supporting contact with crooked metal by inletting the stock to fit, or using glass filled epoxy to match whatever irregular shape it happens to be.